- Joined
- May 10, 2011
- Messages
- 1,878
- Points
- 48
Yep tj ya could you got one?
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I'm getting started on these.
Placed the order for the PCBs.
With permission from Ben and RHD of course.
I'm starting with 100 and we'll see how it goes from there.
Have to figure out which resistors to get. I don't want to have to buy 30 different set resistors, so i'm gonna shoot for like 5 "common" outputs
Yep tj ya could you got one?
Its only a quarts toaster oven with a micro controller. $100 investment.
:beer:...
No I don't think so... it would be cheaper to do that with
a Shottky diode...
There seems to be another issue but I'll wait for a reply first...
I could be wrong...
Jerry
It is for reverse polarity protection. If you don't want it all you have to do is not put it on and solder a jumper across to top pins (the 3 pins on the opposite side of the dot).
It may be cheaper to use a diode, but that diode will drop a lot more voltage and will get very hot considering it would have a max of 2.8A going through it. The mosfet will drop <0.1v, so it is a lot more efficient.
Moh:
I was going to find some good resistor combinations and post them, but it looks like you got it figured out already.
As to toaster ovens, I just use the cheapest one I could find in walmart which was like $10-15.
tsteele, everyone hates pot modding cheap green lasers. Having an adjustable driver doesn't mean it's a "pot mod". This driver isn't adjustable because it's not needed here. It would only add to the size, price, and complexity of the driver.
dayumm i'd be interested =D for $15
If it is only for voltage protection then I would reverse the
connections of Q1... They are reversed for a P-Channel Mosfet
transistor. Unless you've found a trick that I'm not aware of..
The Source (S) needs to go towards the +V Input and the
Drain (D) needs to go towards the circuit it is protecting.
As it is the it seems that the protection diode in the Mosfet
transistor between the drain and source is doing the only
polarity protection...
Jerry