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FrozenGate by Avery

Ebay BR pens






As the OP id really rate them as being ~50mW, and mine, with magnifying lenses does burn some black stuff...doesnt light matches though...and u can feel the warmth if u point it to ur lips.

and if they are realy 50mW, they look like the ones DX sells for 30 something $ if im not wrong (will check and edit later) but without the fancy box. they come in an envelope, along with the batteries.
 
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at least it is for me...i can see it clearly...But id also like to get to my university, or get a difraction grating to measure its wavelength. Cuz i think i got one 'overspec' in that matter.
 
my ebay BR pen just died on me. I was using it and it started to go dim and I thought it was the batteries so I checked them and they are still very good. I replaced the batteries and it was still dim, then it went out completely. I did use it a lot, but never for long periods of on time. Ive had it for about one month.

Pete
 
As the OP id really rate them as being ~50mW, and mine, with magnifying lenses does burn some black stuff...doesnt light matches though...and u can feel the warmth if u point it to ur lips.

and if they are realy 50mW, they look like the ones DX sells for 30 something $ if im not wrong (will check and edit later) but without the fancy box. they come in an envelope, along with the batteries.

:scared:
 
my ebay BR pen just died on me. I was using it and it started to go dim and I thought it was the batteries so I checked them and they are still very good. I replaced the batteries and it was still dim, then it went out completely. I did use it a lot, but never for long periods of on time. Ive had it for about one month.

Pete

Sorry to hear that- which seller? altho they most likely all get them from the some maker- mine(5) took 2 weeks to USA (Tx)-no box or batts.on the clip it reads *LASER POINTER*-rows of four 'dimples' just below the clip.with energizer lithiums 44mW (approx) seller was etime(IIRC)-....................................................................-anyone know if a slip-on heatsink would be useful/make any difference- on one of these?...D/R cycle??...................I guess since its dead you can try your hand at getting it apart- I think Yobresal posted that its not easy. Let us know- a lot of members got or are getting them. Any guestimate of the tot. hours and how long is a 'long period' by your standards. thanks--HZ
 
I've ran through 3 sets of batteries on one of them.

I did have a problem with it going dark if I pointed it straight up (weird) So I tired to take it apart. I got as far as the pressed in diode housing and the board (got the front cap off and the rubber washer on the inside) but couldn't get the board or diode to move without more force than I was willing to give.

ANYWAY, I put it back together and the beam problem is gone and as noted, I'm on 4th set of batteries with no issues. One of them I put in - mounted on a tripod with a clamp and ran it until it died (batteries). So it still seems stable for the moment on this one.

Also, I've checked on the LPM-1 meter a number of times. Output has not dropped since I got it.
 
mine hasnt given any problem yet...still in good shape...right now i dont have batts...dont have the charger here, and they are dead...oh well...no problem
 
I've ran through 3 sets of batteries on one of them.

I did have a problem with it going dark if I pointed it straight up (weird) So I tired to take it apart. I got as far as the pressed in diode housing and the board (got the front cap off and the rubber washer on the inside) but couldn't get the board or diode to move without more force than I was willing to give.

ANYWAY, I put it back together and the beam problem is gone and as noted, I'm on 4th set of batteries with no issues. One of them I put in - mounted on a tripod with a clamp and ran it until it died (batteries). So it still seems stable for the moment on this one.

Also, I've checked on the LPM-1 meter a number of times. Output has not dropped since I got it.

So I guess that answers my question about duty/rest cycle and added heatsinking-did you happen to note how long the batts. lasted and which ones did you use??thanks for the info,,HZ
 
New here:

I ordered 2 of these because, well, they look *so* cool. That said I'm 32 years old and like my sight so my question is: How should these be treated even though they are not "bright" (notice quotes. lol) to our eyes. I suspect (though don't know) it should be treated like a 50mw green and used outside away from reflective objects, or inside with proper goggles (and for cheap Chinese lasers, how do we know its only putting out its stated frequency and not unseen, dangerous light that goggles for that color won't protect against?)

The more I get into this the more I wish I had access to some way to measure power and spectrum from these things. On a lark I picked up an Amazon greenie that's supposed to be 50mw and after using it on a couple things over a couple of minutes (including a road sign a few hundred yards away, in the day. eek) I thought it seemed to be way more then the toy it was billed to be on Amazon (and amazing to see in the night sky as well). I then found this place and candlepower forums laser forum and discovered I had a proverbial loaded gun :eek: I built a cap for it, and keep the batteries out of it, and only use it outside (and carefully).

Its frightening to think how many of those have been picked up by parents/siblings and given to children to play with (there is no warning on hardly any of those amazon lasers!)

anyway, I'm way off topic already on my first post. sorry about that!
 
Greens are more dangerous than blue/violets. First, green lasers use an IR diode and uses some mirrors and optics to change it into 532 nm laser light. A 50mw green laser might have 500mw of IR. 405nm lasers (yours) don't need any conversion. They have no IR, just 405nm. Saying that, you still should take the same precautions using a 405nm or any laser for that matter.
 





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