Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

Battery giving out mV??

"Jake is Gay"

Whats that about?

LOL! Busted!!!:crackup::D:crackup::D

2qn87xd.jpg
 





Haha my friends are assholes. Everybody writes/ carves on my table.
 
^^^ trolling has been around before the interenet lol

but seriously jake your black lead has to be in the common spot to check voltage. there are no exceptions for this. unless you took your dmm apart and rename stuff.

michael.
 
Well it still works, with red in that side, and black on the right. You just use black for positive and red for negative, but it still reads all batteries fine.
 
It might be faulty protection circuit, if you are left with no other opinions left, try tearing it off.

Also, if you switched red and black during voltage measuring, it would read it fine, but as a negative voltage.
 
Yes you are correct johnnyz. But I put them back to where they belong. Black into DC10A, and red into COM
 
I don't know why you seem so against using your meter correctly. Just put the black wire in COM and the red wire in V/ohms/ma/diode/bat socket (the one to the right) like they are supposed to be and see if it is a good battery or not. It's the only way to find out if it's a problem with the battery or the meter.
 
If you have a charger, put it on the charger for a second or two. Now take it off the charger, wait a few minutes, and test the voltage. Still at <1V, toss it.

And yes, the 10A socket is connected directly to the com socket via a Manganin bus bar about 2-3mm in diameter. Equivalent of shorting out your batteries with a chunk of copper.
 
I don't know why you seem so against using your meter correctly. Just put the black wire in COM and the red wire in V/ohms/ma/diode/bat socket (the one to the right) like they are supposed to be and see if it is a good battery or not. It's the only way to find out if it's a problem with the battery or the meter.

Dude, I am not against using my meter correctly

I simply stated that IT STILL WORKS properly that way

Everything is fine everybody.. Nobody needs to worry about how I use the meter. And everything is okay. Black is in DC10A, and red is in COM.....
 
DC10A is directly connected to COM via a big bar of metal. You are essentially shorting out the lithium cells, which hopefully tripped the protection circuit. I don't know why your other cell is still working... But yeah, you never need to use the DC10A plug unless you are measuring current at the tailcap for a laser or something.

I hate it when I short out an 18650 on accident, because then I have to move it to my group of abused 18650s. :undecided:

Did you ever try what I mentioned earlier? If you have a wf139, I don't think it can reset protection circuits and you will have to apply 5V of a limited current to "untrip the breaker," so to speak. Test the voltage of the cell afterwards with black in COM and red in V/mV/mA/Ohms plug.
 
Last edited:
Just got off a ~2 hour bike ride, proceeding to try your suggestion!
 
Dude, I am not against using my meter correctly

I simply stated that IT STILL WORKS properly that way

Everything is fine everybody.. Nobody needs to worry about how I use the meter. And everything is okay. Black is in DC10A, and red is in COM.....

Facepalm.jpg
 
Well, when I had red in DC10A and black in COM you said I was doing it wrong, so which way do you guys want me to do it?
 
20614a2f.jpg


There are three holes... I thought you guys said it was wrong for red to be in DC10A and black to be in COM?

And then chipdouglas said black ALWAYS belongs in com?
 
Yes, black is always in COM. It's color coded. So the only time you use the 10A connection is if your measuring amps higher then 200mA for that specific DMM with the red lead.

EDIT: Sorry for all the hassle this lead to. I just wanted to point it out since you might risk shorting something out in the future.
 
Last edited:





Back
Top