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Building a powerful red laser

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Gofilord

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Aug 15, 2011
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Hey.
I took a look at the styropro's red laser tutorial and here is what I understanded:
I alreay bought a 20X DVD burner diode in an aixiz module, and a driver that he used in the video.
acording to what I saw I should take apart the aixiz module, clip off the not used pin and solder the + and the - to the driver.
then I should solder the lead wires that come with the driver to the driver, and hook them up with 4 AAA batterys. finelly, I should pot mod the laser to be as powerful.

- will it be powerful enough to light matches?
- am I correct with what I said?
- wich host should I put it in? I thought about a flashlight or a mint box...
- if I hook it up to a flashlight, how do I get it connected to the flashlight so when I click the button it will start and stop?

Thanks, you have a great forum here :
 





depends what current you run/what current your diode can handle/the lens you use.

heres a wiring diagram i made, this one is using a flexdrive, what driver are you using?
660nmWiring.jpg


The host is entirely up to you,id select one with a decent size heatsink if you want a burning laser.

Look at the diagram to see how to utilize the host's switch to turn off the laser.
 
The power to burn a match depends on what color match you are using, red laser on red matches takes a while to ignite.
 
Do I have to use an heatsink? styropro didn't say so... and I want it to be portable.
A Jayrob flashlight has a small heatsink, why won't any other flashlight will?
 
I don't know how much heat these put out, but you may be fine without a heat sink if you use very short duty cycles.
 
Gofilord said:
Do I have to use an heatsink? styropro didn't say so... and I want it to be portable.
A Jayrob flashlight has a small heatsink, why won't any other flashlight will?
Click to expand...

jayrob makes those heat-sinks on his lathe. without a heat-sink you wont be able to leave it on long enough for burning. to burn u must be using laser safety goggles. do you own some?
 
I built a red using the same diode, driver and module recently.

You should mount the LOC into the Aixiz module with a little heat transfer grease and have a heatsink mounted over the diode portion of the module. I run mine at 240mw and can feel a little warmth on the heat sink after running 40 seconds. After 90 seconds I'll feel noticeable heat on the heat sink.

If you are using a rkcstr driver with 4xAAA (6 VDC) you should not need a heat sink over all of the Aixiz module. I used 2x14500 for power. With 7.5-8.4 VDC going into the rkcstr you will need some heat sink around the rest of the module to cover the driver. I found that this driver runs pretty cool between 6-7.5 VDC.

Do not adjust output of the rckstr driver with the diode soldered or connected in any way to the driver. It is very easy to LED a diode that way. Adjust the driver output (pot mod) to the desired voltage with a dummy load and DMM or a do a current measurement directly from the driver to a DMM (assuming it can handle the current level), then leave the pot alone. Solder the diode to the driver board after you complete driver adjustment.
 
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ARGLaser said:
I don't know how much heat these put out, but you may be fine without a heat sink if you use very short duty cycles.
Click to expand...

You'll kill any diode without a heat sink in seconds. DO NOT TRY IT! LPC-815s will burn up quickly! ... had it happen with improperly sinked diodes.
 
Gofilord said:
Ok thanks for the comments.
Here is the driver I am using:
Micro-Drive V3 adjustable driver (assembled) - $13.00 : rkcstr.com, Micro-Drive and laser diode electronics
and if I paint the top of the match with black?
also, where can I get a heatsink? (I'm not looking to buy one off a website cause I short with time)
every flashlight have heatsink?
Click to expand...

If you are using the LPC-815 + aixiz module + the rckstr driver you will have more than enough power to light matches and perform all common burning tricks + more. I built that same combo and believe me, it has plenty of punch. Running at 380 mA and focused at relatively close range (1-2 feet) it will light any sort of match almost instantly. No need to paint the tip black. At close range it will light red tip matches in a split second. Focused across the room (approx 10-15 feet away) it will light any dark colored match quickly and burn holes through black plastic CD cases, etc.

I used a old heatsink from a computer CPU. But that's because I set it up as a bench laser. I don't have any need to carry a red laser of that kind of power portable.

Of course, wear protective goggles when using this laser. It will damage eyesight faster than anyone could blink. It is a powerful little laser.
 
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Wow so many comments...
Ok I have a 5 dollar green protection goggles from a chinese website, are they good for this laser?
can I use a CPU heatsink even if it is portable?
all I have to do is drill a hole in the heatsink, and put the module in it, correct?
BTW, I will not be activating it for more then 10 sec's conssitenly (sorry about spelling)
Do I still need a heatsink? Oh and I also use 4*AAA's.
and do anyone own somthing that can tell me how much mW power is the laser output?
thanks
 
Gofilord said:
Wow so many comments...
Ok I have a 5 dollar green protection goggles from a chinese website, are they good for this laser?
can I use a CPU heatsink even if it is portable?
all I have to do is drill a hole in the heatsink, and put the module in it, correct?
BTW, I will not be activating it for more then 10 sec's conssitenly (sorry about spelling)
Do I still need a heatsink? Oh and I also use 4*AAA's.
and do anyone own somthing that can tell me how much mW power is the laser output?
thanks
Click to expand...

  • They are your eyes, a LPC-815 can destroy your vision when running a decent amount of current through it, get a decent pair, especially if your doing close up burning!
  • yes you can if you want but it will be bulky i imagine.

  • yes, 12mm i believe.

  • I would recommend a heatsink as everyone will, you don't have to, but it will burnout the diode quickly otherwise, so for long life of this build, yes use a heatsink.
  • 4x AAA's should be ok.

  • The light output will depend heavily on the current you set the driver at, so what is that value you are going to use?
 
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