Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

FS: Key Chain CR2 Build Kit! - SCHWEET!

Igor, I sent your package today. (Wednesday)

It has the Key Chain CR2's, the Key chain 10280, your custom key chain, the diode removal tool, the Romisen green modification, and the two custom CR123 host heatsinks.

Hope it all gets there safe!
 
Last edited:





This little guy has become my personal laser :)

As it's non-DPSS (and REALLY, REALLY small), I can throw it in a pocket (or in a bag's pocket) and not worry about it getting damaged (since it won't, it's as sturdy as it gets).

:D :D :D
 
Many Thanks to jayrob for the great CR2 kit! Here's my IgorT family of lasers collection with it's 2 new members!

1525-my-newest-2-igort-lasers-11-27-09.jpg
1523-igort-hand-laser-family-beams.jpg


In the bottom pic, all made for me by IgorT left to right, first 2 are new arrivals, jayrob CR2 kit built by IgorT with 6X, (GGW BR diode) and jayrob G-1 glass lens doing 225 mW, Rominsen by IgorT host same diode and lens type doing ~250 mW, Dorcy Jr w/ Max Mass D_H h.s. and PHR about 110 mW (by IgorT of course) , Rominsen w/ PHR ~ 110 mW, Dorcy Jr w/ LOC doing about 285 mW (also by IgorT of course). It's one big happy family! The 405's by Igor are such high quality builds when my friends ask to buy them, I tell them I'll get one made for them by Igor, but these are all mine!
 
Last edited:
I only now saw your email, Jay (just started with the cleanup - barelly got my main real-work customer off my back after two weeks of desparatelly trying to get some time off work)...



I must say, i like the looks of the new CR2 heatsink! :D
The bottom walls look pretty massive now! That's what i was hoping for, since 8x's produce quite a bit more heat and huge power is an amazing thing to have in such tiny form!

Can't wait to get mine! ;)


P.S. It's probably worth mentioning, that while it may be a slight improovement on one hand, it might not be suitable for beginners, so it's good both versions are available...

This type of build requires a lot of precision when soldering the driver to the diode... The driver has to be leaning directly onto the AixiZ module (you don't want the spring to exert pressure onto the diode pins), and something has to support it from the sides to prevent it from bending back and forth, which would eventually result in breaking the diode pins.

Some kind of foam around the driver is a good idea! And as much as i don't like glueing drivers in place, i might not have a choice here.
It will make an awesome laser. I love the original version i have here, need to show you how i made the drivers stay put there.. :yh:



P.P.S. Glenn, i think there is something wrong with the powers you wrote... :thinking:
Both your GGWs are over 200mW with plastic lens. The power with Jay's 405-G-1 should be around >255mW for the CR2 and >265mW for the Romisen (how much exactly depends on wavelength in both cases - i used the 1.26 factor due to the fact that you got longer wl. diodes in there).
 
Last edited:
IgorT said:
....

P.P.S. Glenn, i think there is something wrong with the powers you wrote... :thinking:
Both your GGWs are over 200mW with plastic lens. The power with Jay's 405-G-1 should be around >255mW for the CR2 and >265mW for the Romisen (how much exactly depends on wavelength in both cases - i used the 1.26 factor due to the fact that you got longer wl. diodes in there).
Click to expand...

You are likely right on Igor, but I thought my Kenom LPM was reading further off than it must be, I actually read the Rominsen at 270 mW and the CR2 at 250, but I thought I should state a conservative output anyway. -Glenn
 
Just got the package, Jay...


Love everything inside it! You did an amazing job!

Everything is a snug fit, exactly the way i like it! :yh:
I was hoping it would come out like that, but was a little afraid to request it specifically, cos i knew it would take extra time. :whistle:

But thank you for taking that time and making it all perfect! :bowdown:


I am also amazed at the tiny sleeve you created to hold the AixiZ module in that weird Keychain host of mine...

The AixiZ module is a press fit in it, and the sleeve itself is a press fit in the keychain host head! Couldn't possibly be better!


Awesome work as always! :yh:
 
Glad you like your items Igor! :)

And thanks for the compliments. I appreciate it! Because I did spend extra time getting the tight tolerances that you asked for...

Just for the record, for others to know, I don't normally fit AixiZ modules for a 'press fit'. But they slide into the heatsink, and then the set screw will hold them tight in the heatsink.

The thing is, if I fit them for a press fit, then I would get complaints that some modules will not fit the heatsink.

Just had to make that known for others. Igor has separated his AixiZ modules that differ in size by tolerances of less than one thousandth of an inch.

When he builds you a laser, it will be a work of art...
 
Last edited:
TOGGI3, just to let you know that I sent your Key Chain CR2 kit (style 2) today. (Tuesday)

Your other items are in the package as well...

Please post back to let me know how your build goes with Igor's design heatsink!

:thanks:
 
Last edited:
The more I look at what this build entails the more I appreciate what a great kit it is. I cant wait until I get my diode so I can begin work on it.

The only thing I am confused about looking at the build is how the driver contacts the battery in style 2. I assume unlike style 1, style 2 does not make use of the board that is typically stripped of it's components.

in style 2 despite the driver being soldered directly to the diode there appears to be no room to make use of the board that came with the host.

I am guessing I have to connect the battery to the driver positive and the driver negative soldered to I suppose the back of the heatsink to be clamped down by the retaining ring? Should I use a spring attached to the driver? That seems to make the most sense to me..

Thanks in advance for any input/advice. It just didnt seem apparent to me in the documentation for the build.
 
Correct... with style 2, you will not use the circuit board.

There will just be enough room for a 'shorter' RCR2 rechargeable battery. (the 3.6/4.2 or the 3.7/4.2 ones will work)

The 3.0/3.6 ones are a little longer for some reason. I don't recommend those for style 2...

You will solder a small contact point to the driver. Do this part, taking up as little room as possible. Perhaps by just a thin wire soldered through the FlexDrive positive input, and bent over the edge of the board. That is where your battery positive will make contact.

The negative contact to the FlexDrive will come from the diode case pin. If it's a red build, then this will be automatic, since the diode case pin, is the diode negative, and will be connected to the driver.

With a blu-ray build, you will simply solder the diode case pin to the diode negative pin, and then connect to the driver. (this is fine for a FlexDrive, since both negative contact points on the FlexDrive are continuous)

Also, make sure the driver is fixed solid. Maybe with some glue to the module, as well as some hard foam or some other material on the sides to keep it from pushing side to side. It must be pressing against the module, not the pins. Make sure nothing is 'shorting' to the module or heatsink.

And cut the tail spring shorter to lessen the pressure it would put against the driver...
 
Last edited:
This build was super easy, I am very pleased with it. I am waiting on a shorter rcr2 battery however. I've already built and tested it, too bad theres not enough room for a normal cr2 battery in style 2, ohwell. Might I suggest jayrob that the style 2 heatsinks protrude slightly to provide enough room inside? =]

I love this kit on the whole though.

Would these batteries work out well?

Ultrafire Rechargeable CR2 15266 3.6v Li-ion Battery x2 - eBay (item 370237385339 end time Dec-26-09 14:39:22 PST)
 
Last edited:
just to clarify these are shorter than what comes with the host? If it isnt too much trouble, by about how much? if not significantly shorter I may have to figure something else out. Thanks.
 
They are at least .5mm shorter...

For the 'style 2' build, it should work, that is if you also cut your tail cap spring very short. And also make sure your driver is up against the module, and not to have too 'thick' of a battery contact point at the driver. (pretty much any battery works with style 1, but for style 2, you will want this 'short' battery)
RCR2 Unprotected Rechargeable Lithium Battery

KCR220.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top