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FrozenGate by Avery

Easy Maglite P7 Mod! Nice...

Wow, those are cheaper than the 32600's. If I ever need some D-size high capacity cells I know where to look now. :D
 





By the way, I did some closer comparisons with the Malkoff module for 3-6 D-Cell...

Looks like it's fairly brighter than a Q5 visually. But at only 700mA's instead of 1 Amp... (from a single Li-Ion)

It's a nice set up! And the center spot is better than the Q5 as well.

So I have decided to keep it... It has a very nice dot and throw!

I put it into a modified Maglite that holds 2 X 4000mAh 26650's. (with a fiberglass sleeve for the batteries)

The current draw at the tail for the 2 Li-Ion set up, is 420mA's. This should give me over 9 hours run time between charges! :)
 
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So Im guessing the newer model Mags use the Star shaped internal wrenching bolts in the button switch? Couldnt feel anything with a 5/64 Hex.
 
Yep, then it's a star wrench. I don't know the exact size. But it's similar size to that 5/64 Hex. You'll just have to try a couple of different sizes...
 
So I went to the local auto part store and the smallest torx key they had was a T8. Still looked a bit large though and I didnt want tohave to buy the kit it came in for 16.99 to find out :P

Where did you guys get yours?
 
^^Go to Walmart. I got a hole set of of 16 Pieces for $2 dollars both S.A.E/Metric in the tool section.:)
 
Ok here's a preview of my upcoming XM-L T6 kit with PCB option: (more of a tutorial)

I will have a different set up for the 2 X 32600 Maglite. But this one is for the single cell build...





Installing a protection circuit... (for single Li-Ion)

All of the 32600's that I have seen so far, are unprotected cells. This is fine if you just check your voltage once in a while until you get the hang of how long your run time will be.

Obviously, if your flashlight begins to dim, do not use it until you check the battery. (or batteries)

I found a protection circuit that works very nice for my Maglite 'Stubby' single cell set up! :cool:

It can be installed into the head of the Maglite with a little effort.

Here's the data sheet: (this PCB will allow 5 to 6 Amps current, so it is perfect for this XM-L T6 Maglite mod! - Or P7)
http://www.batteryspace.com/prod-specs/1249.pdf

Notes:

* The PCB must be installed with a direct connect to the battery so that it is always connected to the battery even with the flashlight turned off. (this makes it kind of tricky to install - see pictures below)

* When using this set up, you must remember to isolate your driver from the the host. Otherwise it will be just like by-passing the PCB.
(this is easy, just do not let the driver negative make contact to the custom heatsink, where it is mounted - you can test with your DMM)

Mag%20XM-L%20T6%201.jpg

Mag%20XM-L%20T6%202.jpg

Mag%20XM-L%20T6%203.jpg

Mag%20XM-L%20T6%204.jpg


As you can see, it's a little bit of work to get it mounted... But once it's set up, you have built in Li-Ion protection! :)

The third picture caption mentions a large spring. (not shown yet) I'll have that in my new kit thread soon...

Edit:

I was just looking at the specs for the driver that I will be using. (testing)

It says that the input voltage is 3.2 Volts to 4.5...

So that probably means I didn't need to do this PCB modification. I would think that the driver will not operate with less than about 3 volts...

Here's the driver:
http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=1845

For that matter, if your using dual Li-Ion's for your laser build, using a FlexModP3 driver, the minimum input voltage for the driver is 5 volts...

I like to charge at 3 volts. But I don't think 2.5 is considered dangerous... (the PCB shown above cuts off at 2.4 volts, and it is made for Li-Ion's)
 
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