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FrozenGate by Avery

1.6W Peak 445nm SS 18650 Jayrob host W/'custom 'Hot' option' heatsink on driver

*On topic, I still want to know the current! Isn't there a way to determine this from:

driver effieciency, battery current draw, battery voltage and voltage across the diode?

Can any of the electronics geniuses comment here?

M
:)

Hey Morgan.....

I can't quite make out what you are asking or pertaining
to what exactly...:thinking:

Or maybe it's just me....:yabbem:

Jerry
 





Hey Jerry...

I actually think I'm in the wrong thread! :undecided: I'm thinking of DTR's other thread with the 12x BR!

However, by accident, all we know is the Flexdrive is maxed out. I know that's 1.5A but when I maxed mine out I didn't quite get that and they are twitchy at the extremes so I guess it's still a valid question.

The actual technique I have been told about takes the driver efficiency rating, and by using that, the input current and voltage, can determine the current output of the driver as long as you know the voltage across the diode.

I think if I sat down with a calculator for long enough I may work it out but I'd never be sure until someone could confirm or deny, first, that it can be done this way and, second, that I was doing right!

Am I on a wild goose chase? Is this a red herring? Or could it be top dog?

M
:)
 
Hmm, I've looked through your fine review here and the accompanying posts of others and didn't see where the mAs were mentioned.

What were the milliamps set at?

I actually have this same build except for the driver heatsink. I am thinking that I may have Jayrob produce me a driver heatsink.

-Scott
 
I actually mentioned in the post before your one but you may have missed that.

The spec sheet for the Flexdrive shows maximum current as 1.5A in the highest current setting range. This Flexdrive is maxed out.

M
:)
 
I actually mentioned in the post before your one but you may have missed that.

The spec sheet for the Flexdrive shows maximum current as 1.5A in the highest current setting range. This Flexdrive is maxed out.

M
:)


D'oh! :D my reading eyes weren't set for Amps but mAmps.

Sorry!

Thanks for the quick reply.

-Scott
 
Hey guys

Have been out for a few hours and saw there was some action here.

The flexdrive in this beast is set to 1460mA. That is as high as this driver will go. So it is not actually 1.5A but just under and rounds up nicely to 1.5A.

Morgan you are always welcome to threadjack here or on any of my threads.:beer:

BobFarmer I am glad you feel you have a good understanding of the dangers of laser but I did want to add a note for inexperienced individuals that may take firearm safety as the same as laser safety. With firearms you never want to point your gun at anything that you don't intend to destroy. With lasers you always need to be aware of the properties of what you are pointing it at. A reflection can be as dangerous as pointing it directly at something with the added danger of not knowing where it can go from there.

With that said I hope your build goes well which I am sure it will since you seem to be doing all the right research in preparation.:yh:
 
Hey guys

Have been out for a few hours and saw there was some action here.

The flexdrive in this beast is set to 1460mA. That is as high as this driver will go. So it is not actually 1.5A but just under and rounds up nicely to 1.5A.

Morgan you are always welcome to threadjack here or on any of my threads.:beer:

BobFarmer I am glad you feel you have a good understanding of the dangers of laser but I did want to add a note for inexperienced individuals that may take firearm safety as the same as laser safety. With firearms you never want to point your gun at anything that you don't intend to destroy. With lasers you always need to be aware of the properties of what you are pointing it at. A reflection can be as dangerous as pointing it directly at something with the added danger of not knowing where it can go from there.

With that said I hope your build goes well which I am sure it will since you seem to be doing all the right research in preparation.:yh:

There's the additional safety feature involved in a DIY kit, ie: the likelihood that what I build won't even work! ;)

In all seriousness, I'm one of the multi-point security guys. My lasers are in one safe, my batteries in another. I keep my laser in a static bag, I use the keylock, close the aperture, etc etc. I have a family to think about too, and prefer their eyes work...

I think the most attractive thing to me about this build is the host. I just love the shiny SS case it is in. I think I'll be pestering Jay for the same host on my smaller builds--I'd love to have a few different colors and powers in the same one.

One question though, DTR--do you know what the life expectancy of your diode is with the driver cranked up to 1460mA? Is it hard to replace when it burns out? (I ordered 2. :))
 
I'm certain it'll work! Lol!

If I may on the rest...

No life expectancy can be predicted really. It is known that these diodes are run up to above this level but that's only pulsed, (you'll have to do a search for the exact figures). The added difference is the environment: Comparitively tiny host , or, 'in-projector', heatsink that reaches 70-80 Deg/C?

The lifetime runs just can't be given yet but then again... Who cares?!!! 1Watt for 1Day is gonna give anyone thrills! :D

Nice to hear the exact mA DTR and of your safety conscience too BobFarmer. You'll be fine here!

M
:)
 
I love this build and I really want one, id sell some stuff just to get one! But I'm totally worried about the life expectancy of these diodes at this power. Waiting to see how long others last at over a watt and doing lots of burning before I blow $200-300 more dollars on 445nm
 
^ For $50, (the price of the actual diode!), I really wouldn't be worrying about the lifetime in these DIY hosts. It's 200-300 wasted dollars for an Arctic IMO, (1.25W G1 in your sig? :huh: ), but not for this very well put together host. You could replace a blown diode in half an hour.

M
:)
 
I love this build and I really want one, id sell some stuff just to get one! But I'm totally worried about the life expectancy of these diodes at this power. Waiting to see how long others last at over a watt and doing lots of burning before I blow $200-300 more dollars on 445nm

^ For $50, (the price of the actual diode!), I really wouldn't be worrying about the lifetime in these DIY hosts. It's 200-300 wasted dollars for an Arctic IMO, (1.25W G1 in your sig? :huh: ), but not for this very well put together host. You could replace a blown diode in half an hour.

M
:)

I keep a few extra diodes on hand in case one goes out. But with all my builds that I use a lot I have not had any die yet. These little diodes are proving to be very tough. I am in the process of getting one set to 1.7A in my 3405 host with two microboost drives running at 850mA and set in parallel. We will see how it holds up under that current.
 
I keep a few extra diodes on hand in case one goes out. But with all my builds that I use a lot I have not had any die yet. These little diodes are proving to be very tough. I am in the process of getting one set to 1.7A in my 3405 host with two microboost drives running at 850mA and set in parallel. We will see how it holds up under that current.

Oh great. Now I'm going to want one of those too.
 
Ok, so what was the exact config that you ordered from Jayrob, I think I want to do this build really bad, and any other parts that you got to build this?
 
Ok, so what was the exact config that you ordered from Jayrob, I think I want to do this build really bad, and any other parts that you got to build this?

You would need for the exact same build.
A diode and a Aixiz module. I used an A140 diode.
The SS 18650 Hot kit W/Flexdrive set to max from Jay
Options: copper heatsink, copper module, EzFocus Adapter and the heatsink upgrade for the driver.
I have both the 405-G-1 lens for burning/power tests and the 405/445 Aixiz Glass for pointing.
Then you just need a battery and charger.

Good luck with your build:beer:
 


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