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FrozenGate by Avery

Looking for a bit of help

I'm thinking because your not pulling (should not) enough current to heat the spring its a short to the case. That hot normally means dead short.

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Springs generally don't make effective fuses IMHO.

Seriously recheck all wiring and places were contact can occur with a meter to find the short
 
At one of my first electronic jobs the company used a bunch of heat sensitive mylar strips that changed color when you moved them over something hot to check for shorts.

I was hunting for a shorted chip one day and moved my strip over one and BAM!! Instant color change!

Thought to myself, 'self, I bet thats really hot. Lets check"

My poor thumb was screaming, "NOOOOOOOOOOOOO YOU DUMB A...." but too late.

And yes, gentile reader there is a chip in some landfill somewhere with my thumb print COOKED into it!

So yes, Coherent springs and silicon do not make for good fuses! hahaha

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Ok...so i took out the digital multi meter, hooked up a 9v battery...measured that set to V and it showed around 9v. I hooked up the wires to my aixiz and measured it again and its showing around 8.5v if I'm reading right. all this and no lasing(I might have cooked it).
This is all new to me...including the multi meter and I'm not sure i'm always reading it right.
Thanks for your help all.....Hopefully I dont have to add this one to my cooked diode bag!
Carl
 
If you check the continuity from the driver negative input and negative output to see if it's the same, you may be able to get away with losing one of your connections as I think RKCSTRs are common grounded.

Can you show a diagram or photo of the setup. I'm not too clear on how you've hooked everything up. It definitely sounds like a case short and I've had a similar experience with one of my early attempts, (all worked out fine in the end if that comforts you any!). What sort of switch? Clicky?

M
:)
 
I just hooked up my 18650....read 3.7v....hooked it up to the aixiz...no lasing and it read around 3.7v,,,not even a sputter or led effect.
 
Okay so here are some make-shift photos trying to explain my setup. I talked to my roommate who has some experience and he thinks that i may have had a bad negative connection that would create that heat at the tail end.
This may be, but im pretty sure i did a good job...and when I striped it apart, the positive connection to the spring was more than enough.
Here are a few pics, if they help explain where I went wrong.....
Once again thanks to everyone for the help.....I am really starting at zero, have done alot of reading to get to today, and am left in the dark:confused:(such is the learning process).

PositveandNegative.jpg
[/IMG]

Negativelead.jpg
[/IMG]

Positivecontact.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Where is You driver board. Were You trying to direct drive your diode with a battery???? Can You take a photo of the driver?
 
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I know, but We can't see if it is in anyway shorting to the module case. You are describing a dead short, and you need to check the whole current path to find the short. If It works out of the module as You said that's were I would expect the short to be.
 
Yup that is it....It was a short from the driver to the module case....Something had gotten twisted and one of the leads off the diode to the driver came loose....just as I unscrewed the module end I got a quick light up of the diode...hopefully not a cooking one but might have been.
 
Yes, great.

Got to watch those threaded connections with wires. Always problematic.
 


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