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FrozenGate by Avery

1 watt 365nm UV Flashlight Safe To Use Without Goggles?

Ah, thanks. Odd to have a buck driver for a 200mA draw, or is that figure wrong too?
 





zyxwv99 said:
It's too bad they don't make real Wood's glass any more. I've seen the specs on the Rosco Pemracolor dichroic filter #3660 Double Coated UV Pass and it doesn't look too good. Real Wood's glass, on the other hand, is a genuine 365nm bandpass filter. (Wood's glass - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia) Of course it has issues, which is why they stopped making it.
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Yeah, I just found its datasheet again and its peak is more around 380nm, not 365nm. I had forgotten that I went for that one because it was so much less expensive than something like a Baader "Venus" U2 filter, which is like $250. They're not Wood's glass, but better dichroic filters made specifically for 300-390nm. I believe Wood's glass only achieves about 60% throughput (like the Rosco filter, but Rosco's has a shifted bandpass), whereas this achieves about 85%.
 
I found some 2" dia circular UV pass filters on eBay for photography that seems to have a good transmission spectrum for sub-410nm light. It won't work well as a 365nm notch filter but if the leakage is well above 400nm it may suffice.
 
Sigurthr said:
Ah, thanks. Odd to have a buck driver for a 200mA draw, or is that figure wrong too?
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Just checked again, and current draw peaks at 4.2V and ~210mA and drops at values higher or lower than that. I haven't actually taken it apart, but that is how a buck driver behaves.
 
Cyparagon said:
Just checked again, and current draw peaks at 4.2V and ~210mA and drops at values higher or lower than that. I haven't actually taken it apart, but that is how a buck driver behaves.
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Ohh it is 200mA tail cap current! That makes more sense now, and yup that sounds like a buck driver. Should provide nice long runtime at that low draw. Can't wait to get it and see how it performs.

Btw, Cyparagon, what camera did you use to take the photo of the emitter? All my cams are blind to 410 and lower.
 
No, the tail-cap current peaks at 200mA, which is a good indicator that the LED also gets 200mA. At 8.4V, it's only 90mA draw or something like that.

I've never paid more than $50 for a camera in my life. So your camera isn't the problem. Try various filters or settings I suppose. It would help to lower the die's output, too.
 
Aye, I understood what you meant by peaks; I was originally thinking it was 200mA to the LED @ some ridiculous Vf (~10V) and had a boost driver from the 1 or 2 cell description.

Not sure how settings and filters would help my cams see <410nm when they don't now, unless you mean removing filters, haha. Only my flip sees 404/405nm.
 
Sigurthr said:
I found some 2" dia circular UV pass filters on eBay for photography that seems to have a good transmission spectrum for sub-410nm light. It won't work well as a 365nm notch filter but if the leakage is well above 400nm it may suffice.
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Do you have a link for the filter? I'm looking for something like that.
 
Thanks! Was expecting something cheaper, LOL. Might be easier to just break an incandescent black light :P
 
Atomicrox said:
Thanks! Was expecting something cheaper, LOL. Might be easier to just break an incandescent black light :P
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I've always wondered if breaking blacklights is a way to harvest woods glass, or if they use some paint, and what the properties of that painted glass is in comparison to woods glass. Those bulbs are cheap, and if it filters good enough, may as well. I've been wanting a ~365nm UV light for a while. Recently acquired some more fluorescent items too :(
 
According to this sourse (UV Lighting and Accessories : UV SYSTEMS, Inc. scroll down to item 29) black lights from Phillips Lighting have the best filtering, blocking out much more visible light than other brands.

Incidentally, I think they stopped making Woods glass back in the 1980s. (Corning seems to have been the last company.) It had technical issues, especially involving humidity and crazing.
 
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Skin Cancer... Otherwise treat the flashlight as any other. Don't look into it, and if your eyes feel sore stop using it :)
 
AFAIK True Wood's Glass is no longer produced. Most places use modern (poor efficacy) replacements that are far cheaper and easier to manufacture. The coatings used on the incandescent lamps pass a large portion of the red and NIR/IR spectrum and have a shifted passband hump than woods glass has, but it does still work for noncritical applications.
 
i have one of these uv 365 501b from ebay, it was listed as 3W but i think it is just 1W, 3W emitters normally have two die chips inside but mine only has one,

anyway the ebay listing stated 1 x 18650 for battery usage but after seeing everyone on here using 2 x 16340/18350 i thought i would have a go, its alot brighter now and i can actually feel a slight amount of heat up close , it didnt blow anything after 20 seconds so it should be fine........
 
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