I'm interested in your doing a "hot build" of everthing but the laser. I don't have the skills for the build, but I have a friend who can help me install the laser (but asking him to do the full build would be too much).
Questions:
Can you do the build in a Art Asylum TOS Phaser instead of the Playmate? The AA just is a better looking replica. (I would supply the toy or pay if you have a source)
Have you seen the new WAND Company Phaser replica/remote control and do you have any opinion on how suitable it would be for a build?
I want as "blue" a laser as possible to replicate the look of the original TV show effect. What diode do you recommend and where can I get that?
For the record, I'm not very concerned with power, as far as popping ballons, etc, as much as I am with beam appearance. If I need power to get a good looking beam, so be it, but power for the sake of power is not my thing.
I'm interested in your doing a "hot build" of everthing but the laser. I don't have the skills for the build, but I have a friend who can help me install the laser (but asking him to do the full build would be too much).
Questions:
Can you do the build in a Art Asylum TOS Phaser instead of the Playmate? The AA just is a better looking replica. (I would supply the toy or pay if you have a source)
Have you seen the new WAND Company Phaser replica/remote control and do you have any opinion on how suitable it would be for a build?
I want as "blue" a laser as possible to replicate the look of the original TV show effect. What diode do you recommend and where can I get that?
For the record, I'm not very concerned with power, as far as popping ballons, etc, as much as I am with beam appearance. If I need power to get a good looking beam, so be it, but power for the sake of power is not my thing.
I'm interested in your doing a "hot build" of everthing but the laser. I don't have the skills for the build, but I have a friend who can help me install the laser (but asking him to do the full build would be too much).
Questions:
Can you do the build in a Art Asylum TOS Phaser instead of the Playmate? The AA just is a better looking replica. (I would supply the toy or pay if you have a source)
Have you seen the new WAND Company Phaser replica/remote control and do you have any opinion on how suitable it would be for a build?
I want as "blue" a laser as possible to replicate the look of the original TV show effect. What diode do you recommend and where can I get that?
For the record, I'm not very concerned with power, as far as popping ballons, etc, as much as I am with beam appearance. If I need power to get a good looking beam, so be it, but power for the sake of power is not my thing.
I've tried the Art Asylum but did not like it because there is limited room for batteries. Also did not like the removable phaser on top because that is where the sound is, and it is only button cells.
I'm sure it can be done, as well as the Wand Company phaser you linked, but I'm really not interested in tackling that project.
It would be a tedious project...
Send me a PM if your still interested in a kit using the model I showed in the thread... :beer:
I just saw your great enhancements to the star trek phaser.
Do you still have some of the phaser available (without the diode)?
If yes what will be the costs and how can I order it from you?
I own a Nichia NDB7875 445nm 9mm Copper Blue Laser module with driver andf 405-G-2 Diode (2400mA) and want to use it for this phaser. Nichia NDB7875 445nm 9mm Copper 445nm Blue Laser Module w x Drive 405 G 2 | eBay
Could you send me a list and pricing of the parts you think I will need?
Thanks in advance and greetings here from a Trekki fan from Germany.
I just saw your great enhancements to the star trek phaser.
Do you still have some of the phaser available (without the diode)?
If yes what will be the costs and how can I order it from you?
I own a Nichia NDB7875 445nm 9mm Copper Blue Laser module with driver andf 405-G-2 Diode (2400mA) and want to use it for this phaser. Nichia NDB7875 445nm 9mm Copper 445nm Blue Laser Module w x Drive 405 G 2 | eBay
Could you send me a list and pricing of the parts you think I will need?
Thanks in advance and greetings here from a Trekki fan from Germany.
There is not room for a full length module where the module needs to be mounted.
So you need the diode in module. (but remove the back 'barrel' part of the module) I mount the driver in a separate location, and you just connect my driver leads to your diode.
The other thing is, I would recommend 1.5 Amps boost driver such as the V5 FlexDrive in this build.
And that's just because of the battery size limitations.
If you go 2.4 Amp X-Drive, that means batteries in series. No problem except you really have to watch your run time because it will probably draw around 2 Amps from the cells and it would be really easy to over discharge the cells.
I like 1.5 Amps in a boost driver running the batteries in parallel to double the capacity, but at a lower setting of 1.5 Amps makes it a more reliable set up.
However, I can set it up for your 2.4 Amp X-Drive if you want.
This 'Hot' option Phaser Kit and/or parts, are specifically for my Star Trek Phaser mod... (445,green,blu-ray, or red)
Note: I do not sell complete lasers. My kits do not include diodes or modules. You must buy your own laser diode and/or green laser module to complete the assembly. ('Hot' option means 'driver installed and current set', safety switch, LED, heatsink, EzFocus adapter, and everything built - but no laser diode included)
I do offer a 'Hot' option build that is complete with safety switch, LED, FlexDrive installed...
Heatsink set and aligned, EzFocus adapter, and 405-G-1... (laser diode not included) See 'Hot' option below...
Proper eye protection needed: Just a warning. (In case you may be a beginner) Read up on proper eye protection...
AixiZ module: You will not use the back 'barrel' part of the AixiZ module. All that is needed with any decent heatsink, is the front 'business end' of the module.
For a 445 build, you can get your diode pre-installed into an AixiZ module with lead wires soldered on from daguin or DTR.
In that case, you will just connect your diode leads, to my driver leads... ('Hot' option kit)
1.5 Amp 445 build: (see pricing for the 1.5 Amp build below)
Here are some custom partsthat I will offer if you would like to follow my tutorial for this Star Trek Phaser modification...
About the cone tipped EzFocus adapter. Please realize that there is a lot of work involved in making this piece. That is why I am asking the price shown.
* Three different size drilling operations
* Then a reamer to size for lens thread tapping
* Tap the threads for the lens, lined up on the lathe for perfect alignment
* A lot of shaving down on both ends for the shaft and the cone
* Then the knurling... after the sizing of the knob and the skirt which fits the cap. (see pictures and tutorial link above)
* And finally, the angle cut for the cone, and putting a nice sanded finish on it
If you do this build, and get this EzFocus adapter, you will not be disappointed. It is perfect...
* Heatsink - $23 (or $12 dollars more for the copper heatsink) - Fit for either build. The set screw location is the only difference,
* 'Cone tipped' EzFocus adapter - $55
P.S. I have a few of the Phasers, and I would do a 'Hot' option kit, but would not include the diode. You would have to get your own diode to turn it into a laser...
Send me a PM if you are interested!
If you look at the tutorials, you will see that in both builds, there is a drilling operation for the nose...
* For the green, I drill a 9/64" hole straight through the stock cone.
* For the 12X, I drill the nose cap to fit my custom EzFocus adapter.
So if you would like, then you can send me your nose cap, and I can also do the drilling at no additional charge.
Also, in the 12X tutorial, I show a safety switch option. The switches I stock, are for my 'Hot' option kits, but if you plan on doing it the way I show it, you can also send me your sound knob, and I can drill it through, and fit it with a fiber optic plug as shown in my tutorial for an extra $5 bucks.
But you would get your own 3mm LED for it. First make sure you will have the proper type of switch for this set up...
Here is all the information... (save for future reference)
The most complete build I could do for you is to set up the phaser with everything except for the laser diode.
Important: For those who are new to lasers, this modification can damage the eye instantly with a direct shot or reflection. Proper eye protection for 405nm wave length is recommended. And extreme caution needed when using. I would recommend storing it in a lockable case so that it cannot be accessed by just any person or child...
Proper eye protection for 405nm is recommended.
Which is why I cannot sell it complete. (FDA) Only the non-laser parts.
I don't sell complete lasers because of FDA regulations.
So the most complete build I could do for you is to set up the phaser with everything except for the laser diode.
I could even have the driver mounted and current pre-set. I could have the heatsink installed and adjusted too. All you would have to do, is get a diode, and mount it into an AixiZ module, solder lead wires to your diode pins, slip it into my heatsink, tighten the set screw, and solder your lead wires to my driver lead wires.
I would call that a 'Hot' option kit. (driver installed) But it would still not be a cheap project.
Sorry, but the parts add up. I would want:
* Heatsink - $23 (add $12 for copper upgrade)
* EzFocus adapter - $55
* AixiZ module - $5
* 405-G-1 glass lens - $55
* Phaser - $50 (or send me your phaser – 1994 Playmates brand, stock #6118)
* Parts - Driver, switch, LED, wire, etc... - $40 (driver alone is $26)
* Labor to do the modifications on the Phaser. And modify the trigger switch, wire and mount the safety switch and LED, fit the heatsink and install the driver. - $100
* Shipping - Based on my PayPal fees and shipping cost. (send private message)
Out of U.S. buyers will assume responsibility. But there should be no problem. I would mark the package as a gift, with a description of 'Star Trek Toy', and a low value of $15 dollars.
Anyway, as you can see, it is not cheap. The time involved is this modification, not counting the machine work for the heatsink and EzFocus adapter (which is the most technical part), is at a minimum of 3 or 4 hours...
Parts options:
The parts add up too. Especially if you want to build a 12X power like the one I show in my video with the safety switch and everything...
Your overall cost for a phaser build will depend on your choice of which laser diode to use:
* PHR diode - $12 (about 110mW’s with AixiZ acrylic, or 140mW’s with my 405-G-1 glass lens)
* GGW 6X diode - $60 (about 180mW’s with AixiZ acrylic, or 226mW’s with my 405-G-1 glass lens)
* 12X diode - $60 (470+mW’s with my 405-G-1 glass lens)
* 445 diode - $50 (1.5 Amp 'Hot' option available - see below)
There you will see exactly which phaser to buy, and there is a link to the driver. (FlexDrive)
The FlexDrive is very small, and requires an understanding of how it works. There are range settings that can be soldered. See the documentation here: (for a 12X build, you want the 4th range setting - 155 to 600) http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_d..._V5_manual.pdf
The FlexDrive will get damaged if you power it with out a load. You also will need a proper test load to set the current. See this write up for how to set current using a test load: (he shows a DDL driver, but it is the same procedure with a FlexDrive) It can be done - Laser driver
* If you decide you would like a 'Hot' option kit, which is everything except the diode, then I can make that for you.
* If you decide that you just need the heatsink, EzFocus adapter, and 405-G-1 glass lens, then I can make them for you. (405-G-1 needed for this power)
But I don't sell the switches and other parts unless I am building a 'Hot' option kit...
Keep this information for future reference!
One thing if you get the 'Hot' option kit from me...
I know that the FlexDrive and everything will be perfect. It will be tested and set at 320mA's. I have set over 500 FlexDrives.
I just want to mention this because it is an electronic component that can be damaged if misused, and I will not be responsible.
If you carefully read my instructions that will be included, I'm sure you will be fine. The worst thing you will do is maybe kill your diode. But the driver can be damaged if powered without a load. So watch out for that. I have put warnings in the instruction sheet that I will include...
Even if it is powered for a split second without a load and doesn't harm the driver, it could still be a really bad thing. Because the capacitor in the driver would charge, and then it will kill your diode as soon as you try to connect it.
I will make sure that the driver cap is discharged after I test it and set the current...
With the 'Hot' option kit, I would like to take my time with it, and get everything perfect. (like 2 or 3 days)
You would need to get your diode pressed into the AixiZ module, solder two 'fine' lead wires onto the diode pins, and complete the assembly...
Diodes are sensitive to ESD, and can also be damaged with too much heat during soldering. I would recommend practicing on a cheap diode such as a PHR for harvesting and soldering if you have not already done this kind of thing.
Cheap PHR diodes can be purchased at modwerx.com and hightechdealz.com (buy the complete 'sled')
Here is the diode pin connections:
Assembly of the Phaser:
The one area that you need to be careful about, is threading the lens in place. The lens will be installed into the end of my EzFocus adapter, which must be installed last. After the nose cap of the phaser is screwed on. So if you are not careful, you could cross thread the lens. But if you are careful, you will not have a problem.
I will have it aligned already with the heatsink. Because I will have the heatsink glued in place (on one side of the model, so that you obviously can take it apart to install your diode), and when I glue it in place with silicone glue, I will have it dry with the lens and EzFocus adapter already installed. This will automatically align the heatsink with the lens and EzFocus adapter. Also, it will align it with the phaser. The beam will then come out perfectly centered and aligned. As long as the diode is pressed in properly into your AixiZ module...
Here is a picture of the sled, and the location of the blu-ray diode: (Pioneer BDR-205 drive)
1.5 Amp 445 build:
I have done testing with running 2 X IMR 14500 Li-Ion's in parallel and it works great for a V5 FlexDrive set at 1.5 Amps...
It requires a few additional modifications:
* Re-wiring it for parallel
* Slight modification to the battery compartment
* Driver heatsink installed
* Installing voltage regulators for the sound board and the 3 volt LED 'armed' indicator LED. (7833 voltage regulators - 3.3 volts)
* Also, with this mod, the sound board is turned on with the safety switch, as well as the laser...
It is wired so that the voltage to the FlexDrive, is direct from the batteries. (4.2 volts at full charge)
* 2 X IMR 14500 in parallel = 1200mAh's capacity
* 2 X AW protected 14500's in parallel = 1500mAh's capacity
I've also got an extra LED inside. So that blue light is illuminated out of the top of the vent plate when you activate the trigger...
With a 'Hot' option kit, the heatsink for the module is installed, and glued in place. It has to be that way because I align it with the EzFocus adapter, and the nozzle of the phaser.
All you have to do, is slide your diode/AixiZ module into the heatsink and set it's position with the set screw. (you will need a 1.5mm Hex wrench)
Then just solder your diode leads, to my driver leads, and that's it...
The IMR 14500 Li-Ion batteries must be installed with both positive ends the same direction. I have permanent marker on the battery compartment to remind you of the battery install direction.
With this build, I include the IMR 14500's. Because I need them to do the fitting, and also for the testing...
Note: With a little extra work to modify the battery compartment, I can fit protected AW 14500's.
Do not install the batteries until you get your diode connected. Because the driver can get damaged if powered without a load.
The capacity will be approximately 1200mAh's (IMR 14500's - 1500mAh's for protected AW 14500's). So you must be careful not to over discharge the Li-Ion batteries. It will be around 30 to 40 minutes between charges. Check voltage once in a while. Do not let the batteries get below 3 volts.
Pricing:
* Heatsink - $23
* Copper heatsink upgrade - $12
* EzFocus adapter - $55
* AixiZ 445 lens - $11
* AixiZ module - $5 (I like to sell the module with the kit, because I install and align the heatsink using the module)
* Phaser - $50 (Playmates brand, stock #6118)
* Parts - Driver, switch, LED, 2 X 3 volt regulators, wire, etc... - $55
* V5 FlexDrive 'Hot' option set at 1500mA's with driver heatsink, custom wiring for 2 X Li-Ion's in parallel, 3 volt regulator for LED's and sound board - Labor to modify the trigger switch, wire and mount the safety switch and LED, fit the heatsink and install the driver. - $145
* 2 X IMR 14500 Li-Ion batteries - $20
* Shipping (U.S.A.) - $29 (based on PayPal fees plus Priority shipping with delivery confirmation)
Total - $405 dollars.
Reminder: With this build, the sound will not work until you arm the laser with the safety switch. Then the sound will work, along with the laser...
This 'Hot' option Phaser Kit and/or parts, are specifically for my Star Trek Phaser mod... (445,green,blu-ray, or red)
Note: I do not sell complete lasers. My kits do not include diodes or modules. You must buy your own laser diode and/or green laser module to complete the assembly. ('Hot' option means 'driver installed and current set', safety switch, LED, heatsink, EzFocus adapter, and everything built - but no laser diode included)
I do offer a 'Hot' option build that is complete with safety switch, LED, FlexDrive installed...
Heatsink set and aligned, EzFocus adapter, and 405-G-1... (laser diode not included) See 'Hot' option below...
Proper eye protection needed: Just a warning. (In case you may be a beginner) Read up on proper eye protection...
AixiZ module: You will not use the back 'barrel' part of the AixiZ module. All that is needed with any decent heatsink, is the front 'business end' of the module.
For a 445 build, you can get your diode pre-installed into an AixiZ module with lead wires soldered on from daguin or DTR.
In that case, you will just connect your diode leads, to my driver leads... ('Hot' option kit)
1.5 Amp 445 build: (see pricing for the 1.5 Amp build below)
Here are some custom partsthat I will offer if you would like to follow my tutorial for this Star Trek Phaser modification...
About the cone tipped EzFocus adapter. Please realize that there is a lot of work involved in making this piece. That is why I am asking the price shown.
* Three different size drilling operations
* Then a reamer to size for lens thread tapping
* Tap the threads for the lens, lined up on the lathe for perfect alignment
* A lot of shaving down on both ends for the shaft and the cone
* Then the knurling... after the sizing of the knob and the skirt which fits the cap. (see pictures and tutorial link above)
* And finally, the angle cut for the cone, and putting a nice sanded finish on it
If you do this build, and get this EzFocus adapter, you will not be disappointed. It is perfect...
* Heatsink - $23 (or $12 dollars more for the copper heatsink) - Fit for either build. The set screw location is the only difference,
* 'Cone tipped' EzFocus adapter - $55
P.S. I have a few of the Phasers, and I would do a 'Hot' option kit, but would not include the diode. You would have to get your own diode to turn it into a laser...
Send me a PM if you are interested!
If you look at the tutorials, you will see that in both builds, there is a drilling operation for the nose...
* For the green, I drill a 9/64" hole straight through the stock cone.
* For the 12X, I drill the nose cap to fit my custom EzFocus adapter.
So if you would like, then you can send me your nose cap, and I can also do the drilling at no additional charge.
Also, in the 12X tutorial, I show a safety switch option. The switches I stock, are for my 'Hot' option kits, but if you plan on doing it the way I show it, you can also send me your sound knob, and I can drill it through, and fit it with a fiber optic plug as shown in my tutorial for an extra $5 bucks.
But you would get your own 3mm LED for it. First make sure you will have the proper type of switch for this set up...
Here is all the information... (save for future reference)
The most complete build I could do for you is to set up the phaser with everything except for the laser diode.
Important: For those who are new to lasers, this modification can damage the eye instantly with a direct shot or reflection. Proper eye protection for 405nm wave length is recommended. And extreme caution needed when using. I would recommend storing it in a lockable case so that it cannot be accessed by just any person or child...
Proper eye protection for 405nm is recommended.
Which is why I cannot sell it complete. (FDA) Only the non-laser parts.
I don't sell complete lasers because of FDA regulations.
So the most complete build I could do for you is to set up the phaser with everything except for the laser diode.
I could even have the driver mounted and current pre-set. I could have the heatsink installed and adjusted too. All you would have to do, is get a diode, and mount it into an AixiZ module, solder lead wires to your diode pins, slip it into my heatsink, tighten the set screw, and solder your lead wires to my driver lead wires.
I would call that a 'Hot' option kit. (driver installed) But it would still not be a cheap project.
Sorry, but the parts add up. I would want:
* Heatsink - $23 (add $12 for copper upgrade)
* EzFocus adapter - $55
* AixiZ module - $5
* 405-G-1 glass lens - $55
* Phaser - $50 (or send me your phaser – 1994 Playmates brand, stock #6118)
* Parts - Driver, switch, LED, wire, etc... - $40 (driver alone is $26)
* Labor to do the modifications on the Phaser. And modify the trigger switch, wire and mount the safety switch and LED, fit the heatsink and install the driver. - $100
* Shipping - Based on my PayPal fees and shipping cost. (send private message)
Out of U.S. buyers will assume responsibility. But there should be no problem. I would mark the package as a gift, with a description of 'Star Trek Toy', and a low value of $15 dollars.
Anyway, as you can see, it is not cheap. The time involved is this modification, not counting the machine work for the heatsink and EzFocus adapter (which is the most technical part), is at a minimum of 3 or 4 hours...
Parts options:
The parts add up too. Especially if you want to build a 12X power like the one I show in my video with the safety switch and everything...
Your overall cost for a phaser build will depend on your choice of which laser diode to use:
* PHR diode - $12 (about 110mW’s with AixiZ acrylic, or 140mW’s with my 405-G-1 glass lens)
* GGW 6X diode - $60 (about 180mW’s with AixiZ acrylic, or 226mW’s with my 405-G-1 glass lens)
* 12X diode - $60 (470+mW’s with my 405-G-1 glass lens)
* 445 diode - $50 (1.5 Amp 'Hot' option available - see below)
There you will see exactly which phaser to buy, and there is a link to the driver. (FlexDrive)
The FlexDrive is very small, and requires an understanding of how it works. There are range settings that can be soldered. See the documentation here: (for a 12X build, you want the 4th range setting - 155 to 600) http://hacylon.case.edu/ebay/laser_d..._V5_manual.pdf
The FlexDrive will get damaged if you power it with out a load. You also will need a proper test load to set the current. See this write up for how to set current using a test load: (he shows a DDL driver, but it is the same procedure with a FlexDrive) It can be done - Laser driver
* If you decide you would like a 'Hot' option kit, which is everything except the diode, then I can make that for you.
* If you decide that you just need the heatsink, EzFocus adapter, and 405-G-1 glass lens, then I can make them for you. (405-G-1 needed for this power)
But I don't sell the switches and other parts unless I am building a 'Hot' option kit...
Keep this information for future reference!
One thing if you get the 'Hot' option kit from me...
I know that the FlexDrive and everything will be perfect. It will be tested and set at 320mA's. I have set over 500 FlexDrives.
I just want to mention this because it is an electronic component that can be damaged if misused, and I will not be responsible.
If you carefully read my instructions that will be included, I'm sure you will be fine. The worst thing you will do is maybe kill your diode. But the driver can be damaged if powered without a load. So watch out for that. I have put warnings in the instruction sheet that I will include...
Even if it is powered for a split second without a load and doesn't harm the driver, it could still be a really bad thing. Because the capacitor in the driver would charge, and then it will kill your diode as soon as you try to connect it.
I will make sure that the driver cap is discharged after I test it and set the current...
With the 'Hot' option kit, I would like to take my time with it, and get everything perfect. (like 2 or 3 days)
You would need to get your diode pressed into the AixiZ module, solder two 'fine' lead wires onto the diode pins, and complete the assembly...
Diodes are sensitive to ESD, and can also be damaged with too much heat during soldering. I would recommend practicing on a cheap diode such as a PHR for harvesting and soldering if you have not already done this kind of thing.
Cheap PHR diodes can be purchased at modwerx.com and hightechdealz.com (buy the complete 'sled')
Here is the diode pin connections:
Assembly of the Phaser:
The one area that you need to be careful about, is threading the lens in place. The lens will be installed into the end of my EzFocus adapter, which must be installed last. After the nose cap of the phaser is screwed on. So if you are not careful, you could cross thread the lens. But if you are careful, you will not have a problem.
I will have it aligned already with the heatsink. Because I will have the heatsink glued in place (on one side of the model, so that you obviously can take it apart to install your diode), and when I glue it in place with silicone glue, I will have it dry with the lens and EzFocus adapter already installed. This will automatically align the heatsink with the lens and EzFocus adapter. Also, it will align it with the phaser. The beam will then come out perfectly centered and aligned. As long as the diode is pressed in properly into your AixiZ module...
Here is a picture of the sled, and the location of the blu-ray diode: (Pioneer BDR-205 drive)
1.5 Amp 445 build:
I have done testing with running 2 X IMR 14500 Li-Ion's in parallel and it works great for a V5 FlexDrive set at 1.5 Amps...
It requires a few additional modifications:
* Re-wiring it for parallel
* Slight modification to the battery compartment
* Driver heatsink installed
* Installing voltage regulators for the sound board and the 3 volt LED 'armed' indicator LED. (7833 voltage regulators - 3.3 volts)
* Also, with this mod, the sound board is turned on with the safety switch, as well as the laser...
It is wired so that the voltage to the FlexDrive, is direct from the batteries. (4.2 volts at full charge)
* 2 X IMR 14500 in parallel = 1200mAh's capacity
* 2 X AW protected 14500's in parallel = 1500mAh's capacity
I've also got an extra LED inside. So that blue light is illuminated out of the top of the vent plate when you activate the trigger...
With a 'Hot' option kit, the heatsink for the module is installed, and glued in place. It has to be that way because I align it with the EzFocus adapter, and the nozzle of the phaser.
All you have to do, is slide your diode/AixiZ module into the heatsink and set it's position with the set screw. (you will need a 1.5mm Hex wrench)
Then just solder your diode leads, to my driver leads, and that's it...
The IMR 14500 Li-Ion batteries must be installed with both positive ends the same direction. I have permanent marker on the battery compartment to remind you of the battery install direction.
With this build, I include the IMR 14500's. Because I need them to do the fitting, and also for the testing...
Note: With a little extra work to modify the battery compartment, I can fit protected AW 14500's.
Do not install the batteries until you get your diode connected. Because the driver can get damaged if powered without a load.
The capacity will be approximately 1200mAh's (IMR 14500's - 1500mAh's for protected AW 14500's). So you must be careful not to over discharge the Li-Ion batteries. It will be around 30 to 40 minutes between charges. Check voltage once in a while. Do not let the batteries get below 3 volts.
Pricing:
* Heatsink - $23
* Copper heatsink upgrade - $12
* EzFocus adapter - $55
* AixiZ 445 lens - $11
* AixiZ module - $5 (I like to sell the module with the kit, because I install and align the heatsink using the module)
* Phaser - $50 (Playmates brand, stock #6118)
* Parts - Driver, switch, LED, 2 X 3 volt regulators, wire, etc... - $55
* V5 FlexDrive 'Hot' option set at 1500mA's with driver heatsink, custom wiring for 2 X Li-Ion's in parallel, 3 volt regulator for LED's and sound board - Labor to modify the trigger switch, wire and mount the safety switch and LED, fit the heatsink and install the driver. - $145
* 2 X IMR 14500 Li-Ion batteries - $20
* Shipping (U.S.A.) - $29 (based on PayPal fees plus Priority shipping with delivery confirmation)
Total - $405 dollars.
Reminder: With this build, the sound will not work until you arm the laser with the safety switch. Then the sound will work, along with the laser...
Hi Jayrob,
First off,
Thank you so much for your contribution! This is the coolest thing I've seen posted on the Internet yet!!! You are the bomb-diggity dude!!
I am extremely interested in getting one. However, I have never worked with lasers or electronics before. Therefore, I have plenty of questions.
1- Does the color of the laser have anything to do with the strength of the beam? I would like to have the most powerful blue beam if possible. Red is cool too.
2- Please explain what the "hot option" is in a way you would explain it to a 5 year old child. Is that an option I would want?
3- I am looking to purchase a phaser that is as assembled as possible. I understand that you do not sell completed phasers. I would like to purchase from you one that is a "plug and play" kind of thing as much as feasible so I can't screw anything up.
Once again, thank you for your innovation and contribution making this a must-have for any Star Trek enthusiast. Look forward to hearing from you!
Hi Jayrob,
First off,
Thank you so much for your contribution! This is the coolest thing I've seen posted on the Internet yet!!! You are the bomb-diggity dude!!
I am extremely interested in getting one. However, I have never worked with lasers or electronics before. Therefore, I have plenty of questions.
1- Does the color of the laser have anything to do with the strength of the beam? I would like to have the most powerful blue beam if possible. Red is cool too.
2- Please explain what the "hot option" is in a way you would explain it to a 5 year old child. Is that an option I would want?
3- I am looking to purchase a phaser that is as assembled as possible. I understand that you do not sell completed phasers. I would like to purchase from you one that is a "plug and play" kind of thing as much as feasible so I can't screw anything up.
Once again, thank you for your innovation and contribution making this a must-have for any Star Trek enthusiast. Look forward to hearing from you!
Maybe you can Help. I put on lightsaber shows and want to do something new. Im trying to research how to put a red laser with a wide beam in a Star wars blaster gun with a momentary switch, strong enough to be seen from a stage for my show, so that it looks like the storm troopers laser from the movies. Can you help. I have no experience with lasers.
Maybe you can Help. I put on lightsaber shows and want to do something new. Im trying to research how to put a red laser with a wide beam in a Star wars blaster gun with a momentary switch, strong enough to be seen from a stage for my show, so that it looks like the storm troopers laser from the movies. Can you help. I have no experience with lasers.
JRob -- I finally took the time to add a mosfet switch into mine and with no adjustments to the V5 went from 800 mW to 1.3 W !!! This is a neat build and easy since I use the stock trigger switch.
These are fun BUT NOT A TOY............
HMike
JRob -- I finally took the time to add a mosfet switch into mine and with no adjustments to the V5 went from 800 mW to 1.3 W !!! This is a neat build and easy since I use the stock trigger switch.
These are fun BUT NOT A TOY............
HMike
First on my list of owned stuff.