Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

Diode 'troubles'

danward

danward

0
Joined
Jan 21, 2011
Messages
12
Points
1
Hey guys,

I got a diode from DTR on Wednesday and installed it tonight. It powered on like a charm. However, it doesn't work anymore.. it was emitting for around about 3mins in total. I took it upstairs and it wouldn't power on. It's late at night and I'm starting to give up.

Driver: Micro FlexDrive
Diode: DTR XJ140 445nm
Host: The Blue M host and heatsink combo - just add diode and driver [Blu_M] - $19.99 : StoneTek Electronics, Your Laser Parts Store

The diode shows as 1 resistance.. That should mean it's blown, it had full heat sinking so I'm left to wonder.. Second one down the drain, I am not having luck with 445's.

The resistance between the case(-) and positive was around about 0.001. The resistance between the back of the case and the top was 0.18. The diodes resistance on the circuit board was 0.002 but the diodes resistance on its own was 1.0.

I think I've blown the diode, don't know how, but ohwell. If anyone has ANY suggestions please post back.

Thanks,
Dan
 





Have you got a test load ??? if so test the driver on the test load. Other than that, check all connections, you could have a dry solder joint somewhere ???
 
have you properly mounted the diode and battery in the heatsink and host? I mean, no wires touched the insides and shortcircuit?
 
I also bought a 1.0-1.5W diode in module with leads soldered from DTR on eBay and I was testing it with 9V battery in heatsink and it worked fine for about 30 sec of run time then got dim and hot. I dis-connected the leads and retried after cooldown... Almost instantly hot. Killed diode? Thank you in advance!
 
first of all why did you dig up a 2 year old+ thread?

second, WHY DID YOU HOOK UP A 9V BATTERY? you can instantly kill the diode.

Ever heard of a driver.....
 
Nitroman91 said:
I also bought a 1.0-1.5W diode in module with leads soldered from DTR on eBay and I was testing it with 9V battery in heatsink and it worked fine for about 30 sec of run time then got dim and hot. I dis-connected the leads and retried after cooldown... Almost instantly hot. Killed diode? Thank you in advance!
Click to expand...

The diode is likely dead. These diodes are very sensitive and will die easily.

You need a driver, it regulates the current going to the diode so that it can be run with batteries.
What you want if running with a 9V is a buck driver, or linear driver. You can make them yourself, search for linear driver.
 
Thanks. I guest I wasn't thinking I put about twice as much power to it as needed it takes about 4.6V max says DTR. I am planning on building the popular aurora flashlight kit and since the diode can output a max of 1.5W would a 1400mA LED driver from DX be suitable?(of course after replaced diode)
 
No, those 1400mA LED drivers are made for diodes with lower voltages. You should buy a driver made for laser diodes like those sold at Cajunlasers. Before you burn out another $50 worth of diode, you should do more reading on the forum about how to hook these things up. You should also invest in some goggles so you don't kill your priceless eyes.
 
I saw a video by pyrogadgets on YouTube about the heatsink build and he used the 5-Mode 1000mA 7135 Circuit Board for Cree and SSC Emitters - Free Shipping - DealExtreme I also read that it is 16.6mm wide enough to fit in driver pill I also noticed it is not specifically made for an LED it is just a circuit board if this wont work, an suggestions on some driver that will fit in driver pill and give me correct voltage? Thanks again in advance!
 
Nitroman91 said:
Thanks. I guest I wasn't thinking I put about twice as much power to it as needed it takes about 4.6V max says DTR.
Click to expand...

I like to think I am very specific in my threads/listings that a diode takes current from a constant current driver. They don't take voltage which is why I make sure to only list the max limited operating current not the forward(drawn) voltage of the diode. Can you let me know where you saw me say it would "take 4.6V" so I can change it if it does. Diodes given a fixed voltage will die from thermal runaway. This link I put in my ebay listings does a pretty good job of explaining why a driver is needed.

Laser driver - It can be done

Nitroman91 said:
I saw a video by pyrogadgets on YouTube about the heatsink build and he used the 5-Mode 1000mA 7135 Circuit Board for Cree and SSC Emitters - Free Shipping - DealExtreme I also read that it is 16.6mm wide enough to fit in driver pill I also noticed it is not specifically made for an LED it is just a circuit board if this wont work, an suggestions on some driver that will fit in driver pill and give me correct voltage? Thanks again in advance!
Click to expand...


I suggest the X-drives. They are pretty much the most stable drivers out there with soft start as well to protect the diode on starups. Not to mention they are about the most efficient drivers I have used in this hobby.
http://www.cajunlasers.com/store/in...id=bsoi138ov4cuh7f428or02hoj5&keyword=x-drive
I beleive Lazeerer is working on a round one but you could probably find a way to make this fit using the stock board for your contact points and have this in the pill or even better if it fits stuck to the back of the heatsink.

On the LED driver some will do the job but most have spikes that can lead to a short life for the diode. Not sure about that one but being that they are made for LED's which are tough as nails using one that costs $3 to drive a much more sensitive device like a diode that costs $50 may not make for the best investment.:beer:

If you have to have a round one you could go with a Moh linear just be sure to sink the IC as they do produce a lot of heat.
http://mohgasm.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=1
 
Last edited:
I guess I may have mis-interpreted what you explained on eBay listing. You said "should be" and not "MAX" I see my mistake, sorry. The moh-gasm 17mm driver is sold out:( so I will go with the "x-drive" option and do as "styropyro" shows in his YouTube how-to. Thank you for all of your support in my stupidity:) P.S( I will be ordering another 1W- 1.5W diode+ module from same DTR-ipf ebay listing about end of next week).
 
Thank you, I will go with the round blitsbuck v3.1. I will be Shure to post pictures of complete build thanks again!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.





Back
Top