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FrozenGate by Avery

guide to build laser inside 510 module !






3DLaSeRBuiLDeR said:
Can anyone tell me where I can find a complete guide to module 510 ?
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You will have to be more specific --- identify specifically what module 510 and what you want to know.

Post a link to a web site showing a module 510 that you are wanting a guide to.
 
The 510 modules are straight forward and easy, Here are some pics of some that i make,The ground wire is in the set screw on the bottom of the 510

Rich:)
 

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badboybilly said:
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/22mm-510-threaded-modules



12mm modules slide straight into these, sold already hooked up with diode and driver if you ask Jordan, and screw straight on your 510 vapes, if that is what you were after!


Actually they used to come with there 510 adapters not sure why there not complete!
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He didn't want to get into any legal issues with all of the regulations that were put on the vaping industry.

Searching the forum also leads to a few mentions of "510 adapter for 3d RDA tank" however I also remember someone coming across a few that did NOT work as the threads would not grab the threads on thew 510 module that DTR sells.
 
I had found some adapters, but like most all the current adapters available now, they have a different thread than the ones DTR used on his 22mm aluminum heatsinks.
IIRC, the originals were available at Fasttech, but have not been available for some time now.

The "new" type adapters have a coarser thread than the original units. You can use them with a modified 22mm adapter, like I did in this thread -Link-, or you can use them with a whole new 22mm adapter such as Lifetime 17 is making. :yh:
 
Hi,
Yes as Bowtie said the threads are different then the DTR 22mm mods. When he made his workable and i seen his post i said great machining . Well that planted a seed and i went a bought the tooling for the back 510 connector . It is a very coarse thread but it can be done with a newly machined 510 heat sink.

Rich:)
 
Lifetime17 said:
Hi,
Yes as Bowtie said the threads are different then the DTR 22mm mods. When he made his workable and i seen his post i said great machining . Well that planted a seed and i went a bought the tooling for the back 510 connector . It is a very coarse thread but it can be done with a newly machined 510 heat sink.

Rich:)
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Rich I'm curious how you are using the grub screw to secure the neg lead. I tried to use it with the grub screw but it sheared the wire as expected. Maybe another small drill hole perpendicular to the grub screw hole at the bottom of the threading would make it easier. For now I strip enough insulation off and fold up the wire jam it in there and put the grub screw aside.
 
Not sure how that screw works, but have you tried a wire-able washer, like the ones that have a small hole that the wire could be soldered to the side of the washer? If the screw isn't countersunk it ought to work.
 
dden4012 said:
Rich I'm curious how you are using the grub screw to secure the neg lead. I tried to use it with the grub screw but it sheared the wire as expected. Maybe another small drill hole perpendicular to the grub screw hole at the bottom of the threading would make it easier. For now I strip enough insulation off and fold up the wire jam it in there and put the grub screw aside.
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dden, This is what I use, it is exactly like you said, a hole drilled (almost) perpendicular to the tapped set screw hole. :yh:
This hole does need to be as close to the bottom of the tapped hole as possible, or it will tend to shear your wire as you tighten it.

I also pre-tin my wire, so it gives it a little extra strength, sometimes I'll even strip the wire a little long, and fold it over for an even better grasp.



b8d2bcbf-91cc-483f-8882-0518932454ca_zpshfnjxyhn.jpg
 
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dden4012 said:
Rich I'm curious how you are using the grub screw to secure the neg lead. I tried to use it with the grub screw but it sheared the wire as expected. Maybe another small drill hole perpendicular to the grub screw hole at the bottom of the threading would make it easier. For now I strip enough insulation off and fold up the wire jam it in there and put the grub screw aside.
Click to expand...

Hi D,
If you notice the set screw doesn't have to be driven home. When you screw the 510 connector down there will still be room from the top inside the 510 to the top of the set screw. I have done this a number of time with success ..

Rich:)
 
Hi,
Thought i would put something together in a host for the 510 modules . I randomly chose this SkyRay host just picked it up and started working on it. I had a few 510 female connectors so i machined an adapter fit it all together. The 510 copper modules just to show (empty) a nice BDR- 209 405nm would go nice ran off a single 18650 ..Enjoy folks :)
Rich:)
 

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Best way to go about it is just having the module wired case positive/negative, by wiring one of the driver input pins to the diode case pin. That's how most of my modern hosts are designed for. Makes life a hell of a lot easier, DTR will do it for you if you ask nicely! :p
 
BowtieGuy said:
dden, This is what I use, it is exactly like you said, a hole drilled (almost) perpendicular to the tapped set screw hole. :yh:
This hole does need to be as close to the bottom of the tapped hole as possible, or it will tend to shear your wire as you tighten it.

I also pre-tin my wire, so it gives it a little extra strength, sometimes I'll even strip the wire a little long, and fold it over for an even better grasp.



b8d2bcbf-91cc-483f-8882-0518932454ca_zpshfnjxyhn.jpg
Click to expand...


Hi Bt,
The hole is a great idea and you can also use a brass flat head screw and solder the outside of the head . All it will take is a touch the iron the 510 adapter never threads home so there is plenty of room in-between

Rich:)
 
BowtieGuy said:
dden, This is what I use, it is exactly like you said, a hole drilled (almost) perpendicular to the tapped set screw hole. :yh:
This hole does need to be as close to the bottom of the tapped hole as possible, or it will tend to shear your wire as you tighten it.
Click to expand...

Great idea BT, as Rich said.
Just a quick question/s, obviously you don't drill right through?
And I assume it's just at a slight angle, as you drill from the inside top so hence "almost perpendicular" ?

I'll be putting together the two I have lined up soon, one for me and one for Pete (GSS).

:beer:
 
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