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FrozenGate by Avery

200mW Green Modules @ $39 (Temp, SALE Price)

sooooo, who has a host that this is useable in? it slides into the newwish but i cant put the head on it
 





xXDUNNXx said:
sooooo, who has a host that this is useable in? it slides into the newwish but i cant put the head on it
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Here's a good looking host with great heatsinking for the module:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/fs-stainless-steel-green-kit-polished-easy-assembly-56412.html

This module does have an extra 'lip' or larger diameter front piece (about .011 thousandth's), so I would have to size the heatsink to fit it... (or you could also machine down the front of the module a little)

I just got one of these modules today and I turned around and ordered another! :D

I can't believe it is over 180mW's with a 3 Volt e2 battery! (battery current draw - 642mA's steady) No need to even try a rechargeable. No need to put any extra heat to it...

Great find Dave! Hope my next one is as good...
 
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would realigning the optics and/or putting in the little lens that came with the wl e2 532nm get any extra power? is it worth it?
 
The one I got is awesome!

I won't be messing with it at all...
 
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my beam is ~13 degrees off :( it cuts electrical tape like its nothing :) its just as bright as my 1w 445 e2
 
Hmmm... one disappointing thing to report...

I just put an IR filter in the beam path, and it has a lot of IR. Because it is only about (edit: re-test) 113mW's with the filter in the beam path vs 180mW's with no IR filter.

That's way high compared to about a 10% loss with the same comparisons I've done with O-like modules...
 
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jayrob said:
Hmmm... one disappointing thing to report...

I just put an IR filter in the beam path, and it has a lot of IR. Because it is only about 100mW's with the filter in the beam path vs 180mW's with no IR filter.

That's way high compared to about a 10% loss with the same comparisons I've done with O-like modules...
Click to expand...

yeah, mine had a fair amount of IR going through, but 80 is over the top.
 
ok, I guess I am the first to kill one... :banghead:

I was positioning it in a copper heat sink, and I think I shorted something out...

Can someone give me a few tips on how to check if i killed the driver vs. the diode?
(without desoldering it preferred)

Added:

I was running with a 12V p/s (like the type for the galvos) with a LM317t circuit putting out 3.1 VDC
I soldered wires onto the case lead positive (soldered very quickly!) and soldered the negative to the button switch.
Laser worked fine for about 3 minutes, until I was adjusting it's position on a copper heatskin.
then it just stopped working. No sparks, no smoke, no smell.

any advice is much appreciated...
 
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Check voltages. Voltage across the diode, voltage from the PSU, voltage from the lm317, voltage at the switch...
 
voltage from PSU = 12VDC
voltage out from regulator = 3.2
I measured 1.18VDC across the diode... (can to 2nd pin - there are 3 pins on this diode. 1 is the case, and the other 2 go inside.

As I was measuring I noted the module was getting warm, so curious, I took out my celly and fired up the camera...

sure enough, it's putting out IR...

so it's LED'ed... yes?

(Also, I definitely didn't move the driver/bend the diode pins)
 
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From my tests previously they are under power and mine had something like 70mW of IR. Modules looks the same and it was also from IQS. Sorry I didnt chime in sooner.
 
I don't know how much current the module draws... (I know, I'm such a noob) But I did not adjust the pot on the driver, so anyone that hos one of these modules can let me know what the proper vlaue should be...

If there is a tutorial on how to troubleshoot these kinds of issues, I'd be happy to work thru that.

When I power up the module, I get IR (as viewed through a digital camera for safety), it warms up, as does the driver.
 
sorry to chime in, but check all the solderpoints on the driver...my switch was basically sitting there :(
 
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