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FrozenGate by Avery

Looking for a bit of help

532 with Envy

532 with Envy

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Jun 19, 2010
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I have been in the process of designing a custom host. The imaginative side of design has been no trouble, and with the help on my new digital caliper I am almost able to come up with somewhat coherent schematics.
I am, though, lacking somewhat in the technical end.....I'v run into trouble designing the power supply(battery) to the driver. Through my readings I'v seen case positive, case negative, insulated battery, and insulated diode(might have missed a couple).
In the builds I have seen through the forum many make use of parts from the flashlight that was striped apart. In this the end tail cap with clicker is used and more of interest to me is the other end. This usually seems to be a small circuit board with a spring.
I understand that there are many ways to skin a cat, but for a, from scratch, build perhaps someone could provide some handy tips and/or "pieces" I can incorporate into my builds.
Thanks for any insight
 





Sorry to do a bit of self promoting but have a look at this thread -

http://laserpointerforums.com/f38/scratch-built-8x-bluray-52887.html

There is a pic of the driver/module assembly that shows a case positive from the driver input.

With this particular build I was using a BR diode which I could've used a case pin, (polarity can be chosen for these), as a return path depending on the driver too.

The absolute choices can better be explained if you can tell us which diode and which driver you're using.

M
:)
 
thanks for the reply morgan. That is a nice build there and does show me some good pictures so I can see how others are doing it. The photo of the driver cup there is what I was after....this is the part that most use scraps from the flashlight they took apart.
As far as as the driver...a micro boost or micro flex I would think...My first build will prob have the LPC-815 for the diode, but i'd like to make one with the A140 at some point too
Thanks again for the link and great pics.....NICE JOB!
 
Well, the LPC diode is case negative, (see this thread - http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/diodes-compilation-all-diodes-data-one-thread-45042.html ), so you have to be aware of that when thinking about the build. For the Flexdrive, the manual shows various configuration depending on the case polarity, check here -

http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/Micro_BoostDrive.php

But for the MicroBoost there isn't a similar set of diagrams but there is a pic of how to use the case as a ground. This is the diagram -

http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/microboost-problem-54064.html#post761293

This is a thread -

http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/microboost-grounding-53982.html

I know there's another one floating about but I still have some questions about case grounding myself with the Microboost so have a dig yourself too.

M
:)
 
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Morgan said:
Well, the LPC diode is case positive so you have to be aware of that when thinking about the build. For the Flexdrive, the manual shows various configuration depending on the case polarity, check here -

http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_diode/Micro_BoostDrive.php

But for the MicroBoost there isn't a similar set of diagrams but there is a pic of how to use the case as a ground. This is the didagram -

http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/microboost-problem-54064.html#post761293

This is a thread -

http://laserpointerforums.com/f67/microboost-grounding-53982.html

I know there's another one floating about but I still have some questions about case grounding myself with the Microboost so have a dig yourself too.

M
:)
Click to expand...

Important correction to post above!!! I don't know where my head was at but of course the LPC diode is case NEGATIVE!!!! This was a schoolboy error and I hope not to have risked any of your precious diodes 532 with Envy!

I will edit the post above but I hope by leaving this one I show I don't claim infallibility!

{THE PREDEEDING POST HAS BEEN EDITED TO SHOW THE CORRECT INFORMATION. IF IN DOUBT THEN PLEASE SEE THE DIODE COMPILATION THREAD HERE - http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/diodes-compilation-all-diodes-data-one-thread-45042.html - THANK YOU.}

M
:)
 
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Envy,

IMHO (which Morgan is so fond of :D) as it is your first design project I would suggest keeping it simple, KISS if you will.

While positive case might have an advantage somewhere one only has to look at the automobile industry. The only thing positive ground was Lucas electronics on the Brit vehicles. Not ON/OFF it was DIM/FLICKER.

American auto makers use the frame as return ground while the Japanese use a ground wire to every connection.

I would suggest get a couple working hosts then look at the problems.

I've never liked the way the case is used for a ground. Way too many places for resistance to build and current to drop.

Thinking about how we used to connect aux lighting to off road trucks the first thing was to make direct connection to the battery with dedicated separate wiring. It eliminated the voltage drop of the trucks wiring and return path thru the frame.

My thought was that could flat ribbon cable, the kind encased in mylar be used for the connection from the end cap to the host body?

Think aerospace connections...

Since your reinventing the wheel, you have to look at every angle to save micro amps. Otherwise, just screw it together and hope it makes a good connection.

Hope this was not too far out there.

removed
 
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I actually saw a guy hook up a battery backyards in a old Harley once. Points ignition and the thing ran for like 2 miles before it died.
Took forever to realize the juice was wrong!

Got the right powder keg wired ib and vroom! Off to the races.

removed
 
Surprised it ran that long. I could have converted it to Negative Ground, but everything on it is designed for POS ground. Sides that's the way it supposed to be,
 
Well, 'ran' is a losely used term! lol

I had a Sunbeam Alpine back in the day that had the 'ol dim/flicker switch. Got it from a friend and fixed that and found a single carb intake. Thing ran like a top. So well that my friend doubled the price to get it back. Sure miss that thing.
 
The serial numbers for Engine, Transmission, and Frame all match the Birth Certificate. Not that many MG's left that are still married proper. You just have to pay close attention when working on a POS ground system, because it is real easy to forget that and hook something up incorrectly.
 
Ok so its been a bit, but here it is.
I ran into a bit of trouble and cant figure out what just happened. I got my LPC815 with a Rkcstr set at 420mA. I'm using a case negative setup so I soldered the negative off the driver to the inside of the housing, and the positive to a spring contact. I was very careful with all my soldering and even used heatshrink. Put it all together, put in my 18650 battery, clicked in on and Nothing!....turned it off right away...opened up the clicker end, it felt alittle warm, touched the spring.....and it Burned me!. I didnt have it on long, so hopefully I didnt cook anything.
If anyone could shed some light for me on this It would be helpful.
Thanks to all
 
sounds like maybe a frame short. can you get it to work outside of the frame?
 
yup worked fine outside. I soldered the wire pretty well to the housing. so does the spring getting hot at the click end mean that there is not negative connection or that perhaps the positive is contacting somewhere?
thanks for your help
 
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