Laser harp is operational!
Thanks to Dan and Craig in getting my kit to me in a timely manner...
I think that this is my first post! My passions are Music and electronics so the Laser Harp intrigued me years ago when I came across the JMJ You-Tube Video of the Laser Harp performance. Thankfully my research into building my own LH brought me to this site, and Dan's Controller, that eventually ended up in my instrument.
It has actually been working now for about 3 weeks and I'm finally getting to documenting my build. Hopefully some of my ideas will end up in other projects! I spent about 6-8 hours building and fine-tuning the build, and I spent at least that much time playing with it (especially this past Halloween).
Here's a list of the Parts (mostly from fleabay)...
- 150mW Green Laser Diode DIY DPSS Module + Power TTL from trilights.
- 20Kpps High Speed Galvo Scanner from te-lightings.
- Protection Goggles 532nm Green Laser Safety Glasses.
- techHood IR Filter Lens/High 532nm laser transmittance, (to filter possible dangerous IR radiation from laser).
- omegabob2 Optical Bandpass Filter, 528AF32, (9mm x 9mm, 2mm thick) (Placed over the Sensor detectors to protect against ambient light)
EDIT: see post 109 below for new information about not using filters over the sensors.
- Installed the components in 1/2 of a Hammond 1401P steel Enclosure with Aluminum custom cut/ bent front and rear panels. I cut a piece of frosted plexi and hinged it to the chassis to act as a cover.
- and of course the heart of the LH, Dan's controller kit available from illumination supply.
After carefully wiring everything, and meticulously mounting all of the components into the chassis, I added power. There was no smoke and the display came up LASER HARP V2.1...READY.
I had problems with triggering at first and stumbled onto the Blanking setting while pressing the footswitches. BLANKING has to be OFF for everything to work properly. You have to do this everytime you power-up the LH.
To turn BLANKING OFF:
Press Push button 2 - It will display BLANKING: ON
Press Push button 1 - It will display BLANKING: OFF
Press Push button 2 - It will display READY...
(Wait a few seconds between button presses otherwise they will not be accepted.)
EDIT: Due to Dan's firmware upgrade you can reliably use the LH with Blanking ON (see post 109 below for the new information) .
After a bit of time aligning the mirror and the spacing between the beams using the trimmers on the controller board, (with safety goggles on!), I was ready to go. I connected the MIDI OUT to a Roland SH-32 Synth, fired up my FOG-Machine and spent the first few hours, before bedtime, disturbing my dog with the sound as I played the HARP.
I did buy white gloves, but found that playing the LH using my bare hands was fine with my sensor set-up and 150mW output power was not enough for me to feel any heat.
NOTES:
I also fitted a small 24 VDC 40mm Fan to the top of the Galvo driver as the heatsink was getting hot...the fan blows through the heatsink and exhausts the hot air out some vent holes in the chassis bottom. Now the heatsink is cool! It is powered from the Galvo Power Supply.
Since I decided to use a 1/4" Stereo Cable to connect between the Sensor and the LH. I added a 1/4" Stereo Phone JACK for the Sensor on the rear panel. I also mounted an IEC power inlet with integrated FUSE.
I assembled the RUN/ BANK footswitches in an aluminum die-cast box, (yes, you guessed it, it's a Hammond!). I mounted 2 momentary foot switches and a Stereo 1/4" Phone Jack to allow connection to the LH using another standard 1/4" Stereo Cable.
On the front panel I mounted the MIDI OUT jack, the Sensitivity Pot, the Footswitch jack, the BANK LED and I parallelled the Footswitch Jack with panel mounted Push-buttons in case I forget to bring the Footswitch!
I mounted the sensor components into a Hammond 1591H Plastic box and mounted it on an old SANUS surround rear speaker stand that has a nice hinge to allow adjustment. The stand also places the Sensor about 36" above the ground and helps with reliable triggering. After I expoxied the 532nm Bandpass Filters directly to the sensors, I drilled three holes in the Plastic Box to expose the sensors.
Since I mounted my Laser to Fire from Right to Left, the LH notes played Low to High from Right to Left which is the opposite of a piano....I didn't want to get used to this and I didn't want to re-configure the chassis to switch the position of the laser, so, I reprogrammed the micro using my laptop connected to the LH Controller board through an Arduino experiment board. I reprogrammed the notes so that, when I play the LH, the notes are Low to High from Left to Right. The three Programs were programmed as follows...
BANK 1 RED Cmajor = OCTAVE 2 = C - D - E - F - G - A - B - C - D - E
BANK 2 GREEN Cmajor = OCTAVE 3 = C - D - E - F - G - A - B - C - D - E
BANK 3 BLUE Cminor = OCTAVE 3 = C - D - Eb - F - G - Ab - Bb - C - D - Eb
Word to the wise, when you mount your laser, make sure that it fires from Left to Right!
Here is a photo document of my build...enjoy
seeya
Joe