Guidance/Advice On 1.3W 520nm Build

[Jon]

After reading up a bit on options for 520nm lasers around 1W I have decided to go the extra step to a NDG7475 diode. Here is a list of everything I am planning to buy:

NDG7475 1W 520nm Laser Diode
In 12mm Copper Module
W/Leads & G-2 Glass lens
Link Here

S4X™ Host Assembly with
Aluminum Drilled Driver Pill
Extended & Tapered Length Copper Heat Sink
Link Here

BlitzBuck V5 Adjustable Diode Driver
Link Here

Power Supply
2x 18650 Batteries

Originally I was going to use a module with a x drive already connected here But I instead wanted a circular driver to make it a bit easier when putting together everything. My biggest question about my build is if anyone knows/assumes if I would have to adjust the blitzbuck driver or if it should be good as is. Because as far as adjusting a driver goes...I have no experience to do that but at the same time want a driver that will fit nicely into the ring that goes into the driver pill. It would be extremely helpful if anyone here with a decent knowledge of building lasers could look over everything I listed to assure I'm all good as well as address my driver question. If it does turn out I would have to adjust the driver then what would be the best way to go about installing the x drive with this module in the selected host's driver pill? Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

 

[Lifetime17]

hi And welcome,
Ok if your buying from SL and plan to use a driver get the aluminum pill with the shelf on it so you can sink the driver to it..Some pics for you ..

Rich

 

[Jon]

hi And welcome,
Ok if your buying from SL and plan to use a driver get the aluminum pill with the shelf on it so you can sink the driver to it..Some pics for you ..

Rich

Those are some nice pictures! Just to be 100% sure, you are referring to the pill option "heat sink aluminum driver pill" as that is the only one that I could see having a shelf like the picture attached. Bad on my part for not exploring the pill options enough. With that shelf I can easily use this module with super x drive already wired and simply stick it on with some thermal adhesive.

 

[BobMc]

Buy directly from DTR's web site rather than through eBay, you'll be dealing with the same person, trustworthy, and it will save you a few bucks, looks like your on course, best wishes. .

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes

 

[GSS]

Buy directly from DTR's web site rather than through eBay, you'll be dealing with the same person, trustworthy, and it will save you a few bucks, looks like your on course, best wishes.

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes

I was thinking that also..
Jon how hard are you planning on running the driver?

 

[Jon]

I was thinking that also..
Jon how hard are you planning on running the driver?

IF you mean setting the current, I am not planning on doing that as I have no experience with it. But if you mean running as in duty cycle I will run it moderately long depending on how hot it gets. Otherwise not sure what you mean, excuse me for my inexperience. Also, would anyone be able to give me any opinions on the x-drive vs. the blitzbuck v5 and whether or not the blitzbuck has the current set appropriately off the bat? I'm also a bit clueless on why you would want a 20mm diode module over a 12mm.

 

[Lifetime17]

Those are some nice pictures! Just to be 100% sure, you are referring to the pill option "heat sink aluminum driver pill" as that is the only one that I could see having a shelf like the picture attached. Bad on my part for not exploring the pill options enough. With that shelf I can easily use this module with super x drive already wired and simply stick it on with some thermal adhesive.

Yes this is better for the heat to run the driver its a better option . Your running the SXD at 2.2 to 2.4A for that diode should be heat sinked. In the future check out my sales thread for hosts heat sinks and more .

Rich

 

[dden4012]

Get the short back half on the 12mm module if you go with the shelf pill. I would also recommend the external lens spring, their focus tip, and a 2 element lens not the g2.
Edit: There is the blackbuck driver as well. DTR can set the current for you and attach the driver to the diode. You will want to limit the on time with a module like this since the driver isn't sinked to anything. The shelf pill setup mean your stuck with that driver on the pill making future swap outs more work. Like what's mentioned on the post below there is barely any difference in appreciable visual output from 1w to 1.3. If you have a LPM and want to see 1.4w then go ahead and bake your $200 diode. Plenty of of us do it but it's just for bragging. No irl gain.
I have a SX4 host and it's great. The whole host acts as a heatsink. I have a few Lifetime17 hosts and he does great work. They are flashlight conversions and typically have plenty of working room in the bezel. If you don't feel like polishing tarnish off of copper he can make a heatsink that has a hefty copper core with an aluminum shell.
Electricplasma also makes hosts to order not flashlight conversions. They are made from raw materials front to back.
SL makes a great SX4 host and is a nice challenge for someone new to the hobby.

Lots of o

 

[GSS]

IF you mean setting the current, I am not planning on doing that as I have no experience with it. But if you mean running as in duty cycle I will run it moderately long depending on how hot it gets. Otherwise not sure what you mean, excuse me for my inexperience. Also, would anyone be able to give me any opinions on the x-drive vs. the blitzbuck v5 and whether or not the blitzbuck has the current set appropriately off the bat? I'm also a bit clueless on why you would want a 20mm diode module over a 12mm.

Yes I meant current. Dtr shows a max at 2.2A which should give roughly 1.3W. At max though it will decrease the life of the diode over time.
1.8A will give 1.1W+ and in theory should give your diode a longer life. There really isn't much difference from 1.1W to 1.3W once you get to that level of power.
Dtr. is showing he's out of stock of the SX drives so 2A and up isn't an option for now.
He does though have X drives at 1.8A and he sells the complete 12mm module with the driver attached and preset with the G2 lens. So no worry of setting it yourself.
At 1.8A there's no need of sinking the driver if you choose.
Give a look at Lifetime17's already pre made plug and play hosts. You just connect the 2 wires from Dtr's module and slide it in his customed heat sinked host of your choice.
The x drive's will run on 2 18650's..

 

[BobMc]

Yes I meant current. Dtr shows a max at 2.2A which should give roughly 1.3W. At max though it will decrease the life of the diode over time.
1.8A will give 1.1W+ and in theory should give your diode a longer life. There really isn't much difference from 1.W to 1.3W once you get to that level of power.
Dtr. is showing he's out of stock of the SX drives so 2A and up isn't an option for now.
He does though have X drives at 1.8A and he sells the complete 12mm module with the driver attached and preset with the G2 lens. So no worry of setting it yourself.
At 1.8A there's no need of sinking the driver if you choose.
Give a look at Lifetime17's already pre made plug and play hosts. You just connect the 2 wires from Dtr's module and slide it in his customed heat sinked host of your choice.
The x drive's will run on 2 18650's..

Good advice, 1 watt of 520 is awesome. He'll be a very happy camper.

 

[BowtieGuy]

Hey Jon, it looks like you've done your homework and picked some good components/sources for your build!
Since you are going to be using Survival Lasers S4X host for your build, I thought you might be able to use this -Link-, it's a build tutorial made by member Garoq (owner of Survival Lasers),using the S4X.
He isn't using the same diode, but the proceedure would be similar to what you are going to be doing.

Good luck with your new build! :beer:

 

[BobMc]

Hey Jon, it looks like you've done your homework and picked some good components/sources for your build!
Since you are going to be using Survival Lasers S4X host for your build, I thought you might be able to use this -Link-, it's a build tutorial made by member Garoq (owner of Survival Lasers),using the S4X.
He isn't using the same diode, but the proceedure would be similar to what you are going to be doing.

Good luck with your new build! :beer:

Nice! Good help. :gj:

 

[BowtieGuy]

Thanks Bob, you guys have been giving the real help here, but some pictures are always a plus . :yh:

 

[BobMc]

Thanks Bob, you guys have been giving the real help here, but some pictures are always a plus . :yh:

Your welcome;. :wave:

 

[Jon]

Hey Jon, it looks like you've done your homework and picked some good components/sources for your build!
Since you are going to be using Survival Lasers S4X host for your build, I thought you might be able to use this -Link-, it's a build tutorial made by member Garoq (owner of Survival Lasers),using the S4X.
He isn't using the same diode, but the procedure would be similar to what you are going to be doing.

Good luck with your new build! :beer:

Thank you so much for linking me to that guide that was exactly what I was looking for and brought to my attention the fact I didn't consider using a blank battery contact board. My process should be the same other than the fact the x-drive will already be connected to the diode reducing a step. As far as the power goes I didn't realize there isn't much of a difference between 1W and 1.3W and since 1.3W would ruin the diode over time 1W seems perfectly fine. So the half module with the driver at 1.8A on DTR's website appears to be the way to go for 1W. I'm assuming the 1.8A driver putting out 1W in that host with the long heat sink is able to have run times of at least a few minutes on. As far as the lens goes dden mentioned to use a 2 element lens over the G-2, would anyone care to explain the reasoning for it?

 

[DTR]

The difference between the units listed as 1W and 1.3W are just the lens. The two element lens passes about 20% less power than the G-2 hence the lower rating for the complete units with driver. These are set to 2.2A unless otherwise requested. Currently they are using the blackbuck 3 since the SXD is not available which can also run continuously at this current with no heatsinking in the back of the module so the only duty cycle you will have to worry about is the for the module based on the host/heatsinking that is used for it.:beer: