Blackbuck 6. 6 amp led or laser diode driver

[paul1598419]

I've been using Arctic Alumina for many yeas and if you are going to keep it for long periods on time, it is suggested that you refrigerate it. I never do, however. It sets up in about an hour. It holds as strong as any thermal glue I have used that is far cheaper, but it dries harder than the silicone stuff and has better thermal conductivity too. It will end up costing you $16.00 for 5 grams total, but IMO it is worth it. Just keep it in a dark cool place when not in use and don't expect it to last longer than a few months without refrigeration. It is nonconductive.

The silicone stuff has the same thermal conductivity that silicone grease has. The arctic alumina is higher, but I can't find specs for it now. I used it on my driver from my 574nm laser and it is amazing how well it conducts heat to the sink. Just as if it were arctic silver grease with a screw holding it to the heat sink.

 

[RedCowboy]

I don't mind the 16 dollars, just don't want to put non food in my refrigerator if I can help it. I will give it a try.

 

[DTR]

DTR, do you know if the blackbuck 8 would be able to work with IR diodes with Vf around 1.5V?

If you are using two of them in series sure but just one no. the driver has a min of 2V load and really I suggest diodes that have a rating over 2.5V. If the load voltage is too low there can be a large spike as that minimum output voltage is where constant current kicks in. Had a lot of Oclaro 700mW 638nm deaths on buck drivers with a 2V min which I can go deeper in at another point but basically the resistance in he junction during a cold start in the few milliseconds before temperature normalization. I has a special version of the x-drive made with a 0.5V drop diode on the output and the random deaths went away. Amway that is why I do like to stay at least a half volt over a buck drivers min load volage.

Thank Billy and Jordan,

I was hoping the heat transfer was efficient enough through the board to use the underside, my only thought on how to do so was a thin piece of adhesive tape and a way to hold the driver down, but I don't like using tape like that as it isn't as good as a thin layer of arctic silver, or their diamond stuff, but if the diode gets too hot before the driver does for most pointers, that's moot.

Perhaps if the diode is mounted in a labby with a fan that would not hold true, but for our use in pointers good enough for me. I suppose some thermal glue could work, or a thin layer of some heat sink compounds, as they are not conductive, but if you solder through those pads with wires poking through, can't do that. Careful insertion of the wires and soldering them in place so they can't poke through to the bottom would work, with a spot of fingernail polish over the solder pads on the bottom, when done, would help.

Jordan, from what you said, my understanding is my having solder bridged that contact has disabled the driver, or put it in standby mode, correct?

Yes it is sufficent. There is a downside/point of note and one reason why he puts notes about your soldering skills in his listings as these boards are thin and transfer heat well and a novice that has too high a temp or sits on connection with the iron too long can cause a reflow of the solder shorting the chip. Wort case which I have seen several times bypassing regulation in some cases. This happens I would not say often but every once in a while. Most the time it just does not work but had one recently where the customer wired it to a NUBM44 and did not retest after soldering leads to the driver and poof.:cryyy: This was never an issue with drivers that have a thick double sided board like on the SXD or regular X-drive you can heat the crap out of them usually without causing issues maybe causing the TTL pad on the SXD to come off the board but even then there is an alternative connection if that happens. The BB8 and BB6 will move that heat from the iron quick though the board and more than 1-2 seconds can cause a reflow. Here one of the pics he sent. I am thinking he had the iron on there more more than a few seconds or maybe left and took care of some business while it was soldering.:toilet:

On the disable/enable contacts yes if you bridged them it would put the driver in standby as shown in the video I posted.:beer:

While testing I thermally bonded my aluminum heat sink to the bottom ( underside ) of the driver, is that not OK, so far it has worked for me.

Just to emphasize what I put in the last post as I have had some customers run into unexpected issues/limitations by not being very specific on this. I specifically suggest to bond the driver to the main laser heatsink(or in a portable the main host body can be an option) When I see a message start with a bonded a heatsink to my driver I know where it is heading. Bonding a little radiator style copper or aluminum sink or a high silver content coin(love that as was my staple for my old dual flex buids https://laserpointerforums.com/f51/...-continuous-driver-duty-cycle-1-5a-56404.html ) which while they will extend out the duty cycle for a small time with or without the assistance of active or passive air movement and specially in an enclosed space will act as a storage unit for the heat extending the time you need to have the unit turned off to cool down. If a portable build to the main laser heatink or directly to the body of the host is the best option and if going for a continuous duty cycle the only option. Not picking on you red just for those that read and think they can maybe just glue a coin or a small radiator to the driver and not realize the limitation of the different ways of sinking.:beer:

Is that artic alumina also electrically non-conductive ? If so I will try it, that Fujik takes hours to fully cure.

Here's a 2 part and a compound, would 1 be better than the other ? I see they both are electrically non-conductive and the compound can be taken apart later where the 2 part is permanent.

---EDIT---

It says the 2 part also needs to be refrigerated and allowed to warm to room temp before use, I like a potting/mounting thermal compound that will hold, the compound talks about 50-200 hours to thin out and whatnot.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Alu...019697&hash=item1ec172c398:g:1ygAAOSwiDFYPY0s

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Sil...538909&hash=item441bb7a038:g:tEUAAOSwElha0Pw4

I have never referigereated mine but maybe I go though it fast enough that it does not matter. I think that is just about keeping for long term storage. I go for the arctic alumina as it is cheaper and no benifit to the silver. It is non conductive but to continue my ramblings tonight(sorry just finished a very long work session so am a bit sleep deprived) a common misconception about thermal paste/thermal adhesive. It is only(for the paste as the adhesive adds a bonding component) meant to fill microscopic gaps between two flat surfaces in direct contact. You don't want to use it as a buffer as that can work against the whole idea as it will reduce thermal transfer. I usually cringe a little when I see someone fill the back of an aluminum module with thermal paste. On these after I solder the wires which I do put them though the hole(but you can just do a flat solder on top of the board if you are worried about that. I use sheer cutters to make it flat if necessary. With that I could get away without the double sided thermal tape but it works good without sacrificing enough transfer to be a determent to the ability to run continuously if the sink can handle that scenario. Here is the stuff I got last time. It is very thin. You do still need the adhesive as the board may stick for a while but with just the tape it will at some point lossen and loose thermal transfer or fall off. This also makes it pretty easy to remove the driver as if just using thermal adhesive it can be tricky to get it off without bending the board breaking traces, ripping off components.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYO3PK9/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Last note before I chekout I have not had a chance to update my ebay listing but the BB8 is now all REV3.1 and the details have been updated. I have updated my page to match Vlads ebay listing. These have some nice revisions. Check out the details.
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/laser-drivers/8a-blackbuck

 

[badboybilly]

I use arctic alumina, It does set quick and it’s not cheap for the 5g you get. If need be you can always remove the driver with a razor blade, I keep them in a jar in the fridge!

I bought this Ceramique 2 a while back but don’t use it becouse it takes long to cure and it’s like the toothpaste stuff!

Edit!
Hey Jordan didn’t here from you, did you get a chance to ship them drivers for me!

 

[RedCowboy]

I like the quick setting aspect and just ordered the arctic aluminia, for the blackbuck all a person needs to do for bonding the backside to their heat sink is drill some shallow holes, just little divots really, where the connections come through so they can't short to you heat sink, the chip on the SXD gives enough clearance of course.

 

[badboybilly]

Yep that’s another way or mill out a slot like I did in the pic below, yep I could have used a smaller flute,

Also a small layer of alumina on the alloy before heatsinking the driver like the other photo is also great!

 

[Alaskan]

Aha, little holes to prevent the wires from shorting, easy. I will order some of the Arctic Alumina, I'm disappointed I could not get this build done today, but back burner it goes.

 

[skijohn]

I hope this thread isn't too old to post in but I just wanted to add my vote for Arctic Alumina as it sets fast and works great!

It's all I use!

 

[RedCowboy]

Yes I have been using Arctic Alumina on my builds and it works well, I use it with I the DTR 20mm modules with driver shelf/pocket which I hope he gets back in stock.