Also, check out my new 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Modification! Awesome!

http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-1000-lumen-xm-l-t6-maglite-modification-kit-parts-complete-flashlight-59581.html







The idea for doing a kit using a FlexModP3 driver with the larger Li-Ion batteries, was inspired by DTR...

However, the P3's may not be available these days. I'm going to leave the information in the thread, but for now, I am recommending the X-Drive buck driver from lazeerer. (super efficient buck driver)

For a 445 build, you can get your diode pre-installed into an AixiZ module with lead wires soldered on from DTR or daguin. (linked below in pricing)

In that case, you will just connect your diode leads, to my driver leads... ('Hot' option kit)







Note: X-Drive Buck driver option as well! Nice stable and efficient buck driver from lazeerer... (see below) there is also room for my voltage monitor shown for my 1000 lumen Mag Flashlight Mod...







Single battery 'Stubby' also shown below...

Note: Voltage monitor option for Stubby build as well! (FlexDrive or X-Boost)







Proper eye protection needed: Just a warning. (In case you may be a beginner) Read up on proper eye protection... Here are some good protective glasses for 445nm:
ARG - Blu Ray, Argon, Blue, KTP [NR-ARG-EN207] - $80.50



Note: I do not sell complete lasers. My kits do not include laser diodes or laser modules. You must buy your own laser diode to complete the assembly. (This kit has a 'Hot' option for the driver installed and current set. Your diode can be installed in less than 5 minutes)




Shown below, are a few different options for this host!

Depending on whether you want to use 2 X Li-Ions with a X-Drive buck driver (or FlexModP3 if available), or perhaps you may want to use 2 X V5 FlexDrives in parallel, powered by a single (large capacity) Li-Ion... (See Mag D 'Stubby' below)




Maglite 2 D modification:

Here's a quote from DTR on this Maglite kit, and his review of the build:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f52/1-9w-jayrob-2d-mag-host-58470.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by DTR I have run it for 10 minutes and it was handling the heat like no other I have seen. The heatsink was warm but not that bad. It will run longer than anyone could possibly want to run it at a time...

My 2 D Maglite kit will be an awesome setup for a 445 build using a FlexModP3 driver... (But the X-Drive is more efficient... IMO)

Using the FlexModP3 driver, and 2 X 32600 Li-Ion batteries. (make sure you find the 3.6/4.2 volt ones - not the 3 volt ones) Or, 2 X 26650's with my custom sleeve and tail cap/spring mod shown below...




More on the FlexModP3 (if available)

Using the FlexModP3 driver, the 2 X (large capacity) Li-Ion set up is best for a monster 445 build, because there is not going to be as much extra supply voltage heating up the driver...

The FlexModP3 driver will deliver up to 4 Amps of current if desired. (obviously not needed with any diode we currently have)

The driver requires 1.5 volts above diode demand for the supply voltage.

So if your 445 diode is pushed to the max, and demanding about 4.5 volts, then you need a minimum of 6 volts for your supply. Anything more than that, will be transferred into excess heat to the driver.

Even when the batteries are drained to the point of needing to be charged, you will have 6 volts, and the driver will remain in the regulated setting...

So this is why 2 X 3.6/4.2 volt Li-Ion (large capacity cells with high current available) is the best set up...





This build will perform the same as DTR's Frankenstein build shown here: (diode efficiency will vary)
2W 445 DTR Frankenstein Ultrafire RL-2088 Handheld Host




You won't be needing to upgrade for a while with this FlexModP3 build! It will put out up to 4 Amps with this set up! ... Phew!

* I have Feilong 6000mAh 32650's available here (the best IMO)

They will fit perfectly in a Maglite 2 D host. So that's the ticket for a Maglite 2 D with FlexModP3, and 2 X 32600 Li-Ion's... (driver set up details shown below)

Now if you already have 26650's, not to worry! Because 2 X 26650's will work great with my fiberglass sleeve, and simple tail cap/spring modification!


Charger:
If you don't want to mess with magnets and spacers while charging, you will need this charger:
Ultrafire WF-188 Charger for 14500 / 17500 / 18500 / 18650 / RCR123 3.7 volt Lithium Battery Charger

Note: Get your charger from a reputable source and make sure it comes brand new in the blue box. Otherwise it probably won't work properly. (I have tested maybe 20 of the WF-188 chargers)




Switch prep:

If you would like to see more detail on the switch mod, see my Maglite P7 flashlight modification here:
Easy Maglite P7 Mod! Nice...











Battery prep:









Maglite Massive heatsink for the module and FlexModP3 driver:

The huge heatsink will be plenty of mass for both the module, as well as the driver...







Maglite 2 D 26650 sleeve and tail cap/spring mod:

The modification shown here is in case you can't get the 32600 Li-Ion batteries in 3.6/4.2 voltage.

The tail cap just needs to have the anodized inside surface machined to bare metal for contact to the spring...






As shown in this comparison picture, the length of the 32600's that I have, are longer than a standard D size battery. And the tail cap mod above is best for these. As well as for the 26650's with sleeve. (IMO)

But the non-modified stock tail cap and spring position will still work with 32600's. It's just a really tight press on the spring...







FlexModP3 'Hot' option:

The 'Hot' option means that the driver is included, set up, installed, current set, and lead wires soldered on ready for your diode. (without the 'Hot' option, you will get your own driver, and do the install)

The FlexModP3 driver is excellent! It is so superbly smooth! It adjusts pretty much 100mA's per 1/2 turn. Very constant and stable output!

It is large though, so you need a good size host for it. It is also not cheap. The driver alone will cost over $40 bucks. But worth it!

Here's the documentation for the FlexModP3:
http://hacylon.case.edu/laser/FlexMo...dP3_Manual.pdf









'Hot' option assembly tips: (FlexModP3)

Easy install! It can be done in about 5 minutes...

If you get the 'Hot' option, the FlexModP3 driver will be set up, and ready to go. The current will be set at your requested output. (see below for set up details of this driver)

Tools needed:
* 1.5mm Allen wrench for the module set screw
* 2.5mm Allen wrench for the driver heatsink set screw

With the 'Hot' option kit, the FlexModP3 driver current will be adjusted to the setting that you request, and be ready for the diode.

In order to install the diode, you will have to first remove the driver from the heatsink. (easy to do - there is a set screw that takes a 2.5mm Allen wrench) I will include the set screw, but the wrench is not included.

You will be using only the front 'business end' of the AixiZ module...

Then solder your diode/module on, and put the module, with driver back onto the heatsink. It can be done in 5 minutes...

All you need to do is make sure the driver is centered. As shown in the pictures above!

If you feel that the driver could possible make contact with the host, it may be wise to wrap the driver with some thin tape. Even scotch tape will work. There’s not a lot of room for thick tape with a Maglite C host. But the Maglite D host has plenty of room…

Then connect the driver leads, to the host leads using heat shrink tubing to insulate the solder joints.

And finally, just carefully set the assembly in place, and screw the retaining ring on. Making sure that the heatsink does not ‘twist’. (wires)






Setting up your own FlexModP3 driver:

If you want to set up your own FlexModP3 driver, DTR has a tutorial shown here:
How to set up the Flexmod P3 for a handheld laser

There was a little confusion on exactly what resistor to use for the V+ to Mod+ jumper, so I contacted drlava, and told him that I wanted to use a resistor that would allow either 2 X Li-Ion's, or 3 X Li-Ion's to be used. (just to avoid confusion, and set it up the same way for either build)

So that's why I use a 1.5 K Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor for this jumper...

And if you want to just print out my Word document showing the procedure, here's the file: (I borrowed a couple of pictures from DTR and put labels on them, plus a picture of my own as well)

It's about a 4MB file, so it may take a minute to download:
http://www.sonic.net/~jayrob/FlexModP3 Setup.doc






Here's a cool accessory that can be easily attached to any D size Maglite: (Excimer found this and showed it to me)

It is milled from 6061 aluminum...



I bought one just because it was cheap... And I wanted to see how it feels. It's a high quality CNC machined assembly! The trigger is really nice! I took a short video just to show how the trigger mechanism works. Mounted on a 2 D Maglite: (No laser built into this light, just showing the trigger)



The trigger is a momentary on as you pull it. Or you can push it forward for constant on.

Don't knock it till you have tried it! A laser on a trigger is an amazing feeling...

You can get one for $39 bucks here:
litegrip15.com - Lite Grip 15 for Mag Lite?





Maglite 2 D color choices:

The kit pricing is shown below, and the Maglite 2 D hosts will be available in these colors: (or send me your Maglite)









X-Drive buck driver 'Hot' option: With the X-Drive, there is also room for my voltage monitor shown for my 1000 lumen Mag Flashlight Mod...

Note: Voltage monitor option as well for the Stubby build! (FlexDrive or X-Boost)

As an option for the 2 cell build, the X-Drive is a great choice for a very efficient buck driver for less than the cost of the FlexModP3 'Hot' option. (or if the FlexModP3 is not available at the moment)

The X-Drive buck driver is more efficient. I have them in 1.8 Amp, and 2.1 Amp settings...

I have 1.8 Amp, and 2.1 Amp X-Drives on hand...

* X-Drive 'Hot' option - $53 (thermal glued inside top barrel of host)



I recommend staying to a 1 or 2 minute duty. (same for the P3)

I'm sure it would probably go much longer, but it's a good rule of thumb to get into the habit of using a conservative duty cycle...







Key Switch:

I need to ask $35 for the key switch mod shown below...

If I found an easier way to make it work, then I could do it for less. But with the material I used, I had to machine the tail cap out to fit the fiberglass piece. Which was needed to isolate the spring from the tail cap. Then make the bottom plate as well. (plus the cost of the key switch)












Custom set up:

If you want a key switch wired to activate an LED, then I can set that up so that the key switch lights the LED when the laser is armed, but the laser won't turn on until you then hit the side button.

With the 2 cell build, or the Stubby version, you can use my voltage monitor set up shown in my 1000 lumen Mag thread:
FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Light!

* Blue - full
* Cyan - very good
* Green - good
* Yellow - low
* Red (or flashing red) - time to charge







If you wanted both the key switch, as well as the voltage monitor, then I could wire the voltage monitor to come on with the key switch. And it would also 'arm' the laser so that it will then be able to turn on with the side button.

The voltage monitor LED changes colors to let you know your battery voltage - blue is full, cyan very good, green good, yellow low, red means charge - and doubles as an 'armed' indicator light)

With a voltage monitor, you will not have room for the FlexModP3, but you can easily have a 1.8 Amp (or even a 2.1 Amp) build using the X-drive that I stock from lazeerer. (nice buck driver)

I have them available.

I have Feilong 6000mAh 32650 Li-Ion cells available as well!





Pricing:


Full Blown Mag Kit (with all the bells and whistles)

Ok couple things... (save this information to refer to)

First, I offer my 405-G-1 glass lens, which is the same lens as DTR's G2, but a different mount. My mount is better, but cost maybe a few bucks more because of it being more difficult to make.

However, it is cheaper in the long run, because I will polish the face of the heatsink at no charge if you get a kit with the 405-G-1.

Normally I charge an extra $10 bucks to polish the heatsink. But no charge with a 405-G-1 lens.

About the batteries. The Feilong cells are the way to go for sure hands down. Just way better batteries. I have them on hand, and will price them in the list. If you do not need them (or charger), just subtract from the list...

You don't need to worry about non protected if you also get the voltage monitor that will warn you when it is time to charge the cells.

So, for the max power, go with a 9mm diode. I'll give you the link to the exact diode you need:

You can get your 9mm 445 diode pre-installed into an copper module with lead wires soldered on here:
Nichia NDB7875 445nm 9mm Laser Diode in A Copper Module with Leads Glass Lens | eBay

In that case, you will just solder your diode leads, to my driver leads.

Note: You will not be using the back 'barrel' part of the AixiZ module. Just the front 'business end'. Also, you will not need the 3rd wire with my 'Hot' option. (diode case pin not used)

About the driver. I am using the super efficient X-Drive buck driver these days.

I have 1.8 Amp, and 2.1 Amp on hand. Some people are pushing the 9mm diodes to 2.1 Amps, but I would still recommend 1.8 for best longevity.

So if your going for 2.1 Amps, get the 9mm diode linked above. But if your going for 1.8 Amps, you will be fine with the M-140 diode linked here:
2W 445nm M140 Blue Laser Diode in Copper Module w Leads | eBay

That said, there is still no telling how long the diode will last at 1.8 Amps either.

So let me know 1.8 or 2.1...

Depending on diode efficiency:
1.8 Amps with 405-G-1 glass lens will be between 1.8 Watts and 2 Watts. (M-140 diode)
2.1 Amps with 405-G-1 glass lens will be between 2.1 Watts and 2.6 Watts. (9mm diode)

Here's the total list: (All the bells and whistles minus diode)

Key switch and voltage monitor are options that can be added. (you can get just the voltage monitor, or just the key switch, or both)

Batteries and charger too... (you can just subtract from the total if there is something listed that you do not need)

* Maglite 2 D host – $29 (let me know choice of color)
* Massive heatsink - $38
* Polish heatsink (No charge with 405-G-1 glass lens)
* Prep host (switch) with lead wires - $10
* X-Drive 'Hot' option thermal glued inside top barrel of host - $53 (specify 1.8 or 2.1 Amps)
* 405-G-1 glass lens - $55
* Key switch - $35
* Voltage monitor - $58 (also wired to come on with key switch - double as 'armed indicator' light)
* 2 X Feilong 6000mAh 32650 Li-Ion cells – $55
* WF-188 charger – $37
* Shipping will be based on your location and your payment method (PM for total)

The only problem is, I normally have a back log of orders that I am filling per 'date paid' to be fair to everybody. I am usually about 10 days out on shipping of new orders.

If you can be patient, you will not be disappointed with the build…

You can read any one of my threads to see that I am a trusted seller. For example, in the case of my 1000 lumen Maglite flashlight mod, please take a few minutes to read some of the buyer feedback that I have listed here: (and also see that I am a trusted seller)
FS: 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Mod With Voltage Monitor - Parts, or Complete Light!

Gnarly!














Another option for these!...



Maglite D 'Stubby'

Here's a cool little mod that I did for setting up a large capacity single Li-Ion Maglite...







This will be great for a single (or dual) FlexDrive set up! (or X-Boost)



There is plenty of room inside the head to mount the driver (or drivers), heatsinked to the back side of the main sink...




Pricing for basic 'Stubby' kit:

* Maglite 2 D host - $29 (or send me your Maglite - any D size Maglite can be cut down)
* Massive heatsink - $38
* V5 FlexDrive (or X-Boost) 'Hot' option which also includes the driver heatsink/mount - $58 (let me know what current setting)
* Prep host (switch) with lead wires - $10
* Fiberglass sleeve for 26650 if needed - $7
* Re-size the host as shown above - $18
* Voltage monitor installed - $58










Maglite Flashlight Mod:

I have a nice flashlight mod for this too!
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs...ght-59581.html

Any modifications done to the light itself?

Just to the switch... (the picture shows now)

The switch assembly has a long bulb mount that needs to get cut off to make room.

The assembly has to come out to do the modification. Then solder on lead wires to the contacts, and re-assemble...

Ah, just like with most LED mods, nice.

Nice. Can't wait to see the 2 C mag light. I have one on order myself.

And if there is not room for the FlexModP3 driver in the 2 C Maglite, then it will most likely fit in a 2 D...

In that case, I can fit 2 X 26650's. There is room in the tail cap. The I.D. of the tail cap is just over 26mm's.

I have some fiberglass tubing that is perfectly sized for a battery sleeve in case I need to go the 2 D Maglite with 2 X 26650 route...

Edit: And DTR just showed me these batteries:
http://www.bestofferbuy.com/32600-37...l-p-14496.html

Which will fit perfectly in a Maglite 2 D host. So that's the ticket for a Maglite 2 D with FlexModP3...

Thanks for the find DTR!

Nice, I have the same light pictured sitting here. I'm thinking modified Frankenstein in the Mag host. Looks like there is room. No way I would use regular D cells though.

Edit- Jayrob basically just said everything I was thinking lol.

I would think we should be good for size.

Jay I hope DTR is on your Christmas card list.

DTR is a building machine!



For sure on the battery length... (nice picture comparison by the way)

Not completely sure on the diameter of the 26mm in the 2 C maglite yet... (hopefully)

Need to see how the FlexModP3 will fit as well...

Hope it works out! Because it is a really nice forward clicky side button set up with plenty of mass for the heatsink...

Has anyone created a handheld that combines the beams of multiple diodes yet? That should be next on your list, DTR, 3 Frankensteins in one host

Yeah he's probably already trying to find the right dichros to try something like that...

Jayrob, you have outdone yourself on the 4D maglite. It's incredible! I can't wait!

I shipped today. (Thursday)

I think your going to like it!

If you don't have this charger for those massive batteries:
Ultrafire WF-188 Charger for 14500 / 17500 / 18500 / 18650 / RCR123 3.7 volt Lithium Battery Charger

... I recommend getting it. It can fit those large diameter 26650's.

Already ordered the charger

Hmm, I just editd my signature and it's not showing up? Oh there it is!

Maglite 4D comming soon

I'm sure you'll like it!

But remember that 1.6 Amps is definitely pushing these diodes...

Seems they are so tough though! DTR just hammer's his diodes with super long run times at high current, and they seem to keep putting out the same power. Wow...

I believe heat is usually the issue, your massive heatsinks mitigate this. But I'm just speaking from a general electronics standpoint. Just my noob opinion.

The massive heatsinking will help yes, but these diodes will stop lasing around 2 Amps from a couple of different testers experience.

Most are running them at about 1 Amp...

This driver setup will be a very stable. I have it at 1.6 Amps per your request. It can be turned up as much as the diode will take and more. But the efficiency drops off fast over this current setting.

It is definitely at the max, or near max. How long they can handle it, is yet to be discovered. But it's a relatively cheap diode! (actually a very expensive diode, but we are getting them cheap)

daguin is shipping the 445nm diode (pressed with leads) to me today, should get it tomorrow as we live about 40 miles (give or take a few) from each other.

NICE!

Oh by the way, I've been thinking about putting a little Arctic silver between the module and the heatsink, what's your take on that Jayrob.

I've never used it, but I'm sure a little will not hurt...

As long as it doesn't end up working it's way onto the diode. That would not be good...

Cool, i'll probably screw around with the paste to find the proper amount to put on before attempting it.

The last time I used thermal paste for anything was years ago when I built a PC for someone

Haven't had time to do a review yet, but here is a typical burning video I made, using the AixiZ 445 lens

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JXL3E6k2i94

Phew! That baby burns...

I see that you like the option for a momentary 'on'...

Do you like the battery sleeve?