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FrozenGate by Avery

3-5W Blue Laser Pointer






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As for the Sanu questions i think that Bob mac is the Sanwu guru here.

Rich:)

Haaa, Sanwu guru :crackup:


Thank you very much everyone for all the information! And thank you Rich for the diodes! So I definitely won't be burning anything with the laser at such close ranges anymore.
@Rich If I am unable to put the new diode in, could I send the whole unit to you for an upgrade? Just let me know how much it would cost.
On a new note: I was reading about the different laser companies on the forums and I came across Sanwu Lasers and the Spiker series. I was looking through the options and I wasn't sure what all of them really mean so I thought I'd ask here. One of the diode choices says "635nm(Bright Red) 1.6W G84 Tri-Beams". Is Tri-Beams just the name of the diode? Also, if you can choose between getting a laser equipped with Multi operation mode vs one with just single mode, why would anyone ever choose one with just single mode when the multi operations mode can do what the single mode can do and much more? And there was another option called "Focusing Lens" where I could choose between the standard lens, a G2 lens, and a G7 lens. What is the difference here? Is a G7 more focused than a G2 and the G2 and G7 more focused than the standard lens? And what exactly is a beam expander or a lightsaber attachment? I'm sorry for all the questions. Thanks again everyone!


I'll try to answer the questions I can.

1) a tri-beam laser/diode has three emitters. It produces three beams.

See;

https://i.imgur.com/k5aQcgB.jpg


2) Muliti-mode vs single mode;
I have a few of both. Sometimes you want a laser that you won't have to worry about which mode it in. Comes in
handy at times.

3) g2 vs g7;
G2 will give you more burning power and a strong output. But it will have worse divergence ( wider sloppier beam.)
G7, will have a tighter divergence ( better looking beam) but will have less power and burning ability.
 
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What exactly is the pcb board and the focus adapter? And is the lens different from the glass that's on the diode? And what are the specifications of the new components?
 
Sounds like this time you will not be leaving lasers anytime soon. Good luck.
 
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I have the same laser pointer. Any suggestion on how to take the driver board out without destroying it, as it held in with epoxy?
 
Hi,
Shoot me now!!!

Rich:)

This whole thread is giving me that same feeling. "Can you hold my hand and tell me how everything works? Then, can you do it again? I am too lazy to look up anything for myself, so I would really be happy if you did it for me." :gun:
 
Hi, Thank You Paul for a moment i thought i was the only one feeling this way. Some time i don't knows folks are serious or just pulling our chain.

Rich:)
 
This whole thread is giving me that same feeling. "Can you hold my hand and tell me how everything works? Then, can you do it again? I am too lazy to look up anything for myself, so I would really be happy if you did it for me."

I’m just trying to figure out how to extract the driver without screwing it up! I already searched and didn’t find anything.
 
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This whole thread is giving me that same feeling. "Can you hold my hand and tell me how everything works? Then, can you do it again? I am too lazy to look up anything for myself, so I would really be happy if you did it for me."

I’m just trying to figure out how to extract the driver without screwing it up! I already searched and didn’t find anything.

You know there's a quote button, right? :p

Got any pictures of the driver, showing the glue?
 
Here are two photos of the epoxy. I would normallly use chemical, mechanical or heat “persuasion” to loosen things, but not with electronics.
 

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It's difficult to see, but looks like it can be pried loose with a small sharp tool. To removed the glue, this is probably your best option. Depending on how this laser failed, the driver may not even still be usable.
 
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The wiring to the diode looks awfully twisted. Is that how the Thors are usually built or did you turn the front in anyway at some point?
 
I noticed that too, Peter. Mine is not twisted anywhere near that much. When I was doing the review for it, I always took note of how many turns were needed to get it back in focus and made sure they never got twisted like that. He should be able to untwist it......and should as this could cause a wire to break loose.
 


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