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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: Key Chain CR2 Build Kit! - SCHWEET!

Re: FS: Key Chain CR2 Kit! - SCHWEET!

:crackup: Ha ha!

That's because you built it Igor! That's why it won't die...
 





Re: FS: Key Chain CR2 Kit! - SCHWEET!

jayrob said:
:crackup: Ha ha!

That's because you built it Igor! That's why it won't die...
Click to expand...

Haha.. I wish it was that easy... :D
But it's like these diodes are messing with me!

I built it with the specific purpose, or rather two:
1. To test the limits of the heatsinking...
2. To kill the diode and put a blu-ray in...

This is not the first time i built a laser with the purpose of killing a diode, and the diode just won't oblige, simply to spite me...
One such laser is in the hands of FrancoRob - a Long Closed Can at 520mA doing <320mW through an AR acrylic lens.
It wouldn't die in my hands, so i asked Franco to kill it for me. And from what i can tell he didn't manage yet... :yabbem:

Maybe from now on, every time i build a laser, i should tell the diode i want it to die, just so it wont? :crackup:
 
Re: FS: Key Chain CR2 Kit! - SCHWEET!

This kit rocks out with it's cock out....Sorry I love it. It is the best looking kit that jayrob has put out IMO. Well worth every penny.

img01893880250.jpg

img01923889240.jpg

img01913886204.jpg

img01903883313.jpg
 
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Re: FS: Key Chain CR2 Kit! - SCHWEET!

Cool pictures! :cool:

Thanks for posting! :)

One thing to note about the EzFocus adapter. I'm sure that Dave must have pressed the diode all the way into the module, past the 'flush' point, and that's why the gap is a little big between the adapter and the host...

I took my measurements for this from one of my builds, which is a 'flush pressed' diode.

I have always pressed them this way. Although it is a little better for the heat transfer if you press them all the way in, it still works just find with a 'flush press'...
 
Re: FS: Key Chain CR2 Kit! - SCHWEET!

It sits flush. This is just the position it sits when it is focused to infinity.
 
Re: FS: Key Chain CR2 Kit! - SCHWEET!

Oh ok cool... :cool:

By the way, let me explain why I measure these for a 'flush' pressed diode.

It is because if I measured for a 'minimal gap' between the EzFocus adapter and the host with a diode pressed all the way into the module (past the 'flush' point), then there would be people who could not get focus.

This way, everybody gets focus. :) And the people who press their diodes all the way in, will just have a little larger gap is all...
 
Re: FS: Key Chain CR2 Kit! - SCHWEET!

Niko, I'm sending your Key Chain CR2 today. Along with the Meredith and 405-G-1 glass lens modifications. Extra battery too. (Wednesday)

Hope you like them! :)
 
Re: FS: Key Chain CR2 Kit! - SCHWEET!

jayrob said:
Niko, I'm sending your Key Chain CR2 today. Along with the Meredith and 405-G-1 glass lens modifications. Extra battery too. (Wednesday)

Hope you like them! :)
Click to expand...

Thanks man! I'm pretty sure they're gonna be awesome :)
 
Here's a picture of them together:

KCR218.jpg


Both are small. The Key Chain CR2 is smaller in diameter, and length as well...
 
My label printer is made by brother. Model PT-1010. It can use TZ tape. I like the black tape with white lettering...

I don't make the laser warning labels. I bought them from andy_con, and he does not make them anymore. But the few that I have left, I am keeping for personal use.
 
My 405-G-1, Meredith Glass Lens (Fit for Aixiz) & Keychain CR2 arrived today!


Exceptionally built, the lenses are clean and the design is simply effective :)

(On a side note, Jay, I think you should consider adding a "Teflon Option" on all your lenses. I'm pretty sure many people would like their lenses to come with teflon tape around the threads already fit for a no-spring assembly).

The Keychain CR2 has the best clicky of all time (insert Kanye West meme), it has a satisfactory click sound and feel, yet it's hard enough to press so you'll be 100% sure it won't get accidentally turned on inside your pocket. And I want to stress "pocket", since I didn't imagine it would be so small, it's actually around 0,7mm shorter than a regular sized <1mW red crapointer. The threading on the tailcap is really smooth. Don't be fooled by the small size of the host, it is NOT even near of what I'd call cheaply constructed. AT ALL.



Chuck Norris approves of this!

chuck_norris_approved.jpg
 
Glad you like it Niko... and the lenses too.

Thanks for the great job you did on my banners! :)
 
Update:

I have another heatsink design for this build. This is Igor's heatsink design that I will offer as a choice in this build kit. (leave it to Igor to improve my design) :gj:

I will offer both designs because some may be more comfortable with the one or the other building styles.

With style 1, you will be using fine wire to make the driver connections.

With style 2, you will be connecting your FlexDrive directly to the diode pins... (and not using the round circuit board in the build)

KCR219.jpg



So now you have a choice of how you want to assemble this Key Chain CR2 build! :)

The advantages of the style 2 build, are this:

* Better contact from the heatsink to the host, because you will tighten the retaining ring against the heatsink. (more heatsink mass as well)
* Not having to de-solder the components off of the stock board. (but I would say more difficult to solder the driver directly to the pins)


Tips for style 2:

* Make sure the driver is fixed solid. Maybe with some glue to the module, as well as some hard foam or some other material on the sides to keep it from pushing side to side. It must be pressing against the module, not the pins. Make sure nothing is 'shorting' to the module or heatsink.
* Cut the tail spring shorter to lessen the pressure it would put against the driver...
* With style 2, there will just be enough room for a 'shorter' RCR2 rechargeable battery. (the 3.6/4.2 or the 3.7/4.2 ones will work)
The 3.0/3.6 ones are a little longer for some reason. I don't recommend those for style 2...
* You will solder a small contact point to the driver. Do this part, taking up as little room as possible. Perhaps by just a thin wire soldered through the FlexDrive positive input, and bent over the edge of the board. That is where your battery positive will make contact.
* The negative contact to the FlexDrive will come from the diode case pin. If it's a red build, then this will be automatic, since the diode case pin, is the diode negative, and will be connected to the driver. With a blu-ray build, you will simply solder the diode case pin to the diode negative pin, and then connect to the driver. This is fine for a FlexDrive, since both negative contact points on the FlexDrive are continuous...




Shortest Batteries:

Buy these ones:
RCR2 Unprotected Rechargeable Lithium Battery

They are the shortest I believe...

Lighthound ships really fast too!




I am offering both styles in case some are not comfortable with soldering directly to the diode pins.
 
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