Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

Anyone ever work with the NECSEL 10 watt 520nm before??

photonaholic said:
They are theater projector components. New cinema projectors are using diode pumped DLP technology (My 65" TV is a Mitsubishi DLP) and the image is stunning. These modules make up the light engine in big screen projectors. They are very real.
Click to expand...

I received them a couple days ago. NECSEL is very adamant about NOT providing support for "obsolete modules". I would love to at least know the pin-out of them so I don't blow them up by hooking them up incorrectly.
 





Shmackitup said:
I received them a couple days ago. NECSEL is very adamant about NOT providing support for "obsolete modules". I would love to at least know the pin-out of them so I don't blow them up by hooking them up incorrectly.
Click to expand...

My recommendation would be use a digital ohm meter to sort out polarity, (Of course I assume you knew that) and fire it up with minimal current and slowly jack it up. (again simple common sense)

Can't wait to see how things work out....
 
You can't use an ohmmeter to find out the polarity of a laser diode like you might with a rectifier. I would connect it to a CC/CV adjustable power supply and use minimal current to see if you can get light out of one using your best guess, if you can't get a pin out diagram. I have done this on several occasions when there was no pin out available and I had to figure it out. With the current set for 50 mA, increase the forward voltage slowly. If you get to 4 volts and see no light then I would expect it might not be setup the way you have it and try a different configuration. Good luck.
 
My concern is that there are many emitters in series and parallel inside the unit. Their 5 watt module requires 38 volts at 1.6 amps. Also, there are multiple connections on the connector coming off the module. There are also 12 different sized pads on the ribbon connector. I'd assume the larger ones are for the power but not sure what the other ones would do. I'll post a pic later.
 
If it requires 38 volts at 1600 mA, they would all have to be in series. That does complicate matters, but it is still doable.
 
Yes. Once you identify the two leads that are the cathodes and anodes, you are most of the way there.
 
Get a small hepa filter and blow the air from it over the module while you open it. This will keep dust away. Make sure to clean the area first so you are not just blowing the dust around from the wind. Put it in a clean fish tank and blow the air into it. After a few minutes the air should be pretty clean. For that mTter add a top to it and make a glove box.
 
Here is the connector. It's clear which ones are for power but what are the rest for?

 
I would use my meter and check the large center pads, the small tabs at the outside might be for feedback ?

Also if you decide to take it apart I would not remove the center screw, just the 2 outer screws to start and carefully see if it will separate, just how the fiber coupling is set up I don't know.

You could ask for a discount on the used unit he has listed and risk wrecking it to preserve your new units.

Looking at your pic that bottom appears to be scratched/dirty and those outer screws may have already been out, do they all look like that ? I would expect NEW units to be really clean and scratch free. Heck the screw on the right looks like it's not tight, looks like it's not screwed in as far as the left, I would check to see if those outer screws are even tight, then I would take that sucker apart....but that's just me. It's just a couple hundred bucks and you have spares. :) Besides it may have been apart by the looks, but it's your call.
 
Last edited:
Modulation , etc, power. Bet large center is ground. Right is modulation two center around ground positive and the other tec. Pure guess
 
I just purchased one of the units with the fiber coupler attached .

Looking at the info for the driver they provide on necsels site , there is a what I assume to be a heater for the PPLN crystal and two thermistors . One for the diode / assembly and one for the PPLN .

This would make sense as there are 6 Pins on the small connector
 
Hi Shmackitup and DashApple,

Are you going to buy a driver from Necsel at the end? One of Developer's kits? They have several on their site - did you ask for quotation?
 
I have 4 flexmod P3s I can run in parallel so I can do about 18A drive current for the diode , Not sure yet on what to use to control the PPLN heater

on the youtube video it looks like 33C is the best temperature to run the diodes at .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top