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FrozenGate by Avery

12x BR DIODES

andyf97 said:
jesus fellas, I have been reading about this development for a few days and honestly I am quite surprized.

I would like to do some tests here, are you buying complete drives and extracting the diodes or is somebody selling the diodes already extracted.

I would like.
Tests with without lens. Hard I know with the diodes divegence.
Test all using same driver.
Test With Temperiture monitoring on a none cooled diode, no heatsink, bare diode.
Test with excessive cooling at a specific currents
Test with excessive heating at a specific currents

This way to remove any side effects and also establish maximum ratings for the diodes.

Test to establish the diodes exact raw divergence

I dont mind to do a few "test till die" if the diode prices are ok.

Andy
Click to expand...

These results are all from people extracting the diodes from drives. I suppose you could pay someone to extract for you if you want, but when the drive is $200, you'll have to work out who is paying for what in the event of an accident. I'm certainly going to be wary of extracting someone else's $200 diode, even though I don't mind doing my own diode.

And what do you mean with the "I would like."? You mean you would like other people to do those tests for you? Or are you offering to do those tests yourself in order to help us out?
 





I being me, I don't mind to hammer a few to death and of course the results will help everyone.

I will need like 4-6 units so if you all keep an eye open I will get some and do a complete test of several at the same time with same conditions.
 
andyf97 said:
I being me, I don't mind to hammer a few to death and of course the results will help everyone.

I will need like 4-6 units so if you all keep an eye open I will get some and do a complete test of several at the same time with same conditions.
Click to expand...

They are all over. Right now the only 12X are coming from Pioneer (The Plextor is a Pioneer re-brand)

Just search BDR-205 any place that carries BR writers. Here are a few ideas:
eBay
Newegg
Geeks.com

Peace,
dave
 
New 12X build...



Just put a 12X diode in my 'Ice Box' TEC build...

The build uses a Meredith mounting block, which has a 1/2" hole for the module, so instead of using a Meredith module (which does not have a 'pressed in' design for the diode), I made a 1/2" copper module so that I could have a pressed in diode.

The custom copper module is of course threaded for my 405-G-1 glass lens assembly. :)

IBtut17.jpg

IBtut18.jpg

IBtut19.jpg

IBtut20.jpg


The build details are here if your interested:
http://laserpointerforums.com/laser_pointer_forums_3/forum/showthread.php?t=37239

I have it set at a fairly conservative setting like I normally do with my builds...

350mA's / 480mW's

Here's a video of it cutting a wood match in half: :cool:

The blue light on the side is the Li-Po alarm. It changes colors as the batteries get lower and lower...

LiPo Alarm color code:

Bright blue - Full charge
Cyan - Very good
Green - Good
Yellow/Amber - Low warning
Red - Batteries low (70%)

 
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jayrob said:


I have it set at a fairly conservative setting like I normally do with my builds...

350mA's / 480mW's

Here's a video of it cutting a wood match in half: :cool:

Click to expand...

I have to bookmark this video. People are always asking, "Can't we set it higher?" I try to explain that they will NEVER notice the difference between 500mW and 600mW of violet, but they rarely believe me. Most of them are really only looking to pop balloons, etc and think that they need to rival yobresal's work to do so. Here is 480mW cutting through a wooden match.

Nice work, Jay

Peace,
dave
 
jayrob said:
New 12X build...
Just put a 12X diode in my 'Ice Box' TEC build...

The build uses a Meredith mounting block, which has a 1/2" hole for the module, so instead of using a Meredith module (which does not have a 'pressed in' design for the diode), I made a 1/2" copper module so that I could have a pressed in diode.

IBtut19.jpg
Click to expand...

Jay;

Now, you are talking a good heatsink design.

That should easily handle a WATT of BR power.

LarryDFW
 
Thanks for the props guys! :)

Dave, that's cool that you said that, because there is a part of me that says 'at least go for the class 4 man'... But I have learned to stick with my gut feeling with current settings. And I just want to make sure an expensive diode like this lasts. I feel that at this setting, I can run it much heavier than I normally do with other builds. Especially with TEC.

I imagine 600mW's would be a bit better, but like you say, just how much better will it be? I'll wait for the 16X! (or what ever is next)




Larry, yeah now that I have a 'bottoming' tap, I can thread deep enough to make modules...

But this build also has thermoelectric cooling as well! :cool:
 
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