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DinoDirect Firedragon III - 300 mW (Updated)

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Xtrm2Rick

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I tend to agree but last night, Unit 1 showed tail cap heating. I cleaned stuff and it improved. High current and aluminum are always a problem with any portable I have.
HMike

@Rick --
I have done the same to get the beam cleaned up. I don't like their front lens either. My new assembly should correct that.
good tip ill check if mine shows a heating problen around the tailcap.

keep us informed on your findings with the lenses and such:)

i really wanna get this laser to preform at its best i really like this host

also the little lens thats gleud on to the black piece of the module seem to be a bit off-centre but im afraid if i try to get it lose i might damage it
 

Hemlock_Mike

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Rick --- In mine (Unit 1), the lens holder disc is too small and is loose. It appears that the biggest problem is that its FL is too long and doesn't gather all the beam along with misallignment. I think we can make these much better. I hope DinoDirect is watching this because I can't explain science like this to them on email. I have helped others with problems but Dino appears to be a distributor of whatever they get. What a waste of my efforts...
HMike

This is the start of my Large lens mod for the Unit1 Dino. It will be a threaded focus assembly with a 10 mm lens. I'm using a 9/16 NF threaded assembly. My tests with hand held lenses indicate a good final result..... I hope....

 
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Xtrm2Rick

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sounds awesome !

yea explaining that to them is a no go, i think i would have more luck learning my cats to make me a RGB scaner or something:p

i totally forgot to rep you for this:banghead:, so ill just do that now :)

btw the lens that i said was off-centre is this one
also a crappy beam shot showing that the light exist at a slight angle, you have to look verry close though in real life its easy to see
http://i56.tinypic.com/2agu2pz.jpg
http://i52.tinypic.com/2rhtdzp.jpg
http://i54.tinypic.com/4q3qq.jpg

the light measured from just that lens about 1 or 2 centimeters away on my lpm goes from 450 to 530:eek: so it really has some potential!

btw do you think these things are ir filtered?

when i shine it trough my goggles theres only a faint green dot which measures 15/25mw, unfortunatly i dont have a decent ir filter so i can properly measure it
 
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lazeerer

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Hey HM,

I use this stuff Called Noalox >HERE< You can find it at Home Depot in the electrical section for few Bucks.

Its specifically for Aluminum to help seizing not happen . But it is also very conductive. It is the same stuff they put around the Arctic tail cap if you have seen an arctic.

It works Great. If you Like send me a PM and i will ship some over to you if you want to try it out if you want to have better conductivity between threads..:)
 

Hemlock_Mike

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Lazeerer --
I've been using Cramolin lube but I'll try that out. A local Dist. is listed as
a supplier.

Thanks -- HMike
 

LtKernelPanic

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Nice review. Looks like a decent laser for the price. It also seems to meet the FDA safety requirements too.
 

Hemlock_Mike

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The lens mount is now threaded and machined for the new focus lens when it arrives.
This should compensate for slight misallignment and beam size. The threads fit as smooth as birch bark!
I usually get shippment from Edmonds in a few days and I will mount it up then. The larger lens should provide better power readings than the 6mm lens provided if my handheld tests prove correct.

HMike
 

Hemlock_Mike

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The 10x10 mm lens arrived today. I got it mounted and have mixed reviews. With the larger lens, power has increased but beam quality suffers. I believe allignment with the crystal stack may be off a bit.
I have more work to do. Maybe a few pix tomorrow.
HMike
 

Hemlock_Mike

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The laser meets spec but I always try for improvements. It's fun for me and a chance for members and suppliers to improve product. "Pot modding" isn't always the answer or the best approach.

HMike
 

Hemlock_Mike

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This is my final addendum to this review of the Dino 300 as-is ------

As noted above, I have added a larger lens to capture more power and it appears to have worked but with problems.

This picture shows the machined parts to hold the 10x10 mm lens from Edmonds. It was first built on centerline for the beam but DPSS lasers aren't always centered so It was made adjustable.



Focus adjustment is 9/16 x 18 NF threads.

I assembeled the parts into the head and adjusted for the best beam exit characteristics. The machined parts are glued into place with UV cure adhesive.



Now for the optics part -----

Without a focusing lens, the output has a large rectangular beam with an unusual dancing effect. This indicates mode hopping but lenses won't show a TEM mode.



The problem arises when I try to gather this beam with a large lens, it has a flare at a 45 degree angle which I can't eliminate.



While this gives poor beam characteristics, it has added a few mW to the power. This isn't good for the projo types but still throws a fat beam.
Power output can be unstable because of the hopping but these two graphs show an increased power compared to the original ~6mm lens.






Above spec power but useful for "pointing".

This was an attempt to control a "wild" beam. The dancing output may indicate an overdriven laser but it sure is bright... I will make one more attempt using a 9mm assembly in this laser. Then-- major surgery!

HMike

1/24/11 -- I made a new holder today for a standard 9mm Aixiz style lens assembly. I got a much better beam but limited to only ~ 200 mW as the small apperature clipped the large raw beam.

1/26/11 -- I took this laser appart and found a somewhat unique driver with a thermistor temp feedback. This is used on a + rail ground host too!! I will be analyzing the driver as time permits. I see this post dropping into the dumper. If you want to comment, use my email.

1/30/11 --- The + rail driver in this laser does not seem to regulate anything. It acts mostly like a basic resistor. Voltage input appears to adjust both LD voltage and current without limit. I can't believe that the IR pump diode still lives with 3.5 applied volts. Thinking that it is a PWM driver, I connected my OScope and I see no switching pulses.
The feedback resistor is 0.10 Ohms. By changing it to 0.75 Ohms, I seem to be getting control of the circuit and it's regulating. A quick test of the thermistor appears to show it as a foldback protector which might be nice in a portable. I'm looking for a small 0.30 Ohm to try in this since my target current is ~1.1 Amps.

2/1/2011 --- After some testing, I find that the original sense resistor works good. The pot adjusts the current well at the 1.2 amp range and the thermistor when warmed too much kills the current. It's not immediately stable but I believe suitable for my RED build. I'm now making the Cmount assembly to mate with this driver allowing plenty of room for optics as may be needed.


2/4/2011 --- I have machined the Cmount assembly for the red diode. It will mount to the original Dino driver and screw into the rear housing. This provides good electrical contact which has plagued previous designs.
In the pictures below, the housing parts are in the center. The + rail driver and the green module are above. Below are the new parts to hold the 635 red Cmount LD and the tube which will provide mounting for optics as needed once I have photons!



The Dino housing and + rail driver is worth the money to me!
 
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