Driver Mod For up to 1.8amps with 2x 3.7v or 3.0v cells

[warriorx15]

Re: Driver Mod For up to 1.8amps with 2x 18650 cells

The Purple wire is the + out to the diode and where you see in this picture below the two black wires coming out of the left side of the R20 resistor that is the - out that goes to the diode.

The + & - input is on the other side of the driver as normal where they are. The center pad is + and the outer ring is -.

Heres the Picture:

Also No need to Apoligize. we all started where you are.

Hope this Helps.:beer: Post Pictures of your work when you are done. Like to see them.

Ok I kinda see, but why do you have 3 black wires? So the two on the right get attached to - pin of the diode, but what about the wire on the right side?

Also, I'm planning to get the four pack of circuits, but I was wondering if I have to solder extra wires like you did with the single 1.99 one. Last question :shhh: umm for the four pack, how much ma does it pump out without adding anything to it?

 

[lazeerer]

Re: Driver Mod For up to 1.8amps with 2x 18650 cells

If there is interest i will mod them at different output levels and sell them modded. For a small fee. They will come with a heatsink on the 8 pin chip as shown in the picture above witch will make it easier to mount to your heatsink or pill so its level with the Inductor. The resistor that i will use to mod them will be SMD so there will be nothing coming off the sides. I might Be able to add a pot witch is what iam hoping and will find out soon if this can be done. I have a driver coming that will be able to have a pot on it so i will also if enough interest order more of them.


Let me know if anyone is intreasted.? I can place an order for more and select for faster shipping

Here is what i mean when you mount it to a heatsink it will be level with the inductor so it does not get in the way.

 

[lazeerer]

Update Guys on this Driver for 10 Minutes Run On Test With a small heatsink above the 8 pin chip.: 01/02/2011

Hi All,
So i just did some testing on this driver at 10 minute duration X 10.

So here is one of the video of the driver being on for over 10 minutes with no issue of the thermal cut off for it over heating and look how stable it is. Sweet I was not expecting it to be this stable.:wave: I also want to mention that the wire was extremely flaky during this video that is why you see it jumping around during the video when i touched it. So i truely apologize for that s i dint want to re shot the video and re render it as it take 2 hours to render and wanted to get this up tonight for you all watching. After playing the video back i realized this and re wired it to do the other tests and it was fine after that. I also said in this beginning of the video that i will test it 10 times at 5 minutes well i decided to do it at 10 minutes instead. All 10 test were No issue of the driver over heatsing and going into thermal cut off at the end of each 10 minute test.


This was a long test as i did this 10x at 10min on each time to make sure that it can handle over kill. I dont think it is Practical that anyone will leave there laser on that long but if you had any dought heres some comfort.

Now My think is like this. I would say 5 to 6 minutes of on time is a good assumption to leave this driver on with just the little heatsink i have on the 8 pin chip set to ~1.8amps.

I also believe that if you are going to use this driver in a host like the C6 or the stainless steel R2 or the Guidsman host witch all take 18650 cells witch means can fit 2x 3.7v or 3.0v CR123A cells witch is what is required for this driver to work at 1.8 amps, i would assume and what i have tested with my Cree Stainless steel R2 host using this Driver at stock 1.2A that the heatsink for the diode witch is a coper heatsink starts to get pretty warm around the 3 minute on mark and by 3:1/2 minutes on it need to be shut off because it gets to hot for my liking. So if the driver with just that little piece of heatsink can handle I would say Max 10 minutes on time and 5 minutes Safe, the laser will have to be shut off not due to the driver getting to hot but the LD + heatsink getting to hot before it.

So in my conclusion in Smaller Builds running this driver at 1.8A in a smaller build the Laser diode + its heatsink will heat up alot faster then my 1.2A 1167mW laser right now. So the driver will be able to run just fine with that small heatsink on the 8 pin.

Now if you have room to mount the driver to an external heatsink as shown above it will only help. I have one right now in my 2+Watt build with it heatsinked to the top of the pill where the LED was and it stays Really Cool. "That is the picture in post number #18"

Now you can also get creative and as i explain 2 simple ways in the video how you can heatsink the driver 8 pin to the inside of the pill."I will do a tutorial on how to do this once i get more in."

I would say 5 minutes on with just that little heatsink on the 8 pin at 1.8A is safe to run it at. Add an additional heatsink to that and you can run it 10+ No problem.

Hope this Helps Guys

 

[Humphry]

This is great Lazeerer, thank you for all your time that went into this thread!
I am going to try this for my first 445nm build. Will let you know how it went.

I am just a bit nervous about the spikes. If it were to only withstand say 6 months of use it would be a bit of a let down.
Just a suggestion --> Maybe you would want to work on something dealing with that risk to give users peace of mind? I would love to but my electrical knowledge is seriously limited. Maybe it was too obvious for you to bother mentioning, who knows.

Also, what would the max amperage of 2x 3.0v be less than max of 2x 3.7v? I am planning to plot this into a guidesman I just odered. :wave:

ps: sorry if these questions seem completely obvious to you.

 

[b5s402]

4 1 ohms worked good in my c6 until my diode burned out a couple hours later

 

[Elektrotechniker]

@lazeerer, what about 16340 batteries? I am using 2x16340's with this driver but they would drain at like 5 minutes. i cant use 2x18650s in the c6 or guidesman host since they wont fit both :/

also, can we have warriorx15's question answered? Im kinda confused. The driver already comes with leads attached on it which go to the pins of the diode. Why do you have those 2 wires attached to the one side of the resistor?

 

[lazeerer]

This is great Lazeerer, thank you for all your time that went into this thread!
I am going to try this for my first 445nm build. Will let you know how it went.

I am just a bit nervous about the spikes. If it were to only withstand say 6 months of use it would be a bit of a let down.
Just a suggestion --> Maybe you would want to work on something dealing with that risk to give users peace of mind? I would love to but my electrical knowledge is seriously limited. Maybe it was too obvious for you to bother mentioning, who knows.

Also, what would the max amperage of 2x 3.0v be less than max of 2x 3.7v? I am planning to plot this into a guidesman I just odered. :wave:

ps: sorry if these questions seem completely obvious to you.

I have been using this driver for months now with no issue. Others also use this driver in there build with no Issue as well and it is used in 2 very popular build here on the form a i have read. So i dont have equipment to test the spikes but i dont think there is any issue with them as i have had no issue with this driver as well with others. What do you have in mind to give peace and mind to users. I have been using this driver successfully for months now including others as well. I think this information is that i posted is enough to prove this Driver is Great and runs with no issue.

Also, what would the max amperage of 2x 3.0v be less than max of 2x 3.7v? I am planning to plot this into a guidesman I just odered. :wave:

I am not able to test this Sorry. The most i can test for you is Run Time on 2x Cr123A 3.0v lifepo4 Cells. Witch iam going to start doing right now.

@lazeerer, what about 16340 batteries? I am using 2x16340's with this driver but they would drain at like 5 minutes. i cant use 2x18650s in the c6 or guidesman host since they wont fit both :/

also, can we have warriorx15's question answered? Im kinda confused. The driver already comes with leads attached on it which go to the pins of the diode. Why do you have those 2 wires attached to the one side of the resistor?

I use 2x Tenergey Lifepo4 3,0v RCR123A Cells and i ill test for you today to see how long the last at 1.8A. I know they last more then 5 minutes.


Sorry for not posting the Warriorx answer here i PM him with that answer. OK so the reason why i have all that wiring is because the 2 leads that come already soldered on the driver suck and they are not good for that much current. So i changed the wire out fro FP Wire witch can handle 1.8A Perfectly. Witch i recommend you get for this driver.

Now in the picture you see 2 black wires on the left of the resistor and one black wire on the right of the resistor. And a Purple wire on the top Left of the driver.

Lets Me explain the 3 black wires. The reason why there is 3 is on the left of the resistor 1 out of the 2 is used for the - to the diode and the Second wire coming out of the left side of the resistor is used to connect the resistor to the driver. Its just an extension. So the other black wire on the right side of the resistor is the same this just n extension to connect the resistors.

I could not connect 3 through hole resistor straight to the board so i had to run extinctions of the resistor on the board to have room to solder them to. I still am waiting for my SMD resistor witch then will be soldered straight to the board. with no extension wires running one both sides of the resistor. So that is why you see those wires coming out of the Driver on both sides of the resistor.

They are just extensions for the external through hole resistors. If you use SMD Resistors you will not need the extension.

I will test to see how long the laser last with 2x Cr123A Lifepo4 cells at 1.8A when i get back from walking the dog.

Also your Stuff Shipped today.
___________________________________________________________________________________________


I Also want to say to Any that is doing this that What ever current you guys set it to is your decision. I say 1.8A because that is what i feel comfortable at. So the decision is yours on where you want to set the Amps At.

 

[Elektrotechniker]

So basically you have 2 more leads attached to the resistor to add another resistor in parallel, am I right?

 

[Garoq]

Great work lazeerer, thanks for sharing! +1. :yh:

 

[lazeerer]

Silvershot>
So basically you have 2 more leads attached to the resistor to add another resistor in parallel, am I right?

YES. The 2 extra Leads were Just extension leads to connect the 4 resistor in Parallel of the R20 Resistor on the board. Because Trying to connect 4 Through hole Resistor to get .25ohms to a SMD resistor was not going to happen.

I just got my SMD Resistors in today So hopefully i can get some Pictures up of the setup if not tomorrow as i have to test the cells right now and see how long they last at 1.8A

 

[Elektrotechniker]

Cool thanks Btw, where did you order the SMD 0.25 Ohm resistors from? I don't know if the local stores have SMD components, that's why I ask. If they do, I won't order any online.

 

[lazeerer]

Cool thanks Btw, where did you order the SMD 0.25 Ohm resistors from? I don't know if the local stores have SMD components, that's why I ask. If they do, I won't order any online.

DigiKey.

Digi-Key

Iam going to try and find the right value to put in place of the resistor that is on the board so you just have to replace the one on the board rather then add to it.

OK Battery test with 2x 3.0v Lifepo4 tenergy cells.
Tenergy 2 RCR123A 3.0V 750mAh Rechargeable LiFePO4 Li-Ion Batteries with AC/DC Smart Charger

2 minutes in between each reading was done.

Remember this driver efficiency is ~30mA. In this test if you see the ~ next to the mA this means that it is 20mA or less from the stated number. Never More then the stated number.

So if you see ~1800mA the Range could be anywhere from 1780mA to 1800mA.

Driver was set with 4x 1ohm resistors witch is .25ohms.

Fully charged cells were 3.36v & 3.37v At 1830mA.

2 minutes Run time Cells were 3.35v & 3.35v At ~1830mA.

4 minutes Run time Cells were 3.33v & 3.34v At ~ 1830mA.

6 Minutes Run time Cells were 3.32v & 3.32v At ~1830mA.

8 minutes Run time Cells were 3.30v & 3.31v At ~1800mA.

11 minute Run time Cells were 3.29v & 3.28v At ~1750mA.

15 minute Run time Cells were 3.24v & 3.23v At ~1550mA.

16 minutes Run time Cells were 3.18v & 3.19v At ~1450mA.

After 16 minutes 15 Seconds the mA started to drop continues until i got to 17 minutes 25 seconds and pulled the plug at 1265mA and cells were Reading 3.0v and 2.99v.

I have no other 16340 cells available to me So i cannot do any further testing but with these cells is what i got.

Hope this Helps.

 

[Garoq]

Iam going to try and find the right value to put in place of the resistor that is on the board so you just have to replace the one on the board rather then add to it.

Based on the AX2002 data sheet it appears that the value should be 0.139Ω to achieve 1.8A output current.

 

[lazeerer]

Based on the AX2002 data sheet it appears that the value should be 0.139Ω to achieve 1.8A output current.

Yes. Sir. I was looking over the data sheet again and seen that after i posted it.

Digikey has none instock so iam looking around. I think i already new that it was a .139ohm resistor as i looked over the data sheet many times but it totally slipped my mind.

I think that is why i order a .15ohm resistor because thats what digikey had in stock. Iam looking right now at another site to see if they have them SMD.

Iam going to order a bunch of resistor to have different values for people to be able to choose the current until iam able to add a pot. witch i think i know how and have the parts but no drivers other then the 2 i have right now and i dont want to keep desoldering my lasers to do these test as i have been doing.

Digikey must hate me only ordering 10x per resistor and 20 diffrent SMD resistors.:eg:

Thanks For the Rep too glad you notice all the work.

 

[Humphry]

I have been using this driver for months now with no issue. Others also use this driver in there build with no Issue as well and it is used in 2 very popular build here on the form a i have read. So i dont have equipment to test the spikes but i dont think there is any issue with them as i have had no issue with this driver as well with others. What do you have in mind to give peace and mind to users. I have been using this driver successfully for months now including others as well. I think this information is that i posted is enough to prove this Driver is Great and runs with no issue.

It is not that I doubt your research but more that LED drivers are known shorten the life of your diode in the long term. I am more asking the same question as LazyBeam:

I'm talking about minor output spikes from the driver that one would use a filter cap, TVC, or Lasorb to mitigate.

Would anyone have any advice on how to protect your diode with this driver set at say 1,8A? I am clueless with electronics.

 

[Elektrotechniker]

Would anyone have any advice on how to protect your diode with this driver set at say 1,8A? I am clueless with electronics.

I am not sure but an additional capacitor on the output would only help. But why do you claim this driver would harm the diode? I can't see why, since the output current is really steady with this little heatsink on the 8 pin chip..