GB: Low Cost 15K Scanner Galvo Set with DMX & ILDA Complete - $75 **ARRIVED**

[rocket689]

Yep, the pins coming out of the "adjustable blue block thingy's"lol, are broken off internally. The pins are still on the PCB. I suppose I could find some replacement pins and glob some solder in the holes, then attempt to resolder it to the PCB with hopes for the best?:undecided:

Lol. I don't think that would have a very good success rate. Like Flight said; if there is any place to get contact with a DMM on the pot, measure the resistance all the way left, then all the way right. Should be 0 ohms to ?? Kohms probably. Then replace it with a suitable multi turn pot ( i know Bourns makes them)

 

[CDHDC]

Lol. I don't think that would have a very good success rate. Like Flight said; if there is any place to get contact with a DMM on the pot, measure the resistance all the way left, then all the way right. Should be 0 ohms to ?? Kohms probably. Then replace it with a suitable multi turn pot ( i know Bourns makes them)

So.... Your saying there's a chance.... Sorry, I watched Dumb and Dumber yesterday:crackup:

 

[rocket689]

So.... Your saying there's a chance.... Sorry, I watched Dumb and Dumber yesterday:crackup:

This is completely off subject, but....I heard rumors that theyr'e considering making another dumb and dumber. Lol :crackup:

Anyway, yes, there is a chance.

 

[CDHDC]

I'll also contact Vash and ask about replacements!

Thanks! Let me know

 

[CDHDC]

A replacement set would be nice, since it appears to be assembly error on the part of the manufacturer that caused the part to come off. Its difficult to see in the pic, but it looks to me like 1 or more of the pot's leads are broken off, which would make it very difficult to re-solder. The are however a very common part and can be easily purchased for only a couple bucks. Look on the sides of the pot and see if there are any identification markings. if not, twist it all the way to one side and meter the pins. Use this information to source a new one from digikey or a similar store.

I would not try to turn the set on until that is replaced, as it could cause damage to the galvos.

Sorry, I missed your post earlier. Upon unpacking, I noticed the block was pushed backwards. Upon closer inspection, I could physically see 2 of the pins not attached. When I touched it, it fell off On the side it reads:

BAOTER
3296
XCHC ELECTRON
3-SQUIGGLY-WITH A DOWNWARD ARROW OVER TOP AND 2 UNDERNEATH-SQUIGGLY-1

THE TOP SAYS 134 T AND X103

 

[rocket689]

Sorry, I missed your post earlier. Upon unpacking, I noticed the block was pushed backwards. Upon closer inspection, I could physically see 2 of the pins not attached. When I touched it, it fell off On the side it reads:

BAOTER
3296
XCHC ELECTRON
3-SQUIGGLY-WITH A DOWNWARD ARROW OVER TOP AND 2 UNDERNEATH-SQUIGGLY-1

THE TOP SAYS 134 T AND X103

Searching for Baoter 3296 seems to cross ref for bourns 3296.

http://www.bourns.com/pdfs/3296.pdf

 

[whatsupadrian]

DO NOT TURN THE POT


First off I would try for a replacement, Next i would calculate the resistance that the pot was preset to, more than likely this is to tune the galvos, their min/max scan angle, speed,exc ... You wanna know what it was tuned to because its function is unknown. Im pretty sure you could use any pot as long as you set it to that resistance and should work fine. good luck

 

[CDHDC]

DO NOT TURN THE POT


First off I would try for a replacement, Next i would calculate the resistance that the pot was preset to, more than likely this is to tune the galvos, their min/max scan angle, speed,exc ... You wanna know what it was tuned to because its function is unknown. Im pretty sure you could use any pot as long as you set it to that resistance and should work fine. good luck

That's exactly what I was thinking I probably know the least out of anybody on the forum about electronics, but I have some common sense.LOL. I just need to look back to see exactly how to measure the resistance, (if I can make contact with the broken pins), and move forward. Thanks, guys:thanks:

 

[hakzaw1]

Ain't that the truth. Lol. I know some vets like Hak and others are watching this thread. Hopefully they can chime in.

Edit: ooops, double post. Sorry.

i
I CANT BELIEVE CAMBRIDGE WOULD SELL YOU GUYS THOSE FOR 375$ AND THEY DONT..... oh thats right they were not Cambidge and you didnt pay,,, sorry could not resist .

When the GB went up half my brain said 'get one--its a deal and when you finally get the two sitting in a box in use you will wish you had one.' The other half said let Corbin bite the bullet and then buy one if all goes well... but I am not laughing and I truly wish I was savvy enough to help out you guys but you give me too much credit my friends. I do have one way you could get a lot of hands-on help-- Come to SELEM and bring one with you. Also you may already know there is a tut on PL that may help.
If he wasnt always so busy Austin (Mr) Willing built his own rgb and he knows a lot he may help. Paul Zimm and dnar are smart and helpful. But busy, Cypragon-has built. Jerry is building. nm.

I really wish I could help more.

Maybe you could send some pics to Lenny- 'no-esc' he just did one and now wants to build and sell. We both got our 1w red labs- a led dip card w/ mic and db25 in and outs from Spacelas in the same order. He has a bunch of vids on youtube and I have a box of parts taunting me.
good luck guys and if I can find help I will let you all know. Too bad thier QC and packing sucks.

len

 

[whatsupadrian]

That's exactly what I was thinking I probably know the least out of anybody on the forum about electronics, but I have some common sense.LOL. I just need to look back to see exactly how to measure the resistance, (if I can make contact with the broken pins), and move forward. Thanks, guys:thanks:

If you could get us some macro shots of which pins broke on the board and of the leads on the pot we may be able to further help.

 

[bhwollen]

Thanks for the link. Fit like a glove.

I found some plugs to fit into the R,G & B spots on the board. I just salvaged some jumpers off of computer pcb's that were 2 wire.

I also found them on laser surplus parts.com (make all one word), but they come with both male and female parts.

http://www.*****************.com/shop/128-micro-drive-connector-pigtail.html

 

[CDHDC]

i
I CANT BELIEVE CAMBRIDGE WOULD SELL YOU GUYS THOSE FOR 375$ AND THEY DONT..... oh thats right they were not Cambidge and you didnt pay,,, sorry could not resist .

When the GB went up half my brain said 'get one--its a deal and when you finally get the two sitting in a box in use you will wish you had one.' The other half said let Corbin bite the bullet and then buy one if all goes well... but I am not laughing and I truly wish I was savvy enough to help out you guys but you give me too much credit my friends. I do have one way you could get a lot of hands-on help-- Come to SELEM and bring one with you. Also you may already know there is a tut on PL that may help.
If he wasnt always so busy Austin (Mr) Willing built his own rgb and he knows a lot he may help. Paul Zimm and dnar are smart and helpful. But busy, Cypragon-has built. Jerry is building. nm.

I really wish I could help more.

Maybe you could send some pics to Lenny- 'no-esc' he just did one and now wants to build and sell. We both got our 1w red labs- a led dip card w/ mic and db25 in and outs from Spacelas in the same order. He has a bunch of vids on youtube and I have a box of parts taunting me.
good luck guys and if I can find help I will let you all know. Too bad thier QC and packing sucks.

len

LOL! Thanks, HAK Sounds like they'll replace it for me. You win some, you lose some:yh: - Corbin

 

[whatsupadrian]

LOL! Thanks, HAK Sounds like they'll replace it for me. You win some, you lose some:yh: - Corbin

Well thats good, do they expect you to ship that broken one back?

 

[swimminsurfer256]

Alright the DACs and software from the GB came today. I decided to test it out before going any further. Got everything hooked up and it looks good.. Got a few questions though since LSX (and all the other software it comes with) is a bit daunting... how do you calibrate everything? Most the images I'm projecting look like s#!t (not to mention words are backwards and also look like s#!t). I looked through the manuals that come with the devices and everything but it's either outdated (?) or I'm just stupid... or both..

So after that gets done.. I need to figure out this whole blanking thing.. So since mine for now is just a green system I suppose I could connect the two wires to the TTL area on the scanner part from this GB. Which pins are +5 and 0? And does anyone have a creative way to connect it other than just putting the wires there and hoping for the best? hahahaha that's my rant...

 

[Pontiacg5]

Alright the DACs and software from the GB came today. I decided to test it out before going any further. Got everything hooked up and it looks good.. Got a few questions though since LSX (and all the other software it comes with) is a bit daunting... how do you calibrate everything? Most the images I'm projecting look like s#!t (not to mention words are backwards and also look like s#!t). I looked through the manuals that come with the devices and everything but it's either outdated (?) or I'm just stupid... or both..

So after that gets done.. I need to figure out this whole blanking thing.. So since mine for now is just a green system I suppose I could connect the two wires to the TTL area on the scanner part from this GB. Which pins are +5 and 0? And does anyone have a creative way to connect it other than just putting the wires there and hoping for the best? hahahaha that's my rant...

No idea about tuning, someone on PL may be able to help.

As far as which pins are what, look up the ILDA output to figure out which pins on the connector are for green modulation. Then you should be able to test for continuity to figure out polarity.

Someone posted a link for the connector that plugs into the board above. I don't think it gets any more creative than that!

 

[swimminsurfer256]

No idea about tuning, someone on PL may be able to help.

As far as which pins are what, look up the ILDA output to figure out which pins on the connector are for green modulation. Then you should be able to test for continuity to figure out polarity.

Someone posted a link for the connector that plugs into the board above. I don't think it gets any more creative than that!

I'll check/post on PL I suppose!

I know they are the middle one of the three from another post in this thread but I don't know which pin within the connection is which (+5/0). I'll figure it out..

Haha that was my last resort