Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

LPF Donation via Stripe | LPF Donation - Other Methods

Links below open in new window

ArcticMyst Security by Avery

1.6W Peak 445nm SS 18650 Jayrob host W/'custom 'Hot' option' heatsink on driver

Joined
Oct 11, 2007
Messages
106
Points
0
Wow, that's impressive. What current did you set the diode to? Or did you just max out the flexdrive?
 





Joined
Jun 19, 2009
Messages
2,710
Points
0
Did a quick browse through your recent posts. Did not see any FAIL threads. But regardless you cant let a failure stop you from trying again(unless you lost an arm or something and if so I am sorry for being insensitive).

The picture still makes me chuckle :crackup:

http://laserpointerforums.com/f44/another-build-failure-50289.html

disaster.jpg
 
Joined
Jun 26, 2010
Messages
207
Points
0
I just bought a similar laser. Same host, but 1.1W, from Daguin. I CAN'T FREAKING WAIT to get it. I just hope it's nearly as well-heatsinked as yours. Power means nothing if your diode overheats.
 

awlego

0
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
160
Points
0
Holy moly man! That's an awesome laser. I've been eyeing that exact same build recently.... this review REALLY makes me want to order all the parts right now.

And the fog is overkill indoors :crackup:

Thanks for the review!
 

DTR

0
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
5,684
Points
113
I have been thinking about the issue of run-time on these units we are building. Let me know if I am off base.

These Casio diodes need 4V to operate and the batteries we use are at most 4.2V fully charged. This is why we use flexdrives and microboost drivers because of their ability to boost voltage to match the voltage needs of the diode at the expense of capacity(run-time). But this is also our alkalies heel.

I can only get in the 1.6W range from a fully charged battery fresh out of the toaster. If I use one that is half charged it starts in the mid 1.4W range and I am sure that I could not do a 3min run. I think that our biggest enemy is the ability of the battery to stay above 4V when the driver is set to max. As soon as the battery dropes below 4V the driver starts to boost the voltage by pulling more current that is not used being transformed into heat. This is causing it to run less efficently and when set to max current it heats up real quick.


It is an expodential heat increase as it draws more current from the battery to boost the voltage the battery falls faster. The faster the battery falls the harder it tries to boost and the hotter it gets.
 
Last edited:

DTR

0
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
5,684
Points
113
@2007Revolution
Sorry for the double post but I just saw this and I am just beside myself. That has to be a joke and if not it is the funniest and saddest thing I think I have seen here.:crackup::cryyy: Did you think about maybe using a little less solder or maybe even wires that went from the driver to the diode.:thinking:

I'm guessing you didn't see the thread about my last build lol.

 
Last edited:

cd520

0
Joined
Aug 2, 2010
Messages
272
Points
0
Nice build, looks awesome indeed. Im in the process of choosing my 445 host now and the SS looked so nice but no heatsink option (until now) for the flexdrive crossed it off my list.

It would be nice to see someone come up with a driver that could use 2 18650's in series to power these beasts and perhaps limit some of the driver heat issues running these high current LD's. I myself would be all over a 2 18650 host for a 445.
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
341
Points
0
i'd like to try turning mine up this far :lasergun:
think i've got a boost drive though. Also my wires twisted like you mentioned not to do lol, and broke recently. maybe entwined like that there was too much quantum tunnelling :D
 

jayrob

0
Joined
Sep 21, 2007
Messages
9,862
Points
113
I'm guessing you didn't see the thread about my last build lol.

There's a bunch of videos on YouTube for soldering, but this short clip shows the main thing that is needed for soldering:



It's very important to have the tip clean, and to pre-tin...

If you pre-tin the wire, as well as the tip, then hold the wire parallel to the diode pin and touch both parts at the same time.

It will only take about 1 second (or less), of a touch to the diode pin.

I like to use 60/40 .032 size...

Also, it's much easier to solder a fine wire to the diode pin, than it is to solder the diode directly to the driver.

For the smaller builds, I like the really fine wire found in a computer mouse cord. The copper stuff. (most mice have several strands of fine copper wire in the cord)
 
Last edited:

Mickey

0
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Messages
33
Points
0
Excellent build!!! I am so jealous! I am going to PM Jay and see if he will do me a kit! Beam shots are amazing!
 
Joined
Jul 27, 2010
Messages
81
Points
0
Awesome! I've got pretty much the same build coming from Jayrob. He is going to try and set the V5 for 1.2A, but from what I understand the pot just won't adjust in that range. Great pics BTW!
 
Joined
Apr 28, 2009
Messages
2,416
Points
63
@2007Revolution
I would build it for you, if you can obtain the kit and send it to me. If interested send me a PM. I don't know if Jay has any more kits at the moment though, so contact him first.
 

jayrob

0
Joined
Sep 21, 2007
Messages
9,862
Points
113
Kits are available, but I have a back log of orders plus a camping trip 8/15 - 8/22...

I hate not being able to ship within a couple of days like I used to always be able to do. But these days it's been a couple of weeks out...

I was getting caught up. But now I'm going camping and it will get me backed up again...

I will be checking messages every day, but no building or shipping until I get back...
 

DTR

0
Joined
Jun 24, 2010
Messages
5,684
Points
113
Ok guys

Ran a few test today with different batteries fully charged and came up with some surprising results. I also was looking for better lighting for the test but since I am using my phone for the videos they are still not great but better.

So I have three types of 18650's. Ultrafire 2400mAh, AW 2600mAh, and a Trustfire 2500mAh.
20100813sdf232924.jpg


So I ran some LPM test's starting with the Ultrafire 2400mAh
1582mW peak. 44mW less than the AW. Sounded right since I expected it to be lower with this battery. (Sorry my phone died in the middle of the run)




Then I tried after a cool-down period the Trustfire 2500mAh.
1641mW peak. Really was not expecting that. It is 15mW higher than the AW.



So this is initial power output on a freshly charged battery not taking into consideration the duration the battery will last.

Anyway thought it might be good info.
 
Last edited:




Top