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FrozenGate by Avery

BEWARE of ARCTIC BATTERY EXPLOSION

I'd like to throw this tidbit o' info out in this thread --

if you get the orange "MNKE IMR" cell with your laser, you should be safe.

my testing tells me that it is indeed their IMR 1.3Ah cell. (IMR is high discharge,safe chemistry, but low capacity)
 





csshih said:
I'd like to throw this tidbit o' info out in this thread --

if you get the orange "MNKE IMR" cell with your laser, you should be safe.

my testing tells me that it is indeed their IMR 1.3Ah cell. (IMR is high discharge,safe chemistry, but low capacity)
Click to expand...
I'm sure WL has read this and that is why they switched to IMR cells, not that they would answer my emails though.

My only concern would be the "MNKE IMR" supplied by WL might be counterfeit, not saying it is, but there a reports of fake MNKE IMR's on CPF; otherwise it would be a good cell to use.

For my Arctics, I'm using AW 1600mAh IMR's that I bought directly, so I know they are the real deal. The Arctic battery indicator led's work just fine properly showing the remaining charge capacity as far as I can tell.

Stay Safe.
 
electron said:
I'm sure WL has read this and that is why they switched to IMR cells, not that they would answer my emails though.

My only concern would be the "MNKE IMR" supplied by WL might be counterfeit, not saying it is, but there a reports of fake MNKE IMR's on CPF; otherwise it would be a good cell to use.

For my Arctics, I'm using AW 1600mAh IMR's that I bought directly, so I know they are the real deal. The Arctic battery indicator led's work just fine properly showing the remaining charge capacity as far as I can tell.

Stay Safe.
Click to expand...

Stay Safe indeed!

It probably isn't a fake since the label is identical to the real deal, and,
WL used the cheapest MNKE cells possible. :p

the very high current tests tell me that it's a IMR, regardless, YMMV!
 
Just getting into using 18650s and very nearly bought the 1-bay version of that charger... interesting read, and yes, glad nobody got hurt.

Few things I couldn't help but comment on.

1. While these batteries _could_ blow at any time, while charging is by far the most likely. Or, if you just heat them over, what 140-160C? Even cars don't hit 300F inside though. Cheap cells are much more likely to have defects that cause explosions even in properly treated cells. I can't see how the cost/benefit would ever work out in their favor.

2. AFAIK, discharging below 2.5 will not make an explosion more likely at that time. It's charging an over-discharged cell that's very risky. Protection circuits don't always work, either, so relying on them to cut off because of discharge voltage is probably not a great idea. If you think the circuit tripped, probably best to check with a voltmeter before charging. (though a second of charge may be needed to reset the protection circuit)

3. Laptop battery packs can easily last over 3 years. I have old MacBooks with 4+ yr packs that still have 80%+ capacity. I don't expect over 3, but I'd question de rigeur discarding 3 year old cells of good quality that still have good capacity. Is there a reference about LiIon getting more dangerous as it ages? I've never heard that. Just that many damage mechanisms (like overdischarge) cause cumulative damage and, of course, newer cells may have better and safer designs.

4. Best to store LiIon at about half capacity. That's about 4.2 (100%)-0.25 (20% per 0.1V)=3.95V. Should be good for a year like that. Check voltage after storage.
 
I just got my Arctic on Saturday afternoon, 10/3/2010. The battery seems to be the orange case, with the following on it.

MNKE IMR-18650

RU MH46698 RoHS CE

No other marking except + and - on it.

It seems like they switched over.
 
Since they switched to the newer, safer batteries, is it ok to keep them, or should I just throw them away when I get the laser and buy a new pair? I want to be as safe as possible, but I want the battery cover to screw on properly.

EDIT: I'm not to bothered about price.
 
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Darkoli said:
Since they switched to the newer, safer batteries, is it ok to keep them, or should I just throw them away when I get the laser and buy a new pair? I want to be as safe as possible, but I want the battery cover to screw on properly.

EDIT: I'm not to bothered about price.
Click to expand...

I still would get a Tenergy 2600 until we know more about the new battery. It's protected and fits in the Arctic. See my sig, it has links to the battery sellers.
 
hugo999999 said:
after reading this thread i now keep my stash of 18650s in a large metal box :)
Click to expand...
Make sure it's impossible for them to rattle around and orient themselves in such a way as to short a string of batteries on the metal box. Although this can be remedied with something as cheap as some posterboard taped to the side or something.

aryntha said:
Big fan of the LED Museum site here too. LEDs were my gateway drug to lasers.
Click to expand...
Too true. the light density per mm^2 just wasn't enough for me with LEDs; I needed something stronger. At first, I just smoked the laser diodes. Now I've gotten to the point where I'm using lasers with direct injection.

(a few laser jokes ;-) )
 
I build a life-dangerous device to charge my Arctic-batteries. Due I only got a chinese contact, I taped some steel-wires into my european socket! It stood it was for 250 V, but we have 240 V, so it went fine! :eek:

But thanks for the warning!
 
BShanahan14rulz said:
Make sure it's impossible for them to rattle around and orient themselves in such a way as to short a string of batteries on the metal box. Although this can be remedied with something as cheap as some posterboard taped to the side or something.
Click to expand...

don't worry mate, i've got them in small plastic boxes inside the metal one :)
 
electron said:
Have you measured the Tenergy? I'm just curious, I know you have one and it fits for you, but we don't know how good the tolerence is on the Arctics from one unit to anther. The CPF test thread shows it to be 66.7mm in length and their source for them was batteryjunction. The Sanyo's & LG's are UL listed, but are un-protected.

I have been using the LG's for a long time with my RPL's with no issues what-so-ever. I would have thought with the battery indicator lights on the Arctic, a Quality un-protected cell would have been fine because you would know how far down the battery has been run. Again though, it's an Arctic and we don't know how "reliable" those battery capacity led's really are.

As you already reported, with most protected 18650 cells you can't fully screw the switch cap all the way down on the Arctic. It has really been designed for a 65mm battery. That is one of the reasons I bought the AW IMR, it's a better chemistry that doesn't need any pcb protection circuit to be added to the cell for safety and thus is only 65mm.

I personally haven't tried the Tenergy's yet (canceled) and want to see how well the cap screws down on the Arctic because it's still 2mm's longer than the supplied battery and all other un-protected cells with the exception of AW IMR's. I'll report on this when I get some Tenergy's. Canceled in favor of AW IMR's.

WL sure didn't waste any metal building the Arctic, I mean a couple more mm's couldn't have cost anything; it's so darn tight in there, don't want to damage the spring or circuit it's attached to.

If I was a Machinist, I would simply make a new switch cap for it and w/o the silly safety pin, and then battery length wouldn't be an issue, cause it can be solved that way.

The length varies of protected 18650 have never been a problem for me in all the flashlights I own, or other Lasers.

For now, I have the AW IMR (65mm, no protection required) and the LG (65mm un-protected) All the other batteries I have such as AW 2600, Shoshine 2800, TF2400 Red/Black are all rated very well on the CPF tests and I have been using them in Lasers and a dozen or so LED Flashlights I have, with no issues ever encountered over the years.

With the LED flashlights most any of the brands I have work just fine in them, and the DIY Laser builds; those are were I usually test my batteries. I carry a high output light every day and switch back and forth trying different 18650 cells and seeing how well it holds up for EDC use.


Then come along this unknown brand 18650 supplied by WL and BANG!

Stay Safe
Click to expand...


I am willing to bet that the brand wicked lasers sells with the Arctic is superfire brand batteries. Reason, I too had an explosion charging a li-ion cell from that company. It was a
RCR-123A battery and it did a rocketship when it vented! Also superfire is pretty much the cheapest li-ion cell one can find.
 
Ok now Ive known about WL bad cells for a while now. I got one to.. Dont use it. Got a protected one from the guy I got the laser from. Even a better charger. My question is. Is ALL of WL cells unprotected? Mine came with the G3. So im wondering if they ever got around to making them better. If not I havent a problem chunkin it, but be a shame if its ok. Included is a pic of the cell.
Cant read the writing on it from the pic but it says:

SANYO - UR18650A
A OD4A59 110044

IF anyone know suggestions and comments welcome

Thanks,

Ricky C
 

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The only battery problem was with the original no-name battery. The Sanyos that are being shipped with the Arctic now are fine. WL only shipped unprotected batteries. Most protected batteries won't fit.
 
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