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FrozenGate by Avery

Another Build Failure

As recommended by some of our fine members participating in this thread, be sure to 1) have an iron that's powerful enough 2) ALWAYS keep the tip clean an covered with a thin layer of solder 3) clean your tip often using a slightly wet sponge or a fine brass wire brush (or a combination of both) 4) use flux, it's inexpensive and does a great job at preparing the surface for soldering. 5) act quickly, as soon as the solder has started creeping on the surfaces, break the contact.

Check this quick primer on soldering techniques:
http://technology.niagarac.on.ca/courses/elnc1236/pdf/Soldering Techniques 10W.pdf
It is quite useful and gives good advice on various scenarios.

Robert
 





Eudaimonium said:
Rangedunits,

Last couple of posts I saw you posting were not in any way productive, helpful or asset to the forum or thread they were posted on

Nor were any one of those posts longer than like, 7 words.

You seem to post only to irritate people, intentionally avoiding to post something that makes sense or helps. Or just does not irritate people.

What is your problem?
Click to expand...

He our pet troll. Kind of the troll's troll.
 
I just saw the 1st Post photo...:eek:
(BTW... your Macro Photo skills are quite good and much better
than mine...:cryyy:)

I don't find it funny... I find it sad that 2007Rev had to make
3 builds that didn't work for the lack of basic soldering skills..
(that by the way are not difficult to master)
And I'm sure there are lots of members here that have and
will ruin at least one build for the same reason..

The main problem is the solder joint is "Dry".
To make solder flow properly and conduct heat to the 2 parts
being soldered you need some....

ROSIN FLUX or ROSIN FLUX CORE SOLDER

Both parts being soldered together MUST come up to the solder's
melting temperature before the solder joint can be made.
In addition... with added heat the parts oxidize (preventing the
solder from adhering to the parts) and FLUX must be used to
eliminate/reduce the oxidation buildup....:cool:


@rangedunits.....
that makes absolutely no sense at all....
I can see that you too would benefit in learning basic soldering
skills...:whistle:


Jerry
 
Last edited:
Yeah, avoid using the lead free "crap", at least until you are confident soldering. I have found the lead free stuff is harder to work with. Just don't breathe the fumes, and you'll be fine with lead solder.

Go for something like 60/40 tin/lead rosin core solder, it's always worked for me, and since the flux is already in the solder, you don't have to worry about applying it separately
 
And don't use a filed down 80W woodburning iron as a soldering iron because you are too broke for a regular soldering iron (like me) :D

Circuit boards tend to return to they're base elements with an iron that hot lol
 
drlava said:
picture in first post is not showing up for me.
Click to expand...
You don't want to see it, trust me.
Let's just say that it's your creation that was out of luck there :D

Just kidding. Nothing really to see. Imagine a FlexDrive and Aixiz with LOC connected with 100 grams of overburned solder-alike apstract substance (which is 100grams of overburned solder, as the name sggests)
Pontiacg5 said:
And don't use a filed down 80W woodburning iron as a soldering iron because you are too broke for a regular soldering iron (like me) :D

Circuit boards tend to return to they're base elements with an iron that hot lol
Click to expand...
The maximum power of soldering iron is 30W for diode and SMD component work and rework.
Anything above will damage laser diodes, and even more above will damage components. Go any higher and it'll damage a heatsink :D
 
Thanks for the support guys. I have decided to attempt this build again. Seems I made so many basic mistakes it was almost doomed from the start. I will invest in a proper soldering iron this time, not my DX butane one. lol I will get some lead solder and also be sure to use flux this time. Gonna work on my technique in the meantime and practice some more with some scrap parts. Also thinking about getting one of those helping hands tools and not just balancing stuff lol.


EDIT: Accidentally deleted the picture off my server, it's up again now though.
 
hey simon, also try pre-tinning every connection too. it works for me. and i always have my LD pins facing down so the solder wont drip to the frame.

michael
 
Simon, when you buy your helping hands, they have a model that has oversized alligator clips, an insert lens in the main lens ('bout the size of a nickel), that gives you HIGHER magnification, & also an LED light that shines on your work, & it's only about $3.00 or $4.00 more than the regular model, & WELL WORTH the cost. Plus it has all the items that the regular model has. Just my $00.02. rob
 
Glad to hear you're getting back on the horse.

I'd recommend that you practice tinning pieces of wire before you get to the real thing, to give you a feel for how your solder melts and flows. As mentioned above, pre-tin every connection. That way, you just have to place the wire on the diode pin, tap it with the iron, and hold it for a second.

Also, invest in some de-soldering braid. It's basically fine braided copper wire that's loaded with flux. You place it on solder you want to remove and heat it with the iron. The solder melts and flows into the braid, leaving you with a clean component. Very handy stuff.
 
That soldering braid is GREAT stuff, especially if you have to remove excess solder from a tight space. Yeah, good stuff that braid is. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED & CHEAP rob
 
The "Kindergarten Cop" makes an appearance on the Forum !! WOOT WOOT WOOT !!!
rob
 
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