How to set up the Flexmod P3 for a handheld laser

[Serac]

I just noticed in this he said to use a 10K resistor and I used a 1 Ohm resistor. I wonder if this will screw it up?:thinking:

:undecided:
Sorry maybe this is asking too much, but in case others only read the first post in this thread, would you mind editing the original post so it shows this?

 

[DTR]

:undecided:
Sorry maybe this is asking too much, but in case others only read the first post in this thread, would you mind editing the original post so it shows this?

I did PM drlava about the resistor and he said a 1 Ohm is fine as long as you stay around 12V or under. So it was fine.:beer:

 

[Milos]

So, is 1.5 K Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor for jumping M+ and V+ as stated in first post final word from DrLava ? Does it not matter if its 1OHM or 1.5KOhm ??!! That's huge difference. How can it not matter.

I can't seem to reach him via PM.

best regards

 

[DTR]

So, is 1.5 K Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor for jumping M+ and V+ as stated in first post final word from DrLava ? Does it not matter if its 1OHM or 1.5KOhm ??!! That's huge difference. How can it not matter.

I can't seem to reach him via PM.

best regards

Depends on voltage from the batteries. I think it was anything under 8V could just have the M+ and V+ bridged with no resistor and anything 12V and under needs 1.5KOhm resistor. I actually prefer to use a LM7805 5V regulator on them like I did in the Frankenstein build. It guarantees exactly 5V and since there is very little current going to the modulation input it will not need to be sinked. Take the very bottom of the pins on the regulator and bend them up and they will fit right into the three holes for M+ V+ and G from the bottom side of the P3 and the regulator will be parallel and flat against the bottom of the P3.:beer:

I will put up a picture when I get home.

 

[Milos]

Depends on voltage from the batteries. I think it was anything under 8V could just have the M+ and V+ bridged with no resistor and anything 12V and under needs 1.5KOhm resistor. I actually prefer to use a LM7805 5V regulator on them like I did in the Frankenstein build. It guarantees exactly 5V and since there is very little current going to the modulation input it will not need to be sinked. Take the very bottom of the pins on the regulator and bend them up and they will fit right into the three holes for M+ V+ and G from the bottom side of the P3 and the regulator will be parallel and flat against the bottom of the P3.:beer:

I will put up a picture when I get home.

I will be using two 32600 3.7V batteries resulting in 7.5-8.5V on the input of P3. I happened to have 1.5 K Ohm 1/2W resistors at work. Any idea if using them is fine, or what effect it would be with these batteries versus just jumping M+ and V+ with wire ?

thanks

 

[DTR]

I know Jay has talked with drlava several times about this in development of his Mag kit. Maybe he can weigh in.

 

[jayrob]

I spoke to drlava direct on the phone to make sure I would be setting up the FlexModP3 properly...

He told me that if you have less than 11 volts supply, then you do not need a resistor at all. Just a wire to bridge across.

But if over 11 volts. You could use (he gave a specific Ohm but I forgot because we came to the following...)

I then told him that I wanted to use a resistor that would be fine for either set up to avoid confusion. (2 X Li-Ion vs 3 X Li-Ion)

That's when he told me that the 1.5 K Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor would be suitable for either set up. And I have been setting them up like that.

The driver works perfectly with either supply. I love the FlexModP3. It adjusts so smooth... 1/2 turn on the gain equals about 100mA's. It's an awesome driver if you have the room for it! Check this thread! (shameless plug)

I have a Word document in that thread linked, so you can print it out. It shows the basic set up of the FlexModP3. It's just a one page condensed version of what DTR shows in this thread...

 

[DTR]

Thanks for the clarification Jay.:beer:

Added to OP. With shameless plug

 

[Milos]

hmm, ok
Thanks Jayrob

I asked this to DrLava already, but no response yet.

DTR wrote:
"You need to get a 1.5 K Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor which will be used to bridge the V+ and the M+. The M+ is the modulation input that can be used to adjust the current while in use. We will not be needing to adjust it in this manner so we will use the 1.5 K Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor to wire it in an always on full power mode."

This sounds a lot like Diode power output adjustment while laser is on, but it is not. As if trimmer pot could be inserted there.
Can anyone suggest example of how to utilize this M+ input. It could help understand better how to bypass it.

thanks

 

[DTR]

This sounds a lot like Diode power output adjustment while laser is on, but it is not. As if trimmer pot could be inserted there.
Can anyone suggest example of how to utilize this M+ input. It could help understand better how to bypass it.

thanks

Electronics is not my strong suite so I am always glad to make any corrections if there is inaccurate information.

Here is the PDF that may help if you have not seen it.
http://hacylon.case.edu/laser/FlexModP3/FlexModP3_Manual.pdf

 

[Milos]

Electronics is not my strong suite so I am always glad to make any corrections if there is inaccurate information.

Here is the PDF that may help if you have not seen it.
http://hacylon.case.edu/laser/FlexModP3/FlexModP3_Manual.pdf

obviously mine either )
Please don't take this as critic, it is likely my lack of understanding too.

This thread is great and i think it should stay as reference, and compilation of info for this driver. I just wish DrLava could chip in. It is a great driver. I like to know more about device i use.

after all, every new post on this thread will help popularize and sell this great design.

cheers

 

[DTR]

obviously mine either )
Please don't take this as critic, it is likely my lack of understanding too.

This thread is great and i think it should stay as reference, and compilation of info for this driver. I just wish DrLava could chip in. It is a great driver. I like to know more about device i use.

after all, every new post on this thread will help popularize and sell this great design.

cheers

I did have a few emails with him the other day. He is very busy working on some projector stuff at the moment and has not had time to check his messages over here. He also said his development of the V6's has been put on the shelf for the moment until he finishes up the other projects that he is working on.

This is a great driver especially now that the 445 are out there and everyone is looking for a way to power them to high levels. It has many built in safety features that protect your diode. I remember when I first started telling some members that I wont name that I was planning on building a laser with this driver and they thought I was nuts to put this thing in a hand held.:na:

 

[Zillah]

VERY nicely done. This cleared up a lot for me in how to use my atx12v as a power source. if you still have any of these p3's left for sale, please PM me as i would like one along with the 455LD

+1:thanks::thanks:

 

[DTR]

PM sent.

 

[Milos]

straight from DrLava:

Originally Posted by drlava
Hi, modulation M+ is an analog input for remote control of the diode brightness. Typically used in laser projectors, this allows a control system to blank the laser while operating, and 0 to 5V is a standard range. for DTR's application, he doesn't care about blanking, he just wants it ON and in that case uses a pull-up resistor on the M+ to turn it ON (5V or greater). Internally the driver limits the output as if it were only getting 5V on the input, and then the output current is set with the 'gain' setting. so exactly 1.5k isn't critical.


the 0.2 ohm resistor is a precision current-sensing resistor for control feedback.
Regards,
Andrew

cheers

 

[DarkSide]

Boy, that was helpfull! DTR & Search, Thank You.

Cant make an easier driver tutorial than this folks. Almost easy...:thanks: