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FrozenGate by Avery

Driver Heatsink Adhesive

Toaster

Toaster

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So I have read around and heard you guys use the arctic Thermal paste, but that is conductive, so Why doesn't the electricity from the contacts on the board jump to the adhesive, pill and short circuit? Thanks
 





It's not conductive but it is a bit capacitive but that shouldn't bother us.
 
Sorry, I seen this stuff and it confused me, :)

Also, Dont you people use this adhesive instead of the compound? Thanks :)
 
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Toaster said:
Sorry, I seen this stuff and it confused me, :)

Also, Dont you people use this adhesive instead of the compound? Thanks :)
Click to expand...

That is what I use. I actually picked some up locally at Microcenter.

They only list the ceramic on the website but the have the silver version at the one here and the best part is they are local and it has tons of stuff that I buy for this hobby. Beats the crap out of Radio shack. There are stores all over the country.:beer:

Micro Center - Computers, Electronics, Computer Parts, Networking, Gaming, Software, and more!
 
i use that as well as a silicon based one. its kinda nice to be able to install a driver then fill it with thermal compound great heatsinking and wont ever come lose.
 
What are you guys going to do if you need to change the driver ? Those adhesive are going to bond forever.
 
What type do people usually use? is there any difference between
these two products? VVV

Arctic Silver ASTA-7G Premium Silver Thermal Adhesive

Arctic Silver Alumina AATA-5G Thermal Adhesive

or is it just different packaging or something?

Both these products are on newegg, I just don't want to get a lower quality version or something on accident, Ive never noticed theres two types on that page till now :p



EDIT:
What are you guys going to do if you need to change the driver ? Those adhesive are going to bond forever.
Click to expand...

http://www.newegg.com//Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100010

:p
 
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Blord said:
What are you guys going to do if you need to change the driver ? Those adhesive are going to bond forever.
Click to expand...

I find a razorblade works great or you could rip it out with a pair of pliers.:eg:
Now the driver will have adhesive on it but the only reason you would take it out is if it is toast and then who cares how gentile you are in removing it.:D
 
yup or you can pay some money to get some chemicals to dissolve the epoxy but most time i will stick it in the lathe and boar out the driver.
 
DealExtreme: $7.23 FUJIK Silicone Thermal Glue (50ml Grease-Like)

This is not too bad too ..... and cheap, and efficent enough.

And can be removed (with some efforts), opposite to arctic silver alumina, that is permanent .....

BTW, glues themselves does NOT grant you electrical insulation between two metal parts, if the parts are touching also just in a single point, regardless if the glue is not conductive ..... as example, fitting a module in a heatsink ..... for this, you can use a single layer of Kapton tape, on the module, and then thermal glue for fill the rest of the space between module and heatsink .....
 
I knew there was a reason I "had to have" the Kapton tape...
Thanks for letting me know what that reason was!
 
When bonding the driver to the heatsink, how do you keep the contacts from touching the heatsink and keeping a buffer in between the two?
 
You do not. Thermal compounds are often non-conductive on their own, but they do not guarantee and electrically isolated bond between two conductive surfaces at all. Between metal surfaces, it is quite likely that an electrical connection is formed despite the thermal compound.

If you require electrical isolation, use a material that is intended to perform that function - such as mica or silicone pads designed to mount semiconductors isolated from the heatsink they are on (and use plastic bolts/nuts too!)
 
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