Re: Lava Micro FlexDrive Driver (lavadrive2) fits
Thanks for the feedback, everyone! Yep, follow the 'rule of thumb' on current/voltage conversion and you will be fine. There is a little headroom built into it.
The reason the 5-pin chip must be heatsunk in some cases when the driver gets hot isn't because that chip is dissipating a lot of heat, it's because when it gets hot (60C +) , it drifts and so your current setting will drift slightly higher. In most cases the driver won't get hot at all, but for the situations that it does, keep the 5-pin chip on the back cool with a heatsink and you'll be fine.
The size of this version is such that it's on the edge of what hobbyists can reliably solder to, so Right now it doesn't look likely that I'll try to shrink it more. Based on some solder-damaged units I've seen, here are a few pointers:
Don't:
1) when soldering to the bottom, don't slip and swipe off the tiny cap on the diode side!
2) when soldering on the top diode side -, make sure you don't make a solder bridge from the diode - to the top of the capacitor just behind it, this will cause a short and will probably break your driver.
3) use the wrong screwdriver for tuning current. You should not have to push down hardly at all. The tiny pot has a ceramic base that will crack if you do!
Do:
1) Use a sub-millimeter tip soldering pencil.
2) Use flux-core solder. I have seen solder applications that look like they were working with clay.
3) Use the right soldering temperature. 500F for lead, 550 for Silver based seems to work for me. Of course, lead solder just flows,wets, and works better.
4) Have a de-solding braid handy with a tin of flux to wet it with.
5) inspect your work when you are done, before applying power. Look for solder bridges, missing parts, reversed polarity.
Follow these and you should be fine!