Dead flexdrive???

[chipdouglas]

i think i missed something... but i don't see where you used a dummy load to set your current?

michael.

 

[arringtj]

Do you have to make a jumper from the negative pin to the unused third pin for a BR 405nm?

 

[daguin]

Do you have to make a jumper from the negative pin to the unused third pin for a BR 405nm?

When using a MicroFlex driver AND you are using the host body as the negative path, you have to solder the case pin to the negative pin.

If you have both negative and positive leads coming to the rear (input) side of the MicroFlex (so you are not using the host body as an electrical path), then you do not need to solder them together


Peace,
dave

 

[AUTO XX]

No, I mean 1.1A is the max the flevdrive will go up to.
The range is set to 1.5A max so the max output should therefore be?
With the module grounded (pressfit) into the heatsink there is no pretty blue light. A broken/cut path on the board is the only thing I can think of.
The new heatsink is taking longer to perfect than I thought, its frikken cold outside and my shop isn't heated.

 

[chipdouglas]

hell it is stated that should be the max ^^^^ but there are variables that can affect this. so 1.1 could be all you might ever see with your set up. this is a hobby, not a science. true story. good news is that at that current you should see a 1:1 ratio.


michael.

 

[DTR]

No, I mean 1.1A is the max the flevdrive will go up to.
The range is set to 1.5A max so the max output should therefore be?
With the module grounded (pressfit) into the heatsink there is no pretty blue light. A broken/cut path on the board is the only thing I can think of.
The new heatsink is taking longer to perfect than I thought, its frikken cold outside and my shop isn't heated.

I have not gotten firm confirmation on this from drlava but some are saying with a dual driver in parallel setup you don't need to be the exact same mA on the Flexdrive so you could leave the one in there and put in another set to say 600mA for a total of 1.7A current:eg: unless someone can tell me for sure that this will not work. The new one should not need to be sinked either.

 

[Lasers and Masers]

The new one should not need to be sinked either.

Are you referring to the dual setup, or possibly a V6 flexdrive :eg:

 

[DTR]

Are you referring to the dual setup, or possibly a V6 flexdrive :eg:

I was just telling AUTO XX he can just make his set up a dual driver and he wont have to remove the V5 flexdrive that is already in the host. And he may not have to even reset the current on the one already in the unit

 

[AUTO XX]

I like that idea DTR, thanks for that.
I just finished another heatsink/pressfit module/pressfit driver heatsink/a pain in the ass with so many tight tolerances.
The 2nd (of 2) flexdrives is working fine with the same wiring as the first. There IS a problem with it but I can't seem to track down where it is. All I keep coming up with is a broken "wire" on the printed circuit board.
This is a great driver and I appreciate being able to utilize lava's experience in electronics by using his products but I value my time too. For $23 + shipping, I shouldn't have to figure out how to "fudge it" or buy another one to make it output what I want.
The 2nd driver idea might work very well in this case though, My heatsink is about 2 1/2" long X 1 1/4" diameter so I could find a use for a 2 watter
Thanks again for the info guys +1 (if it will let me, I spend rep points like a drunken fool to anyone I see helping others)
Gotta go help a friend move now

 

[Lasers and Masers]

I feel all gitty inside

The problem apparently was within the test load circuit, also in my host. My heat sink was apparently milled a little short and was not contacting the rest of the host when screwed all the way down.
I made a aluminum foil gasket in the head of my guidesman to fill the few MM gap and made it all fit tight.
Now it's fully functioning. Yeay for me!
Now I just have to find a way to make it pretty.
Looks like crap with foil hanging out around the front...
Guess thats what happens sometimes though when you pay $20 for a host
Just glad it's working

+rep for all

 

[DTR]

Guess thats what happens sometimes though when you pay $20 for a host

Just hit Moh up. I am sure he will take care of you.

The contact of the heatsink with the host body was my first thought.

 

[Bogart]

Yeah, this is one reason I always prefer to just run both positive and negative from the driver output to the diode.

That, and it just intuitively seems to make more sense to me than trying to use the host body.

I know that on some diodes you almost have to use the host body, but not so with the 445s and 405s.

 

[chipdouglas]

it's not the laser diode that does or doesn't require a certain way. it is the driver.

michael

 

[Bogart]

it's not the laser diode that does or doesn't require a certain way. it is the driver.

michael

As I understand it, both of these things can be true.

I understand that the Micro FlexDrive does all of it's work on the positive side of the circuit, and that the negative side simply needs to be connected to the driver, at either end (input or output), to power it. In fact, if you look at the board, you can see an uninterrupted trace from the negative input to the negative output.

This being the case, you simply need to connect the diode's negative side to the power supply negative "somehow", whether through the driver or not.

A Micro BoostDrive, on the other hand, operates on both the positive and negative side of the circuit, so that both the positive and negative connection to the diode must come from the driver's output. Also, the diode's negative side must not also be connected to negative on the power supply.

As for diodes, I understand that some diodes (red and IR I believe) are often "case negative", or "case positive". For a case negative diode driven by a FlexDrive, this means that you can get away with only connecting the positive lead from the driver's output, and get negative to the diode through the host's case (assuming a good electrical path exists).

I believe that if you are using a BoostDrive with case negative or case positive diode, that you must electrically isolate the diode from the host case. I would think that this would also be true for a case positive diode driven by a FlexDrive.

I'm still kind of new to this, and am stating some of my assumptions above. Maybe someone with greater expertise can weigh in and validate or disprove them.

 

[AUTO XX]

^^^All true bro.^^^
I figure trying to isolate the diode would be a PITA, flexdrive on the other hand was easy
Just an update: One of my flexdrives still doesn't work, I have contacted drlava but he still hasn't gotten back to me and it has been 11 days.
I must say, I'm a little disappointed.

 

[Blord]

11 days ? That is a bummer. He may overlook your mail. I just got a reply from him within few hours after I started the thread.