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FrozenGate by Avery

1.5w 405nm

RedCowboy said:
Yep I saw these before but rather than a 1.5w multi mode blue/violet I would rather have another BDR-209 at 2/3 the price........ Take a look at techhood/extotem in this add, he is claiming 1200mw at 1a I wonder if these have become more robust ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16X-BDR209...n/232756656516?hash=item363160b984:rk:15:pf:0
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:unsure:mm, but It says below the testing data; Quote - Testing data from LPF site. So i doubt he/they are doing any individual testing on them. Not many BDR´s survive long over 600mA IIRC :coffee:
 





RedCowboy said:
Yep I saw these before but rather than a 1.5w multi mode blue/violet I would rather have another BDR-209 at 2/3 the price........ Take a look at techhood/extotem in this add, he is claiming 1200mw at 1a I wonder if these have become more robust ?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/16X-BDR209...n/232756656516?hash=item363160b984:rk:15:pf:0
Click to expand...
They are claiming this high output at 650 mA. I really don't think these are a totally new version than the ones we have seen blow at 1000 mW. I think this is just a sales ploy and to set the current to 650 mA you might get lucky and get a diode that will hold up, but it is more likely that it will fail within a few hours of use. If that.
 
paul1598419 said:
They are claiming this high output at 650 mA. I really don't think these are a totally new version than the ones we have seen blow at 1000 mW. I think this is just a sales ploy and to set the current to 650 mA you might get lucky and get a diode that will hold up, but it is more likely that it will fail within a few hours of use. If that.
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What they claimed was what they saw in the DTR test panel, I even killed these diodes at 750ma after a few hours, with a pico drive
I never trust the parameters from these sellers, they even write the parameters for nubm08 as follows
voltage <6V
current <6a
If some new people have never tested and provided 5.5a, the diodes will die or shorten the life expectancy.
 
The mm violet diodes from JT will hold up at 520 mA just fine. The output with a G2 lens is between 750mW-800 mW. the best optical profile with the tightest spot is prodused when the G2 lens is positioned so the concave side is facing the diode and the convex side is outward. Not as tight as a BDR 16x, but it is a great engraver ! This ofcourse is from my own experience. I hope others have had the same.
 
wolfram said:
The mm violet diodes from JT will hold up at 520 mA just fine. The output with a G2 lens is between 750mW-800 mW. the best optical profile with the tightest spot is produced when the G2 lens is positioned so the concave side is facing the diode and the convex side is outward. Not as tight as a BDR 16x, but it is a great engraver ! This of course is from my own experience. I hope others have had the same.
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THANX that is good to know what is even better?? The price of BRAND NEW ones (JTs come from 'pulls' ) is already down to $40 & now to $36 w/ Free$hip. (on sale Thhood)
so $72 and a driver that will run both (and heat sinks, fans and combiner PBS cube with supported analog modulation would make a dandy 1.6+W of tight 405.. and While still be kind to your diodes ... 'me lase you long time' (Me so horny)
 
I actually just pressed one of the multimode 1.5W diodes from Junktronix into a module from DTR last night https://ibb.co/Svhm5hv (Wasn't all the way in in the picture) But, I'm finishing a lm317 driver for it right now, are multimodes really that bad?
 
Hi Nae K,
Your diode is not pressed in properly needs to be flush and even with the back of the 12mm module. You need to go home and do it again, It will need more pressing for ultimate heat sinking.

Rich:)
 
Lifetime17 said:
Hi Nae K,
Your diode is not pressed in properly needs to be flush and even with the back of the 12mm module. You need to go home and do it again, It will need more pressing for ultimate heat sinking.

Rich:)
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Hey man thanks for the advice, I said it wasnt in all the way, that was before I pressed it flush with the vice ( I found a video that helped out really well). Thank you though, I pressed it a bit and realized it was crooked so I tried it again and realized it went in more it was a bit recessed into that part of the module when I finished, I can show a picture of it now :)
 
You got lucky, as pressing these off angle usually means you have to pull the diode out and start over. There are pressing tools that help keep this from happening and if you are going to press more diodes, you should consider getting them. I had a TO-5 diode go in crooked and had to get it pressed out and then put into another module. I also have the removal tools to press the diode out of the module.
 
paul1598419 said:
You got lucky, as pressing these off angle usually means you have to pull the diode out and start over. There are pressing tools that help keep this from happening and if you are going to press more diodes, you should consider getting them. I had a TO-5 diode go in crooked and had to get it pressed out and then put into another module. I also have the removal tools to press the diode out of the module.
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Ah I used the tool that came with the modules off of DTR's site, as I showed Lifetime in PM's this was the end result https://ibb.co/1frLGvJ But I'll have to check out some removal tools never hurts to have them in case I do mess up. Thank you.
 
Hi, Yes you can get them in sets press in and press out . I have all of them and I also bought the presses for the 20 and 25 mm modules. They are a god sent if you like to build and last a lifetime.

Rich:)
 
Lifetime17 said:
Hi, Yes you can get them in sets press in and press out . I have all of them and I also bought the presses for the 20 and 25 mm modules. They are a god sent if you like to build and last a lifetime.

Rich:)
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That's good to know, thanks again to everyone, I found one for 5.6mm press out, which for the time being I only have 5.6mm diodes so that checks out.
 
Good stuff.
Pressing diodes for me is still very scary.
Failing eyesight is now a problem.
Have not yet actually pressed a 3.8 ... 9mm no big probs--5.6 ..I need to get another/better tool.
Any opinions on how well the 'screw-together' black modules do? & Weird sizes don't make them any more appealing--16 and 18 mm.
AND they can be improved on besides active cooling-- and better/bigger heat sink& fan(s)
 
I use an especially large pair of channel locks to press all my diodes. I adhered a piece of steel to the upper serrated edge to keep them from marring the copper modules I use. It seems to work better than anything else I've tried, even a vise.
 
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paul1598419 said:
I use an especially large pair of channel locks to press all my diodes. I adhered apiece of steel to the upper serrated edge to keep them from marring the copper modules I use. It seems to work better than anything else I've tried, even a vise.
Click to expand...
I'll have to try that out for the m140 diode I still have lying around, with the vise it is a challenge to keep it straight. I didn't think of channel locks but that sounds like a good idea.:unsure:
 
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