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FrozenGate by Avery

Efest IMR 14500






Re: Efest IMR 10440

14500. pay attention to the ebay listing, not Pman's title typo :D :D
 
Re: Efest IMR 10440

OOPS, I accidentally wrote 10440 in both the title and message but only changed one of them. Fixed.
Efest also sells the 10440 IMR cells (I own lots of them) and suspect they are quite good also. Not so easy to find decent 10440 from what I've seen. Both are great for those pen builds.
Yes this is an older test and something may have changed:
http://ukvapers.org/Thread-IMR-14500-Batteries-Efest-v-AW
As with most batteries there's people who swear by them and others not so much. $3.50 each for a decent cell is way less than legit AW IMR (and yes I have them also). Ever since the AW started to be counterfeited the authentic ones tend to be hocked for a premium.
 
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The issue with Chinese knock offs OF Chinese knock offs has gotten a bit (more) out of hand.

The best way is to get a few more than you need (Assuming they were cheap ENOUGH to justify it...), and cut some open when you get them.

Its about the only way to tell what you have.

Obviously, when the wrapper is off, you can look at the end plates for signs of the prong scars from previously being in a laptop pack and other signs that it wasn't new.

You can view the wound guts to see how dense it is, or if there was a coupla AAA cells inside, etc.

You can see if (Protected) the protection is real, such as vents that could vent, and PCB, etc...or cosmetic.

And so forth.

After that, if you have a hobby tester, etc, you could see the capacity and resistance, etc....and check the UN-dissected ones against that.

And so forth.

:D



HJK has some excellent reviews, and he recently did a dissection with pics:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?400136-Disassembly-of-some-UltraFire-batteries

Check it out.

:D
 
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Yes I've seen those kind of reviews over and over and messed with a few myself. People need to be made aware of how dangerous it can be to open ANY lithium battery though. Get just the tiniest drop of water on lithium and you might suddenly burn your house down. I'm not keen on telling anyone to cut their batteries open without taking major precaution first.
There's been many threads about counterfeits but some people choose to remain ignorant. One of the simplest ways to tell is just weigh the cell out in comparison to known authentic cells. I've always found the counterfeits to weigh less.
 
Pman said:
People need to be made aware of how dangerous it can be to open ANY lithium battery though. Get just the tiniest drop of water on lithium and you might suddenly burn your house down. I'm not keen on telling anyone to cut their batteries open without taking major precaution first.
Click to expand...

Are you serious? I didn't know that, thanks for that warning. Now I guess someone will go and test that to see how dangerous it is, whoever you are, do it outside in a safe place. I myself have no interest in destroying perfectly good batteries.

Alan
 
Let's just say I had an "incident" when taking one apart that I will never forget and have no plans on ever doing it again inside the house if anywhere. I had taken a few apart before but this particular instance I didn't see the single drop of water from my foot on the linoleum just under where I unrolled the lithium. The result was multiple holes in it that are now covered with a throw rug. The whole incident was rather shocking. Good luck putting out lithium once it starts to burn and you are unprepared.
All I can say is the linoleum was ugly to begin with and at least was in my office/laundry room where no one really goes. Not much consolation but I'll take it.
 
Great deal, but I don't have anything that uses a 14500.
What hosts are these being used in?

Mine seem to either be 18650, 10440, 18350 or 16350.

I have a 32650 that seems dead, I was tempted to take it apart, but now i"m not so sure.
 
I have quite a number of units that use them or are going to use them. They make an interesting size unit with basically double the runtime of a 10440. I like to have extra cells of just about anything I may build. Nothing over 26650 for me so far. Also use lots of 10440/14500 in LiFEPo4 for 3.2/3.7 full charge builds where 4.2V or doubled 8.4V is pushing it. Lately I've used them for LPC826 builds with a $3 aixiz driver where I turn the pot past the stop and 2 10440s would end up over driving the diode and blow them. With a LiFEPo4 it's driven on the edge and hit just over 400mW with a G2 although I just use the acrylic and still get well over 300 (more like 320-350). Lots of Altoid box kind of builds and 1 pen so far. What other $6 diode can do that?
You can also get a $3.50 bluray diode and use the same driver to get 150mW of 405nm;)
After all that I would say that the 14500 isnt used as often as the other sizes just like 18490/500.
 
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Pman said:
I have quite a number of units that use them or are going to use them. They make an interesting size unit with basically double the runtime of a 10440. I like to have extra cells of just about anything I may build. Nothing over 26650 for me so far. Also use lots of 10440/14500 in LiFEPo4 for 3.2/3.7 full charge builds where 4.2V or doubled 8.4V is pushing it. Lately I've used them for LPC826 builds with a $3 aixiz driver where I turn the pot past the stop and 2 10440s would end up over driving the diode and blow them. With a LiFEPo4 it's driven on the edge and hit just over 400mW with a G2 although I just use the acrylic and still get well over 300 (more like 320-350). Lots of Altoid box kind of builds and 1 pen so far. What other $6 diode can do that?
You can also get a $3.50 bluray diode and use the same driver to get 150mW of 405nm;)
After all that I would say that the 14500 isnt used as often as the other sizes just like 18490/500.
Click to expand...


Only thing I know of that uses 32650 are the jayrob style maglite builds. But very good run time :)

I have over a dozen LPC815's sitting around waiting to be built. SO----->
Are these the drivers you are talking about?

2pcs constant current laser diode driver 80-500mA w/TTL, AixiZ
 
Pman said:
Yes I've seen those kind of reviews over and over and messed with a few myself. People need to be made aware of how dangerous it can be to open ANY lithium battery though. Get just the tiniest drop of water on lithium and you might suddenly burn your house down. I'm not keen on telling anyone to cut their batteries open without taking major precaution first.
There's been many threads about counterfeits but some people choose to remain ignorant. One of the simplest ways to tell is just weigh the cell out in comparison to known authentic cells. I've always found the counterfeits to weigh less.
Click to expand...

PRIMARY lithium cells have lithium metal, but RECHARGEABLE Lithium ion cells do not have any lithium metal - its just ions...already wet ions at that.

There is a flammable electrolyte though...under the wrong circumstances.

The strip down the side and the PCB, if you don't take it apart carefully, can short and get REALLY HOT, really FAST though.

:D

Was it a primary that did that to you? Or was it the short, or sparked electrolyte, etc?
 
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Yes those Aixiz drivers are the ones. They can be a pain though as they are longer than the aluminum covers that screw onto the diode heatsinks so you have to cut the back end off so it can stick through. You can of course just build stuff like altoids tins (or similar) like I and others have done so you don't have to mount them at all. I just built a couple more 3 LPC826 with them into (2) C6 and a Coleman host. The C6's have double long front sections to fit them. I'll be posting all of them soon. 1 is 250mW+ and the other 2 are 300mW+ with standard acrylic lenses. I have one more to build but I ran out of drivers but did order 4 more.
Also have 2 of the super cheap blu-ray ones ready to go into builds. They put out about 130mW or so with the same acrylic lenses. You just set the drivers to 150mA (I would not go higher) with your test load (6 diodes).
I can get 300mW - 400mW depending on lens from the 826 and that driver by turning the pot just past its stop as it then becomes variable with voltage. The only thing is you can't use (2) standard 3.7-4.2V lithiums as you will blow the diode. Need to use 3.2-3.7V cells such as the LiFEPo4, RCR123A 3.0V or CR123A which I have about 35 of that just sit around. The (2) C6 builds are using the RCR123A but you need to be careful your charger doesn't take them up to 4.2V or you will blow the diode.

I had the unwound roll of lithium hit a drop of water, tried to smother it and it burned right through the rag and broke into pieces burning lots of deep holes into the linoleum. Funny how that area is now covered in a throw rug;)

I was also going to post the links to 405nm and 650nm pens that I bought from a US Ebay seller I had used in the past who sold WAY overspec units with the correct lenses for making them fully focusable like in my tutorial but he just changed the prices because he must have realized they were priced too low. Bought them for $2.69 each with free shipping and they are the same good ones (405nm at 70mW and 650nm at 105mW). I know he changed the price of the 405nm to $4 and removed the 650nm listing. Will have to look at his listing again to find out whats what if anyone wants to know.
 
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