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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

3-5W Blue Laser Pointer

diachi

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Ah I see. So the large silver enclosure and the computer chip looking thing on the opposite end are different from the diode? What exactly are the proper names of those two components, seen in the picture below?

Silver piece is the module/housing. Computer chip looking thing is the laser diode driver.

from the pictures you posted i clearly see that your diode's window is burned,this can be happend if any kind of junk burns in the window.there are two options to fix that,you buy a new bare diode or you can sent your laser to someone that can decan the diode for you.(after that you need to extra careful with it to not get any junk on the diode)


That's what I thought too, but the image wasn't quite clear enough to say for sure.


So when I was using the laser to burn things, I could put the tip as close as possible to the object I wanted to burn (sometimes I would press it against it) to maximize its strength, steady the laser, and block the bright reflection. Is that a bad idea?


That's a bad idea, you want some distance there. Otherwise you end up with gunk on your optics which ends up destroying the optics completely.
 





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Hi Crush,
If you want i can send you a diode for free it will be an M140 capable of 2+W's or an A140 capable of 1.6 to 1.8W's . let me know or send me a PM.. This way it will get you up and running again.

Rich:)
 
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So when I was using the laser to burn things, I could put the tip as close as possible to the object I wanted to burn (sometimes I would press it against it) to maximize its strength, steady the laser, and block the bright reflection. Is that a bad idea?

1st of all about your previous questions,the silver metal part is the housing or heatisink of your laser and the electronic board you see is the diode's driver.

yes this is bad because burned junk or even smoke can produce back reflections or even stick on the lens.i would suggest when you burning always have a safe distance from the laser and object.(i consider 20cm a safe distance for that,at least i never had those kind of problems)
 
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BobMc

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Hi Crush,
If you want i can send you a diode for free it will be an M140 capable of 2+W's or an A140 capable of 1.6 to 1.8W's . let me know or send me a PM.. This way it will get you up and running again.

Rich:)

Man that's a really nice offer Rich. :gj:

From what I've read/seen Crusher21, it sounds like you might not be able to do the repair yourself. Rich is quite proficient at builds and has upgrade a few "thor's before, you might want to talk to him about doing the repair. His quite reasonable and you would get a more reliable unit. Here's a link to one of his upgrades.

https://laserpointerforums.com/f39/...-price-dropped-135-00-2nd-day-mail-99514.html

Food for thought. Best wishes :)
 
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Hi,
From the way it looks from the link you posted the Thor is advertised as a 1.2W 445nm laser. so for the replacement diode i will send you an M type /A140 to match the setting on the driver. These are good forum to 1.6/1.8 mW's . Will send tomorrow with tracking #. On a side note i can build you a 3+W in a Thor host ,the Thor host holds 2X16340's , but i bore out the battery tube to hold 2X18350's for a much longer run time. I would machine a heat sink of either AL/Al with CU core or full CU this is a total upgrade from what the Chinese vendors sell


@ BM,
Hey Bob i have my moments and buy the looks of it all it will take is a replacement A140/445. So i have a few in stock. I don't mind helping out some time . And it delivers good karma to me.

Rich:)
 

BobMc

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@ BM,
Hey Bob i have my moments and buy the looks of it all it will take is a replacement A140/445. So i have a few in stock. I don't mind helping out some time . And it delivers good karma to me.

Rich:)

Rich I wasn't belittling your gift at all. I thought it was above and beyond!

I was just thinking that if he wasn't sure about how to solder onto a diode ( it can be tricky ) it might be better to send the whole unit to you. You work your magic, and he get a unit that lasts for years. Either way was just thinking. :)
 
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Hi Bob,
hey i didn't take it that way i know your style buddy no worries i always appreciate your replies . If the man need a fix i'm sure he will let me know or try to achieve his goal himself. Hey i press the easy button .

Rich:)
 
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All your questions seem to have been answered, but I would say that one should NEVER hold a laser against something you are trying to burn. It won't increase your power to the object because the light is collimated and 2 feet away the power would still be the same as at the lens. The smoke and gases emitted by the burning will deposit on your optics causing damage that may not clean off.
 

Encap

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All your questions seem to have been answered, but I would say that one should NEVER hold a laser against something you are trying to burn. It won't increase your power to the object because the light is collimated and 2 feet away the power would still be the same as at the lens. The smoke and gases emitted by the burning will deposit on your optics causing damage that may not clean off.

If that desperate to burn something use a kitchen match or lighter or blow torch--much better, easier, and cheaper
 

BobMc

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Hi Bob,
hey i didn't take it that way i know your style buddy no worries i always appreciate your replies . If the man need a fix i'm sure he will let me know or try to achieve his goal himself. Hey i press the easy button .

Rich:)


Thanks for the kind words Rich.

I agree, I like "easy" too

"work smarter, not harder". :crackup:
 
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Hi BM,
I been quoting that phrase for years to . I tell that to my boss all the time .. they just don't get it do they .

Rich:)
 
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I like that 501B with the protruding heat sink. Never saw one like it before, but it is similar to your other builds. Have you found a good way to separate the sections on a 501B that get stuck? I need to pull the green one you sent me apart to put a 502nm diode in it. Was thinking of using a heat gun and freeze spray to try to loosen it enough to unscrew that section.
 
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Thank you very much everyone for all the information! And thank you Rich for the diodes! So I definitely won't be burning anything with the laser at such close ranges anymore.
@Rich If I am unable to put the new diode in, could I send the whole unit to you for an upgrade? Just let me know how much it would cost.
On a new note: I was reading about the different laser companies on the forums and I came across Sanwu Lasers and the Spiker series. I was looking through the options and I wasn't sure what all of them really mean so I thought I'd ask here. One of the diode choices says "635nm(Bright Red) 1.6W G84 Tri-Beams". Is Tri-Beams just the name of the diode? Also, if you can choose between getting a laser equipped with Multi operation mode vs one with just single mode, why would anyone ever choose one with just single mode when the multi operations mode can do what the single mode can do and much more? And there was another option called "Focusing Lens" where I could choose between the standard lens, a G2 lens, and a G7 lens. What is the difference here? Is a G7 more focused than a G2 and the G2 and G7 more focused than the standard lens? And what exactly is a beam expander or a lightsaber attachment? I'm sorry for all the questions. Thanks again everyone!
 
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Hi,
Upgrade first thing they have really cheesy drivers , and the heat sinks are minimal for duty cycles. Why don't i build you a new Thor laser with better component that last.
As for the Sanu questions i think that Bob mac is the Sanwu guru here.

Rich:)
 

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