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amkdeath said:The blu-ray DDL driver is the same as the red driver, EXCEPT:
USE A 33 OHM RESISTOR IN SERIES WITH THE POT! (instead of a 10ohm, or a 5ohm)
aaronX987 said:[quote author=amkdeath link=1202605790/195#200 date=1206398151]
The blu-ray DDL driver is the same as the red driver, EXCEPT:
USE A 33 OHM RESISTOR IN SERIES WITH THE POT! (instead of a 10ohm, or a 5ohm)
FireMyLaser said:I use a 15 ohm resistor and a 100 ohm pot in series. It gives me a range form 10ma to 83ma.
amkdeath said:[quote author=FireMyLaser link=1202605790/210#211 date=1206662497]I use a 15 ohm resistor and a 100 ohm pot in series. It gives me a range form 10ma to 83ma.
FireMyLaser said:[quote author=amkdeath link=1202605790/210#213 date=1206674576][quote author=FireMyLaser link=1202605790/210#211 date=1206662497]I use a 15 ohm resistor and a 100 ohm pot in series. It gives me a range form 10ma to 83ma.
aaronX987 said:Why put the pot in series? Then you cannot overdrive it. I say put it in parallel, 33 ohm resistor seems safe enough to be in parallel with a 100 ohm pot (resistance up all the way of course). Or are my calculations all wrong.
amkdeath said:I usually do a 3 ohm in series with a multi turn 100ohm pot. This gives me anywhere from 420mA, to like 12mA
so its basically a universal driver, 420mA for 280mW open can, 350mA for normally run open can, 250 for 16x red, 200 for windowless IR, 38mA for blu-ray, and basically any diode that needs 420mA or less.
IgorT said:Resistance in parallel is calculated like this: R = 1/(1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 + ... + 1/Rn).
To make it easier, you can use this page: http://www.1728.com/resistrs.htm
With the 317 driver, when you use a pot and resistor in series, the resistor sets the maximum current (if the pot should be at 0), and the pot adjusts it.
You can still get any current you want with it, as long as you choose the correct resistor.
If you were to put a 33 Ohm resistor in parallel with a 100 Ohm pot, at the maximum pot seting, the combined resistance would be 24.8 Ohms (50mA minimum current through the LD), and zero Ohms (>1A through the LD), at the pot's lowest setting. I don't think, this would be a healthy setup for a Blue Ray. It would be overdriven all the time, and most likely die very soon. It wouldn't be safe even for an open can, since there is no max current limit this way.
aaronX987 said:[quote author=IgorT link=1202605790/210#217 date=1206796119]
Resistance in parallel is calculated like this: R = 1/(1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 + ... + 1/Rn).
To make it easier, you can use this page: http://www.1728.com/resistrs.htm
With the 317 driver, when you use a pot and resistor in series, the resistor sets the maximum current (if the pot should be at 0), and the pot adjusts it.
You can still get any current you want with it, as long as you choose the correct resistor.
If you were to put a 33 Ohm resistor in parallel with a 100 Ohm pot, at the maximum pot seting, the combined resistance would be 24.8 Ohms (50mA minimum current through the LD), and zero Ohms (>1A through the LD), at the pot's lowest setting. I don't think, this would be a healthy setup for a Blue Ray. It would be overdriven all the time, and most likely die very soon. It wouldn't be safe even for an open can, since there is no max current limit this way.
aaronX987 said:Sorry :-[
I don't know where my mind is.
Its been a couple of months since I made my own.
I forgot that blue ray consume more than the red 16X.
Thanks