I'm sure there are several different ways to modify these with a laser...

I would like to show how I did it!

This modification is done using the Playmates brand, 1994 Classic Star Trek Phaser... (stock #6118)



I found the perfect switch for this mod... And this tutorial is mainly on how the switch mounts to make this a nice clean build using a 3 volt supply with either a green module, or a red/blu-ray modification too! (with FlexDrive)

But I'll show two switch options for you!

Update: I have upgraded this green build to use the safety switch set up with stock trigger button shown in my 12X tutorial. I like it much better with this easy trigger activation, and safety switch too...

Note: With this build, using a 3 volt supply, the power to the green module (or FlexDrive), must come directly from your trigger switch. Or via the safety switch. Not from the sound board...

* Switch: (Mouser part # 612-TL1290AF500RR)
TL1290AF500RR E-Switch Tactile & Jog Switches

* O-like modules:
50mW: http://o-like.com/index.php?main_pag...products_id=18
100mW: http://o-like.com/index.php?main_pag...products_id=16
150mW: http://o-like.com/index.php?main_pag...products_id=17



If building a red or a blu-ray mod, the heatsink set screw would be positioned in a different location on the heatsink. And you would mount a FlexDrive to power your diode from the 3 volt supply. (plenty of room) Other than that, the wiring will be the same as shown here for my green mod.

The other thing would be the use of a custom EzFocus adapter that would allow the focusing of a blu-ray (or red) mod.

See this custom 'cone tipped' EzFocus adapter on my 12X Phaser Mod shown here!




I have parts available in this FS thread - Click here!







I'll be showing my green modification in this thread... (balloon pop video at the bottom of this post)



I'm using a very stable, 100mW o-like module that is overpowered at 140mW's to 150mW's.

Very thin beam, good for lighting black tipped matches and popping balloons.




I really like how the drilled out nose cone glows green! The beam does not touch the sides, but the tip still glows nice and green...




The best features about this modification:

* Large heatsink
* Not having to move the stock board (because of my switch mod shown below)
* Nice sound (only two sound choices, but sounds better than the similar looking phaser from Diamond Select - IMO)
* Using 3 volt supply




Here are the pictures & details...












Switch Modification:











For me, it doesn't matter that the switch does not look like the stock switch. Because the 'feel' of this switch when you squeeze the trigger button is the best part of this build...

This switch has a nice spring inside of it, and when it activates, it has a nice little 'snap' to it. So you hear it click when you pull the trigger, and when you release it too. It's a very nice momentary switch!

That said, without my 'comfort cap' glued on, it does have a similar look to the stock button...





Another switch option:

If you want to use the stock trigger button, you could just set it up like this!

I am using this switch mod on my 12X build. It also has a safety switch installed. See here:
Tutorial: 12X Star Trek Phaser Mod!




Note: We know these switches are not rated for this application, but then again, they are used widely in green pointers and many other things...







This tiny belt sander is a priceless tool for this modification! Perfect for sanding the little plastic tabs that need to be removed to make room for the heatsink, and sanding the switch to size...



Hope you enjoyed this project!



Note:
One other thought on this mod...

I could easily make it fit two 14500's, and it would work the same. It would involve some slight modification of the battery compartment to fit the slightly longer batteries. And also to re-wire the way the batteries connect to each other, and the leads to the switch and negative connection.

Because I would set it up so that the two 14500's are in parallel. Doubling the capacity at 3.6/4.2 volts supply.

But I would have to use a 7833 (3.3 volt) regulator for the sound board and LED 'armed' indicator light...

I just wonder if it would be more capacity than the two AA's in series.



Update/current draw:

I just measured the battery current draw (2 X Energizer e2 lithium primary - 3 volt supply) at 740mA's for the 140mW o-like module running simultaneously with the sound circuit.

Since the batteries are about 3000mAh's capacity per battery (which would mean about 3000mAh's at 3 volts in series), I should get about 2 1/2 to 3 hours of run time!

That's much better than 2 X 14500's in parallel. (which would be approximately 1200 or 1400mAh's - never the stated capacity)

After playing with it tonight for at least 30 minutes of total run time, I checked the power and it is still very steady at 140 to 150mW's!

So I will be staying with the 2 X AA e2 lithium batteries. And again, this is perfect for a FlexDrive blu-ray build as well!





Balloon pop video:



Just for the record, in the video, the beam looks like it is angled up a little. Because the camera is above the phaser. But as you can see from my beam shot picture at the beginning of this post, it is perfectly aligned...





Check out my 12X Star Trek Phaser Tutorial here!
Tutorial: 12X Star Trek Phaser Mod!






Click here to see my list of projects and tutorials!

Great job Jay btw, who knows the original beam color and if there were more than one color in the first (Kirk as Captain), seasons? -Glenn

the original beam color was purple/blue.

^^i recall the phasers (pistol-style) firing purple/blue, but the personal firearm that Kirk carried with him sometimes, the one that looks like a little wallet, fired red.

Hey Jay... as usual... a nice clean build...

According to this site and photos... it seems the original Phaser produced
a Blue/Violet or Red Beam and Green in stun mode...

Star Trek Prop, Costume & Auction Authority: TOS Special Effects: Phaser Fire

I only checked this site... maybe others have something else to say or
add...

Jerry

Hey Jay,

You should make a "kill" Phaser

Haha, "kill phaser" lmao. I'd even get into DIY if that was possible, you could, with the right power supply, make a short-range "stun phaser" but it'd look more like the assualt rifle style phasers from the new series and the backpack of batteries you'd have to wear would make you look like a damn ghostbuster lmao.

phaser rifle: Old Style; http://www.xscapesprops.com/star%20t..._TOSdetail.jpg

Good answers guys! Thanks! -Glenn

Just for kicks, here's the new style, it's way cooler in my opinion; http://www.roddenberry.com/media/cat...file_24_34.png

Thanks for the compliments!

I really like this build...

I just ordered a 12X for my next one!

And I'll make the EzFocus adapter front piece trick. It will have a cone at the front to kind of mimic the original cone that will not be used with a focusable mod...

I do wish I could get you to make one for me, not a 12X, just a good 6X one w/b great! -Glenn

Well, it's not out of the question...

That is, making everything ready to just slide your module and diode into the heatsink, and make the connections to a pre-set FlexDrive or something like that... (like a 'Hot' option kit)

The EzFocus adapter will have to thread to the tip of the lens, so that it can adjust focus. It will be fit for my heatsink design, and an AixiZ module placed flush with the face of the heatsink, using a 405-G-1 (or 650-G-1) lens mod.

That said, there will be a little room for adjustment by moving the module position inside the heatsink. So other lenses would be doable...

I'm thinking something similar to this one that I made for a customer...



... Except maybe making the O.D. smaller. (the knurled part) And also having a short cone out the front. Similar to the look of the stock nose cone. But it wouldn't be as long.

It would be the most technical part of the build...

Getting the beam centered... That's the tricky part for a green, because the beam doesn't always come out the same with a green module.

It's a matter of turning the module, trial and error, finding the best alignment, and then possibly even adjusting the heatsink.

Doing all this testing to see if it will stay aligned when you put it together with pressure on the heatsink. (I used a small piece of double sided tape that you can see in my pictures)

When I knew I had it right, I put a dab of silicone glue on the other side where the heatsink sits into the slot, and then the double sided tape clamps it in place firmly as the glue dries.

So with a green, alignment is some trial and error, and adjusting.

That said, I'm sure it will be pretty much a piece of cake with a blu-ray or a red build. Because my heatsink design fits pretty 'snug' to the shape of the inside of the host. And this will automatically make for a perfectly aligned beam. As long as the diode is pressed into the module nice and perfect...

The tip too, will have some adjustment by turning it a little. (with a green) Mine is perfect when it is tightened all the way...

But with a blu-ray or red mod, I would have the center hole larger than 1/8" coming through the custom EzFocus adapter. (because the beam is wider than a green) And it would be turning with the lens. So it should be perfect. I guess alignment will not be an issue with a blu-ray build.

But the precise measuring needed for the EzFocus adapter, would be done on a completed build, with lens at focus...




The Playmates brand are getting harder to find. (I believe)

The newer style from Diamond Select (similar look), is not as good for modding... IMO.

I ended up with this very EZ Focus-adapter on my personal "Phaser by Pat". I works great and really enhances the function of the unit. Great job.

These are really more fun than they should be.
Barry

These builds are so cool. I'd love to have a phaser but lack the tech knowhow to make one.

Oh you got that huh Barry? Glad you like it!

Now that I have done this mod, and have seen what a stock nose cone looks like, my future blu-ray build will have a slightly modified version of that same concept EzFocus adapter.

Except I plan on making it with a little cone on the front to kind of look like the stock nose cone...

Absolutely! I can't believe how cool it is to have a laser in a Phaser. The sound effect makes a huge impact on the experience...

Thanks Jerry!






Update/current draw:

I just measured the battery current draw (2 X Energizer e2 lithium primary - 3 volt supply) at 740mA's for the 140mW o-like module running simultaneously with the sound circuit.

Since the batteries are at least 2000mAh's capacity per battery (which would mean about 2000mAh's at 3 volts in series), I should get over two hours of run time!

That's much better than 2 X 14500's in parallel. (which would be approximately 1200 or 1400mAh's - never the stated capacity)

After playing with it tonight for at least 30 minutes of total run time, I checked the power and it is still very steady at 140 to 150mW's!

So I will be staying with the 2 X AA, 3 volt supply. And again, this is perfect for a FlexDrive blu-ray build as well!






Pat, I sent your Phaser heatsink fit for AixiZ today. (Saturday)

Hope your build goes well!


P.S. I ordered a 12X!

lmao for the sound effects. that's really great Jay.

There are two choices for different sounds...

It's amazing how much it adds to the fun of pointing a laser!

Check out the progress on my 12X Star Trek Phaser! (with safety switch)
Tutorial: 12X Star Trek Phaser Mod!