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FrozenGate by Avery

700mW 532nm handheld anyone??






I'm curious to know what kind of current other RPL owners (300+ mW) are experiencing. When I first got the laser and measuring the current draw even pseudonomen agreed that the current draw seemed very low, but it was still making the power so I wasn't too worried about it. Maybe they put in different drivers until they get the power they were expecting to see?
 
GooeyGus said:
I'm curious to know what kind of current other RPL owners (300+ mW) are experiencing.
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How would I go about checking that in an RPL?

Peace,
dave
 
Gooey,

Having taken my RPL apart a couple of times now. I have also noticed the low current flow and weak pump diode output around 1w-1.05w. For a while now I have been thinking that there is something wrong with my diode but based on your measurements, it seems I just can't seem to get the allignment completely on spot again :-/. Max I can get now is around 27-28ish peak and around 23 "stable". down from a much higher peak and average (in my sig).

what batts did you use the 3v kind or the 3.6v kind? I don't really care about warranty as its long gone anyway ;D

Maybe 50+mw of 473? :P Uuuu I hope so. Congrats on the 700mw :D insane, watch out for mirrors though... :o


EDIT: Went ahead an used the 3.6v kind so 8v. Managed 46mw peak even with the current crap allignment...I think you stumbled onto something :D Will post pics when I break the 50mw barrier :) Mmmmm 50mw CW blue...OH YEAH

As far as the diodes though, I recently bought a 1.6w spectra physics a-mount (for a random project) and the guy told me he tested a few and found COD to be around 5w :O...come to think of it we push 5.6mm diodes way past their rated limit and look at how resilient to damage the open can variety are...I don't think these diodes will die just like that...and if they do...well just buy another one :)


Thanks
brtaman
 
GooeyGus said:
It's all green baby. I'll take another pic of the power reading with some laser safety glasses in front of it in a bit.
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Lol at first I thought that you used more than 1 pointer... But guess not.
Damn, that's awesome. I don't know if I should try this on my 5mW Oceanus though...

Hey brtaman,
Have you received your Flexdrive yet?
Just curious ;)
 
Hey jimbo ;)

No I haven't received it yet but its normal...the shipping times from the US have increased drastically in the past couple of weeks (recession?!), as many members who have sent me stuff just to receive worried pm's will attest to ;D so it will take a while before I see it :) Will let you know when I receive it though.


Thanks,
brtaman
 
OMFG!

Brtman, didn't know I sold such a great laser to ya. ;D

Before I go and do this to my RPL, I'll wait and see how long your guys's lasts, makes me wonder, why wouldn't they give us the 2 cr123a’s instead of the 18650 if the lasers can handle it? I mean they do have the 2.5W nlight LD right? Why does Jack say they’re powered at 2.4W if they’re really powered at 1.1W? And if the driver isn’t getting regulation, then the LD’s defiantly not getting the power it truly wants! And I wouldn’t be too concerned about the crystals, heck it wouldn’t be too hard to add a cooling fan on the sucker. And last question, Gus, running the laser with double the power, did it ever reach the over heating safety cut beam shut off?
 
Nope! I haven't hit the heat cut-off, but I haven't ran it for more than a minute or so.

Another thing I noticed is that the actual 'spot' is a little bit bigger, I guess this would signify that with more pumping power, the lasing area of the crystals increases.

Oh and as far as measuring current on an rpl, it's very easy. Just take the battery cap off and put your DMM inbetween the + side of the battery and the case of the laser. Another note I should add is that the tailcap itself has a small resistance value, so if you want a truely accurate measure you have to run the + of the DMM to the + of the battery, the - of the DMM to the tailcap, and then make electrical contact with the tailcap and the body.

One of these days all this experimenting is going to bite me in the butt ;D
 
GooeyGus said:
Oh and as far as measuring current on an rpl, it's very easy. Just take the battery cap off and put your DMM inbetween the + side of the battery and the case of the laser. Another note I should add is that the tailcap itself has a small resistance value, so if you want a truely accurate measure you have to run the + of the DMM to the + of the battery, the - of the DMM to the tailcap, and then make electrical contact with the tailcap and the body.
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:-[  Damn!  I knew that  :-[

Sometimes the elevator just doesn't reach the penthouse

Peace,
dave
 
Hey Gus! Is the output more stable with this higher voltage?

Peace,
dave
 
LRMNmeyer said:
I hope all RPL's are like this.  :P
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I would suspect that many of them could use more voltage. BUT!!! I still want to reiterate that people SHOULDN'T DO THIS unless they are very aware of the risks and have enough knowledge to fix whatever may go wrong, or rich enough to not care.

We really dont have any solid *proof* that these have 2.5W diodes in them. I mean, why should they? If they can do 400mW at 1.1W why would it need the more powerful diode? I know that I paid $50 extra from pseudo to make sure I had the 2.5W n-lite diode, and I'm not saying that he wasn't truthful or anything, but again we dont have and solid solid evidence to prove what the diode is rated at other than what we've been told. Maybe I'll e-mail viasho and see what they say, these all have unique serial numbers so I'm sure they keep all that sort of stuff on file.
 
daguin said:
Hey Gus!  Is the output more stable with this higher voltage?

Peace,
dave
Click to expand...

Hmmm... not really. DPSS in handheld form is inherently unstable. I guess it depends on one's definition of stable. It peaks up to 700mW, drops to around 550mW, and then seems to be pretty stable at 600ish mW, but I haven't ran it long enough to really say how stable it is for how long.
 
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