hakzaw1
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- Apr 2, 2009
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You will find this info and much more doing a LPF search and by taking a long look at Sams- BUT before you buy ANYTHING know this(some of which I found out the hard way) most argons are heavy or heavier(much $ to ship -so buy locally) they nearly all need forced air cooling or water(even more tricky)- most must have a controller interface to turn them up or in some cases even idle. OR You can buy a nice (controller) one for 175+$ or more or make one or build a 'cheater' bypass with or without a pot that will allow you to turn up the mWs. Small jumper wires can allow you to bypass the interface, if you know where to put them. If you live in the US and do not have access to 200vac you need to stick to the 110 volt models= - (often hidden in the 'small print' on FeeBay) too much work to convet them. One of the most desirble models is the 'gold' PS as it goes both ways(uniphase 2114 P ). if you see Untested -sold as-is usually means it will be doa or nearly especially if they actually have a way to test it i.e. they are selling both the head and the PS together or seperately.. I will rely on Dave, Chris L., diachi and electroF to edit/correct this info and they are the go-to guys AFTER you do your own homework. The controller in the second photo was 99$ from houston- the case was homemade- it has places to put your DMM to get readings. EDIT I just read this from Chris L ( ' Why not get the whole psu, the 2114 power supply can be changed to 110V use with a screw driver and 10 minutes of time )--So I guess I got some wrong info a few years back on converting a argon PS to 110volts- thought it was reliable info-good news for me as i have two high voltage ones that are worth more than I thought in the US.==hak
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