Introducing two new miniature drivers for portable lasers

[ossumguywill]

Thermal padding is also cheap and works well, plus is not electrically conductive.

 

[Federico]

Alright, so here are the images of how my build would look like, sorta, I'm still missing the cooling fan, and the laser diode obviously.
http://img186.imageshack.us/i/imagen261w.jpg/
So this is the main body, where the Aixiz module is located, I will put on top of the module, a DC fan, in order to keep the diode as cool as possible, I've heard this things get pretty hot! How hot? I don't know...
Imageshack - imagen260.jpg
This picture here, shows how I"m planning on putting the driver, I know it fits perfectly in the module, but I"m pretty sure it won't make much contact with any surface, which will make it very hot. I guess I"m going to follow you guy's advice and put some termal paste beneath it, and that should do the trick.

So my build consists of the Heatsink(Aluminum, but very big), Groove2 Driver, PHR Diode, Aixiz module and the DC fan. Is there anything I should add???

Thanks a lot,
Federico:yh:

Edit: If anyone could teach how to put the images on the scree, without being giant! It'd be very much appreciated.

 

[iknitsteel]

Just to clarify when the battery goes dead the driver blinks correct? Because My blinked on me and the host doesnt seem hot like it normally does when I leave it on long so it doesnt look like thermal shutdown

Thanks,
Justin

 

[laserboystuart]

Just to clarify when the battery goes dead the driver blinks correct? Because My blinked on me and the host doesnt seem hot like it normally does when I leave it on long so it doesnt look like thermal shutdown

Thanks,
Justin

yes the laser starts to flicker when the batteries going dead, mine flickered faster and faster until it eventually turned itself off from a dead batt.

stuart

 

[AUTO XX]

Not trying to hijack the thread and this may be a noob question but here goes.
How do you adjust the voltage on the microboost?
Soldering bridges to adjust the range= no problems
I'll be powering a 1w 445nm LD @ around 500-600mA with 2 flat "li-po" packs (7.4V, 800mAh) in parallel so I have to use (3) 1n4001diodes to drop the input voltage (to 5.3V) correct?

Loving the site, loving the hobby (only been learning about this for about 3 days), and the collected knowledge of this forum is astounding. I haven't slept in 3 days, too much going on in the old coconut.

Also: Is there any way to use paypal to buy the microboost? I don't feel like giving my card info to make a google account. (The google company grew too big, too fast to be legitimate) ^_^

 

[ossumguywill]

You really don't want to waste all that energy by dropping the voltage over a bunch of diodes.... You would be decreasing the efficiency by like 30%, and the diodes might overheat at that current. Plus, the flexdrive takes up to 6v input, which would be a better choice for your situation for the same price. If you can, avoid using 7.4v LiPos. Also, the voltage on a 7.4v lipo can jump up to 8.4v on a full charge IIRC. We typically use 3.7v Li-Ion batteries here, but I think a 3.7v lipo would work as well.

 

[AUTO XX]

Good points, looks like I'll have to invest in the li-Ions. You would just be hooking the 3.7s parallel? Or in series and using 2 diodes?
How do you adjust the voltage on the microboost?

 

[ossumguywill]

Good points, looks like I'll have to invest in the li-Ions. You would just be hooking the 3.7s parallel? Or in series and using 2 diodes?
How do you adjust the voltage on the microboost?

You can use lipos too, just not 7.4v lipos. They sell 3.7v lipos, right? And usually hooking batteries in parallel is a bad idea because they might have different specs, but in this case hooking them in series is worse because of the wasted voltage... I would recommend a single good battery. Also, you don't adjust the voltage on a microboost... You adjust the current. The microboost then changes the output voltage so that it meets that current, that's the whole point of a driver.

 

[AUTO XX]

Alright, thanks for the info. I had read a thread that someone was adding another L317 (and a pot I think) to a DIY board specifically so he could regulate voltage separately.
If it won't blow the diode/driver then I am happy, better to ask then to reorder
Already have TrustFire Protected 18650 3.7V True 2400mAh Rechargeable Lithium Batteries (2-Pack) plus a charger ordered

 

[ossumguywill]

Yes, LM317 drivers CAN do voltage regulation, but constant-current drivers are better for lasers than constant-voltage.

 

[Aaron]

What voltage would a MicroBoost output at ~120ma with an input voltage of 3.7 volts?

 

[Flaminpyro]

I'll check that for you be right back, OK with 120.0ma I get 4.73 volts to the diode !

Also I have never set this jumper befor on a Microboost has any one else ?
Damn it's realy hard to do the parts that need to be soldered together are very very small and in between two other parts that you can connect to !
I would find this scarry to do if I had not been doing this kind of thing for so long, I'm a bit supprised at this but I guess it was the only option for setting the output :thinking:

Peace All.

What voltage would a MicroBoost output at ~120ma with an input voltage of 3.7 volts?

 

[Aaron]

Thanks

 

[AUTO XX]

I set the jumper a couple of days ago, I used an alligator clip on the part I was bridging to just in case I got it hot enough to melt the solder on the other side. I was only doing the 390-750mA range so it was easy.

If you tip the board so that gravity will hold the molten solder where you want it, you can do the job in a lot less time/tries.
Most of the smd components are pretty tough but less heat is always better.

*edit* a piece of pre-tinned wire, cut to the length you need makes bridging easier. If it is a short span, no worries but without the wire the surface tension of the solder can work against you if you need to span a larger gap.