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FrozenGate by Avery

First build: Survival Lasers 650nm

hazerkitten

hazerkitten

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Joined
Mar 20, 2013
Messages
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Hello all,

My name is Jon but you can all call me Haze if you'd like.

I've always had a fascination with lasers and was all too familiar with what wicked lasers offered (wow, they're products sure have changed). On a whim, I recently went to fry's and got a 5mw green laser (532nm). My cat has a blast with it and it's actually quite good for pointing at stars and stuff but I really wanted something with more juice.

First I placed an order on DX and bought another 5mw greenie and a 20mw diode for it just to "tinker" with it. I must say although they seem like a solid company, screw ordering stuff from China. I hope it gets here one of these days =X

After doing some more reading on LPF I came across Survival Lasers and it was exactly what I wanted. It's a shame they can't sell you complete lasers but to be honest, I'm very excited to build my first "powerful" laser.

I ordered the C6 host with Red aluminum heatsink, 450ma Pill and driver, Coated lens, and extended black annodized focus. I also ordered an LPC826 in Aixiz module from Hightechdealz.com

Any thoughts or opinions on my choices?

The Survival Laser package should be here tomorrow and I expect HTD to arrive friday.. I will post pics asap!!

(PS. This is my first post, sorry if I rambled on a bit)

UPDATE: Pics

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IMG_6915_zpsb96109b9.jpg

IMG_6911_zpsaf013a1c.jpg

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Good luck on your build. Feel free to post a link to the particular item you ordered. It will provide reference to the other members.

I've not yet built a greenie. I'll be interested in seeing how the build goes for you.
 
Scum- I assume you are referring to the cheap DX laser because the Survival build is a red diode. I will gladly take a ton of pictures of unboxing, build, etc along with part numbers.

Jake- You got it
 
Can't go wrong with survival lasers. Just which I had a source for that S4 host. That thing is damn sexy, and one of my favorites to build with.
 
Source for the S4 host? I agree it is a nice host but the C6 isn't too bad either ;) I almost got the S4 since it was only $10 more but I wanted to save a LITTLE money lol. I really want to build a blue laser but I'm a little deterred from all the dangers I hear from them
 
Would it be a safe bet to say that I should be around the 250-300mw range with this setup?
 
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Haze, high powered blues are just like any other possibly dangerous device. Treat it with respect, remember your safety protocols, don't f-around with it. If you follow those rules, and always wear eye protection when required, and you will be fine.

But, by all means, if you don't trust yourself, then don't go near one; You're not ready.

I'm not certain of the efficiency of your particular diode, but your estimate sounds reasonable. Do a search for driver efficiencies here in the forums. I'm sure you'll find an answer.
 
I just built a laser with a lpc-826 too. I used this components if you want to get some inspiration:

- Module: Copper Module for 5.6mm Diodes - $4.50 : Mohgasm LLC, Have you experienced one lately? $4,5 (I gave $2 because of GB)

- Host, driver and heat sink: Mohgasm JAD kit (included host, heatsink and driver).. I know he isn't selling this atm but try to take a look at his page: "I plan to bring back the C6 JAD kits once we have C6 copper heatsinks and focus adapters.." 25$

- Lens: 2~5mW Dot Laser Module (3V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme You only need the lens from it or you can use the module too if you don't want the copper one. $3.40

Total: $32,9

Picture of it:
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Alright!!

So I came home from work today to find 3 packages in my mailbox.. it felt like Christmas time! One from Dealextreme, Survival Lasers, and Hightechdealz.

DX: I got 5mw green pen and a 10mw diode/driver. I already have an Alpec 5mw green laser pointer so I compared the two. HOLY CRAP. After using the DX I dont even want to use the Alpec which was 3x the price! I can only guess but the output on this DX has to be a minimum of 10mw upwards of 20mw!! It is DRASTICALLY brighter.. beam during day and all. Interestingly, this pen "ramps up" power over a second or two from 5mw to what seems like 20mw.. normal?
I also hooked up the 10mw module to a 3.7v surefire battery and it works like a charm. I also noticed the "pot" but decided to leave it alone for now. My goal is to put it in the DX pointer but I wouldnt be surprised if they use the same module!

Hightechdealz: Diode and module seem perfect, no complaints here. Came with LPC826, aixiz module, lens, focus, and spring. I would buy from Kendall again when I decide to build a blue

SurvivalLasers: WOWOWOWOWOW. I am blown away at the quality of everything I ordered (minus the battery charger but hey, its a frickin battery charger and seems to work fine). The C6 host is one sexy piece of hardware and the red heatsink totally sets it off. All the threads throughout are perfect.
The lens and extended focus all fit on the aixiz module so I anticipate a very smooth build.

Questions: My main question is about soldering the diode to the pill/driver. How do I know which of the wires coming from the pill are positive and negative? (they arent the typical red and black). The 3 "prongs" on the back of the diode are good length and I was wondering what I should do to the 3rd one which is unused.. cut it off?

Also, which size/type of solder do you all use for such small jobs? How long does it take to do a full charge for the 18650 batteries?

PICS TO COME BEFORE I START ASSEMBLY, Thanks for your help!
 
Diodes: Not knocking hightechdealz, but I love DTR's diodes with copper modules. Don't know what they cost there, but I am quite happy with the products AND the service from DTR.

You can use your DMM to test the leads on the pill with the battery and pill installed in the host. Charge time will depend on the charger and the battery capacity.

When you identify the IR pin, you can nip it short. I like to cover mine with shrink tubing.
You can trim the other leads if you must to make everything fit and stable.

If you tin your leads well, you should have enough solder to make a "wet" joint. If for whatever reason mine are still dry, I use a .25mm 60/40 soldering wire. That's a preference of mine, but not necessary.

Get those pics up son! And don't forget to edit for cleanliness... :beer:
 
You can't go wrong with Survival Laser. Gary is a first class guy with top quality products and super fast shipping. Good luck with your build.
 
I figured out the pos/neg by simply putting an LED diode to it. Blue is positive.

Do you nip your IR pin AND heat shrink it or just heat shrink it?

I think I understand you scum, I should put solder on the wires from the driver and simply reheat while touching the diode pin? "tinning the leads".. please do correct me if I am wrong.

The pics will come tomorrow as I want to buy a micro soldering iron and some smaller solder. Those pins are frickin tiny!! Any other tips are appreciated.

Cut IR pin, tin the driver leads, attach pos and neg to diode, heat shrink it.. sound about right?
 
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Haze, it's perhaps easier to first shrink wrap then clip, but not necessary. You just don't want to use it and don't want it to short.

You've got the idea about soldering. DO NOT FORGET to short your driver output contacts to short the capacitors. You do NOT want to overvolt that diode! And, while we are at it, be sure to follow all ESD precautions! You certainly don't want to LED your diode from something so silly as static.

Try to twist your wire strands tightly before tinning and use flux. If you keep them clean enough, you can still insert the tinned strand into the contact holes on your driver board. This will give you the most reliable connection.

It's early and I haven't had my coffee yet...I hope I covered it all.

Brian
 
hazerkitten said:
I figured out the pos/neg by simply putting an LED diode to it. Blue is positive.
Click to expand...


You can also check as neg should be continuous, if they havent changed from Moh linears...DMM on neg to pill or neg to neg should give a reading.

hazerkitten said:
Do you nip your IR pin AND heat shrink it or just heat shrink it?
Click to expand...

AFAIK there is no IR pin on an LPC-826. It is solely a red diode. The extra pin is not used you can snip it and/or heatshrink it.

hazerkitten said:
The pics will come tomorrow as I want to buy a micro soldering iron and some smaller solder. Those pins are frickin tiny!! Any other tips are appreciated.
Click to expand...


Use nail clippers to snip the pin ;) :beer:
 
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