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FrozenGate by Avery

DIY Homemade laser diode driver

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Ya, BR diodes use around 4.8V.

And for the LM317, you should use a heatsink, one IC model I used recently had a built-in over-heat shutdown so I had to give it a big heatsink.

I'll try to get a big heatsink for diodes, for the lm i'll make one from some cpu cooler. Can you guys recommend anything? I'll also try to get a LaserBee for testing and a laser diode heatsink would come in handy.
 





I simply used sheet cooper (the same used for roofing material).

I actually posted some pictures in an earlier post (#1241)
 
Since the LM317 is in current regulation mode, it is NOT regulating voltage correct? So I couldn't feed a red diode 12v because it would receive something like (12 - 3 - .7) = 8.3 correct?
If it would recieve 8.3 volts, it would regulate the voltage. If it doesn't regulate the voltage but the current, the voltage will be anything as long as the current it corrent. A diode will have only a few volts over it when it reaches the right current, so the voltage won't rise anymore than that.

bob808:
6x1n4002 + ~300mv will be about 4 volts, just about what you measured so it seems to regulate the 8.1v source pretty good to 278mA. A circuit diagram with the nodes marked would be handy to check it, because I now have to do everything in my head ;).
 
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The lm317 is just a fixed voltage source. If you apply that fixed voltage (1.25) to a resistor, you get a fixed current.

You just learned the Thévenin-Norton conversions ;)
 
Not completely correct, you wire up it's sense pin to act as a current source. If you draw the circuit, you'll see you can't just use a voltage source but you'll need something more complex (like the 317).

A voltage source over a resistor will let a current run, but only across the resistor. But what we want is to have the current go through a diode without letting it's voltage drop be of influence, so it strictly speaking it can't be a fixed voltage source.
 
So if more volts than are required are available for a diode to use, will the diode use them (at risk of harming the diode) or will the diode just leave the extra volts sitting in the battery, only using the voltage required at the given current?
 
You don't understand xD

The lm317 is a fixed voltage source, but as we use it, the whole circuit is a constant current source. We don't feed with volts, we feed the diode with a fixed current!
 
Uhm, sorry .....

The LM317 is a VARIABLE voltage regulator, that you can also use as current regulator using a resistor that gives you the needed voltage drop (1,25V) for the current that you want (if you use the fixed voltage models, no way for have a current regulation) ..... so, for the ohm law, 10 ohm gives you 125mA, 12,5 ohm gives you 100mA, and so on .....

But you must keep in mind that, in this mode, you have a double voltage dropout (one from the regulator, and one from the resistor).

I never said this clearly before, cause i always considered it obvious, but i see that in a lot of posts, peoples talks always about regulators dropouts, and never considerate the resistor one, so i just wanted to point this :D

Anyway, keep in mind, calculating the power supply, that using the LM317, you have a total dropout of 3,75V (2,5 on the regulator, and 1,25 on the resistor) ..... when you need a dropout a bit low, you can use the LM1117 or AS1117 (NOT 117, but 1117), that have a lower internal dropout ..... using it, you have a total dropout of 2,4V (1,15V on the regulator and 1,25V on the resistor)

The only way for have a minor dropout with linear regulators is to use current sources with a current loopback, like the LT3080 ..... with it, you can use a 0,2 ohm sense resistor, and with a 20 Kohm trimmer regulate the current from 0 to 1,1A with a total dropout of 1,3V plus the dropout on the resistor, that depend from the current ..... as example, for 500mA the dropout on a 0,2 ohm resistor is 100mV, so the total dropout becomes 1,4V (don't be fooled from the datasheet that say dropout 400mV ..... this is true, but only if the control voltage is higher than the power voltage ..... using it with a single power source, you need to join the 2 inputs, so the dropout is the one of the control voltage, that is around 1,3V)

At the moment, afaik, the only better solution is using boost converters ..... but who know, manufacturers are always searching for better products :p
 
OK, I'm ready to get my components for building my first DDL driver, and I wanted to run my list and thought-process by everyone here so I can be sure I'm thinking clearly and not missing anything important.

This driver will be for DVD burner/reader LD's (red). And I'm not worried how big it is - this is more for a lab-style end product, not a small flashlight host.

From what I understand, I need the following components to build this thing (links are to DigiKey):

(1) 10 uF 16v capacitor
(1) 1N4001 rectifier diode
(2) 10ohm resistor
(1) 100ohm multiturn pot
(1) LM317 regulator

I've seen the substitute pot from Radio Shack, and while I think it's nice to be able to get everything I need at my local store, I noticed a huge price difference when shopping at both Radio Shack vs DigiKey. From Radio shack, the above listed components would be almost $10, whereas ordering from DigiKey would be a little over $3 (although I'm not sure about S&H). So, I could get almost 3 drivers (via DK) for the price of 1 (at RS) in component prices if I compare the two.

And of course I'll need a board to put it all on. I guess I have a choice to use either a basic board and use wire to connect everything together, or a board with the copper "rails" on the underside. Sorry for my terminology - I'm still figuring some of this stuff out....

I also need solder, which will be 60/40 rosin-core flux (right?). I can get that at Radio Shack or DigiKey.

I already have some tools, a soldering iron, etc....

Am I missing anything? Where would you get your components (local RS or order from DK)?? Would you prefer using the "plain" board and wiring it all, or the copper "rail" board?

Thanks for any input and comments you have. I appreciate everyone's advice here!
 
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Looks like you got it covered Dave, solders fine, I use the copper railed board.
Check out ebay for good deals on components (search worldwide)
heres some links in this thread... http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/buildind-my-first-ddl-driver-49260.html#post676137

Heres one I made earlier...this is using a 47uf 24v cap mounted underneath to save a little space & a 10ohm resistor to give me a max of 125mah (for a PHR 803T Bluray)
26032010.jpg

26032010001g.jpg
 
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Looks like you got it covered Dave, solders fine, I use the copper railed board.
Check out ebay for good deals on components (search worldwide)
heres some links in this thread... http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/buildind-my-first-ddl-driver-49260.html#post676137

Heres one I made earlier...this is using a 47uf 24v cap mounted underneath to save a little space & a 10ohm resistor to give me a max of 125mah (for a PHR 803T Bluray)
26032010.jpg

26032010001g.jpg
OMG!! Please do you have a guide or some sort of drawing for this, I have everything just got the wiring wrong on the one I tried before. Please, if you have it help.
 
A drawing? does that picture not show you 90% of how it goes together?

The only thing you cant see is the pins from the pot.

Look at the top picture, onthe board there are 5 rows in use. Starting at the bottom row, connect 1st leg of lm317, 1 leg of the 10ohm resistor, then 1 leg of the 1n4001 diode (has to be the right way round) then 1 leg of the capacitor.

2nd row, you have middle leg of lm317, now solder 2 legs of the pot together (back leg & front leg) and connect 1 leg of pot to row 2.

3rd row connect + power & 3rd leg of lm317.

4th row connect 2nd leg of pot and 2nd leg of 10ohm resistor

5th row, connect - power, 2nd leg of 1n4001 diode, 2nd leg of capacitor.

Laser diode, connect + to row 1 & - to row 5.

Those are your connections ONLY!

Before you connect a laser diode you have to set the pot to desired output & short both legs of the capacitor together .
 
Deadal
sorry if posting in an old topic is frowned apon here, but in your breadboard is that exactly the layout that u would transfer it to pcb if so you have saved me alot of time thankyou
cheers
anyone pls pm me with the answer
 
Question about diode?

Hi, sorry to post on an old topic, but I was just wondering,
I was doing some final testing on my completed driver, and I tried the driver on a common LED diode, and no matter how much I turned the pot (either way) the diode stayed on the whole time. Is that just because of the LED? Or have I made the driver wrong? Just want to make sure I don't fry my precious DVD diode :P
Thanks!
 
Re: Question about diode?

To make sure you are not going to fry the diode you need a multimeter and a test-load. just using an led and seeing if the pot makes a difference will not gaurantee that your driver is giving out the correct current for your diode. If the current is too high you will see a nice bright light for about 1millisec then the diode will die.
Dave
 
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