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Easy Maglite P7 Mod! Nice...

jayrob

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Also, check out my new 1000 Lumen XM-L T6 Maglite Modification kit! Awesome!

http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-1000-lumen-xm-l-t6-maglite-modification-kit-parts-complete-flashlight-59581.html








I bought a drop in reflector/heatsink/driver/P7 module from DX and fit it into a 2D Maglite...



I'm using 2 X 5000mAh 32600 Li-Ion batteries for this bad boy.

Here's the P7 module:
DealExtreme: $22.28 SSC P7-C 2800mA LED Module with Copper Base (3.6V~8.4V)

Here's the batteries:
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=2708

Here's the charger you want for these large batteries:
Ultrafire WF-188 Charger for 14500 / 17500 / 18500 / 18650 / RCR123 3.7 volt Lithium Battery Charger




Details of this easy modification are shown in this 'picture tutorial'...




Switch removal and modification:

The switch needs to be removed. Then cut the center post that holds the stock bulb short.

Then solder on lead wires as shown in the pictures.










Fitting the reflector:

The reflector fits, but it sits a little higher than the stock reflector, so it would leave a gap between the retaining ring/bezel of the host, and the head unless some modification is done...





Machining the head down, also adds to the heatsinking. Because the thick aluminum reflector now gets pressed tight onto a bare metal edge of the head! :)







Battery prep:








Tail cap mod:

I modified the tail cap spring just because I wanted it to fit the 32600 Li-Ion batteries better. The stock spring position was a little too tight. The tail cap can be further modified if you wanted to fit 6000mAh 32650's...








Adding some extra heatsinking for the P7:

Since I like very much the way this easy build came out, and I think I got a nice P7 module, I went ahead and added some extra heatsinking for it! :)




Might as well make this bad boy a little more comfortable in it's new home!






Final assembly:

That's pretty much it! Then just put it together...









Current Draw: (measured at the tail)

* 1360mA's - Estimated run time between charges: 3 1/2 hours...

This P7 gives a little better throw than my two other P7 flashlights, with less battery current draw! (1360mA's)

Also, it is slightly brighter than my 2 X 18650 P7 build which is drawing 2.6 Amps.

This has me scratching my head... :thinking:

This mod is probably taking about 2.6 Amps to the emitter. But I just don't understand why my other P7, with 2 X 18650's is measuring 2.6 Amps at the tail?? Maybe my other one has a linear driver or something...

Oh well...

Hope you like this build! I know I do...





Beam shot:

The face of the cave on my pool where the steps are, is 60' away, and the very back corner at the fence is 85'... :)





Take a look at my XM-L T6 Maglite 'Stubby' (cut down to fit a single 32600) here!
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/f...tion-kit-parts-complete-flashlight-59581.html
 
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DTR

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Man you are doing a great job developing some high powered Mag Lights. Let me know when you get one that sets paper on fire from 10 feet.:crackup:
 

jayrob

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Ha ha!

Yeah those are cool... err, rather 'Hot'!

I'm more for usfulness and longer run times for a flashlight...

I've got plans and parts ordered for my up coming Mag D 'Stubby' that will be using a single 32600 (or 32650).

It will have a 3 mode driver that will run the XM-L T6 emitter at up to 1000 lumens. (or hopefully near that)

It should be maybe 2 or 3 hours run time on high. But on low, it would have a really long life with that battery! And still be plenty bright! :)

I'm going to make a custom mount for the Maglite D 'Stubby' shown here: (my Q5 prototype will go over 4 1/2 hours on high, and over 30 hours on low!)
http://laserpointerforums.com/f66/fs-maglite-stubby-kit-large-li-ion-32600-a-59018.html

The custom mount will be similar to this: (except it will have a post to mount the emitter on, and a driver cavity. All in a one piece unit) :cool:

 
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lazeerer

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Sweet. That thing lights up your Living area Like sunlight.:)

Well it could be a different Bined P7 witch is brighter so yea thats always a good thing.

Nice chunky heatsink I bet the light doesn't even get hot.:)

:gj: As always.
 

Prototype

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It's most likely an older bin, the older P7s had cloudy domes. It's still a powerful light nonetheless.
 

randomlugia

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You probably already know this, but did you double the current draw that you read? With twice the voltage you only need half the amps. If you did the brightness confuses me too. This looks nice. :D Can't wait for that XM-L to be done! I'm also ordering my first soon.

Proto, I noticed the cloudy dome too. Though it isn't a bad thing, the only thing I can tell that's different about it is you get more flood and less throw. What really surprises me is how far this one throws! The cloudy P7 I have is basically a floodlight.

EDIT: About that reflector, could you just use a large o-ring and not machine anything? For us poor folk who don't have lathes...
 

jayrob

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It's most likely an older bin, the older P7s had cloudy domes. It's still a powerful light nonetheless.

Cloudy dome? Do you mean the lens over the emitter? If so, it's just the angle of the camera or something...

I held the flashlight under my desk light, so maybe there was a reflection or something. Here's a clear picture of the emitter:

I updated the first post with a better picture...






You probably already know this, but did you double the current draw that you read? With twice the voltage you only need half the amps. If you did the brightness confuses me too. This looks nice. :D Can't wait for that XM-L to be done! I'm also ordering my first soon.

Proto, I noticed the cloudy dome too. Though it isn't a bad thing, the only thing I can tell that's different about it is you get more flood and less throw. What really surprises me is how far this one throws! The cloudy P7 I have is basically a floodlight.

EDIT: About that reflector, could you just use a large o-ring and not machine anything? For us poor folk who don't have lathes...


I'm very excited about the XM-L T6 emitter too! Thanks for telling me about it!

Edit: Here's the XM-L T6 build:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/f...tion-kit-parts-complete-flashlight-59581.html

I got e-mails this morning that the emitters have shipped. Same for the drivers! :)

I'm going to make a custom heatsink/mount for the emitter. That will have a driver cavity, and be able to mount into the Maglite barrel similar to my Q5 mod shown at the bottom of the first post in this thread. But it will be a one piece design. I think it will be awesome...

I can't believe the efficiency that I have been reading about! A Q5 will give about 220 lumens at 1 Amp. But the XM-L T6 is supposed to give 386 lumens at 1 Amp with a forward voltage of less than 3 volts...

That's 75% more output with the same current!!!

I'm going to be testing two different configurations using the large capacity 32600 Li-Ion batteries:

* A single 32600 (or 32650) build using this driver: (Maglite D 'Stubby)
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1845

* And a 2 X 32600 build using this driver: (Maglite 2D)
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1866

I'll make known the results in my up coming thread about these flashlight mods! :cool:

About the P7 mod... If you don't machine the head down on the P7 mod, then you will have about a 2.5mm gap between the bezel ring and the head. It won't screw down all the way... (but it will still screw on, and hold the P7 module in place)

So if you want it to screw on all the way, and look nice, the lip on the head must be shortened. I can do it on the lathe in just a few minutes. I can grip the head from the inside. So as not to scratch the finish... (but I would think it's best to have the new reflector/P7 module on hand - to get the fit just right)

Please tell me more on what you mentioned about 'twice the voltage, 1/2 the Amps'...

I'm not following this??

Only because I have a different P7 build that uses the same voltage. And I get 2.6 Amps current draw measured at the batteries.

So obviously it will depend on the driver. I'm thinking that the other one must have a linear driver...

I'm still loosing only 1360mA's from my batteries at full charge. (I did not double the reading. I'm taking my measurement between the batteries and the host)

In fact, I tried to test with a single Li-Ion on this P7 module from DX, and it would not light. Only with 2 X Li-Ion's...
 
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randomlugia

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But it still functions normally with the 2.5mm gap?

Technology has come so far since the Q5! Actually I think the R5 is more efficient at lower powers, so it's better for an EDC. When I say low I mean like <150 lumens. But are you sure that driving an XM-L at 3 amps is a good idea? I actually have no idea, but I haven't seen one driven that hard yet, and I know that the ideal current is either 2.6 or 2.8 (can't remember). How much did you pay for the emmiters?

LEDs work in terms of electrical power, current x voltage. So basically a P7 driven at 3A with 4.2V will have the same output as one driven at 1.5A with 8.4V. If it was driven at 3A with that much voltage, it would be the equivalent of a single cell @ 6A, and would probably blow or burn out quickly.

I've got both threads subscribed!
 
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jayrob

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Yes, still works without modification, but has a gap is all. (cosmetic)

I bought the XM-L T6 emitters here because I need them on a 14mm round board to fit through the Maglite reflector for focusing:
Cutter Electronics

They are about $10 bucks each. Let me know if you have a better source...

Check this data sheet: (it says they can be driven at 3 Amps)
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXM-L.pdf

But I'm guessing the driver won't really put out 3 Amps anyway... So it should be perfect! :)
 
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Prototype

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But are you sure that driving an XM-L at 3 amps is a good idea? I actually have no idea, but I haven't seen one driven that hard yet, and I know that the ideal current is either 2.6 or 2.8 (can't remember). How much did you pay for the emmiters?

These things are tough, this guy here took one to ~5.7A and it didn't even go that angry blue! :drool:
 

jayrob

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Hey I just got my Malkoff Drop-In Module for 3-6 D-Cell to fit Mag-Lite...It's not bad! It drops right into a Maglite barrel. See here:
Drop-In Module for 3-6 D-Cell to fit Mag-Lite [3-6 D-Cell Drop-In] - $69.00 : Malkoff Devices. Super bright, powerful LED modifications for flashlights, Super bright, powerful LED modifications for flashlights

I only tested it to do a comparison with my other lights and it has a steady current draw of 700mA's from a single Li-Ion battery. Looks like it's fairly brighter than a Q5 visually. But at only 700mA's instead of 1 Amp... (from a single Li-Ion)

It's just a single mode.

Personally, I'm favoring my Q5 set up because it has 3 modes...

But it's a nice set up. And the center spot is better than the Q5.

It cost me $69 dollars plus $8 dollars shipping...

If anybody wants to buy it from me, I'll let it go for $55 dollars plus $4 dollars shipping.

Just send me a PM if you want it!


Edit: SOLD
 
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randomlugia

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I think you should hold on to it... That's a really nice piece of equipment there. Just look a little bit deeper, build quality, tint, beam pattern, regulation - there are a lot of things that set quality electronics apart from 'made in China' production line stuff, and a lot of reasons why some people refuse to buy the latter. Brightness isn't everything.
 

jayrob

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By the way, I tested it with a single Li-Ion vs 2 X Li-Ion's because it is for 3 to 6 D Mag...

And it acted just like you said in a couple of posts above. Half the current draw with 2 batteries.

I just wonder why my 2 X 18650 P7 build is so strange in that it draws 2.6 Amps with 2 batteries?? It has to be a linear driver...

I mean there must be a driver in the Malkoff module right?
 
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