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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

My Dominator has died

Joined
Feb 25, 2009
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Yesterday it was working perfectly, but when I tried to use it again today, it just won't switch on anymore. I have tested the switch, and it works, the batteries are charged.

Here's a video for proof:
(EDIT: I removed the video because the problem has been solved)

Just in case, here's what I did NOT do:

- I did NOT reverse the polarity of the batteries (they are clearly distinguishable)
- I did NOT touch the diode
- I did NOT leave the laser on for too long (the longest time I have ever kept it on is 30 seconds)
- I did NOT drop the laser, NOR did I subject it to any kind of blunt force
- I did NOT try it with discharged batteries (to be sure of that, I charged the batteries just before recording the video)
 
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my first thought


you didnt by chance touch the spring on the tail cap to both the battery - contact and the host by any chance? another member killed their diode this way.

there are lots of things it could be, seems you have ruled out the tailcap and probably the batteries, as well as polarity reversal. getting to the driver to test it's output will be a PITA, and the DominatoRs must be taken apart a particular way to avoid tearing out the wire leads or twisting them off.

if you are lucky the problem is just a loose connection. less lucky, you will need a new driver, even less lucky you will need a new diode. worst, both diode and driver though this is probably not the case

If it is the diode and you have to replace it, consider adding a module back from DTR as seen here, or wait for him to come out with a copper one. I think they would benefit the DominatoR greatly, I plan on one when I replace the diode on mine, though I'll be using one of the new 9mm diodes, the 445 or 520, have not decided yet

http://laserpointerforums.com/f42/best-thermal-pathway-heatsinks-88487.html
 
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A few tips to troubleshoot:

1. What current is read at the tailcap?
2. Test the driver out with a test load.
3. Test the diode with a bench power supply.

Steps 2 and 3 will probably void the warranty, so you should contact Blord first. :)
 
Joined
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you didnt by chance touch the spring on the tail cap to both the battery - contact and the host by any chance? another member killed their diode this way.
Huh? Isn't that what the switch normally does?
It has a spring in the center and a metallic ring that touches the host. When the switch is open, the spring and the ring are isolated from one another. When the switch is closed, they come in contact, so that the spring contacts both the host and the negative pole of the battery. Then, the answer to your question would be "Yes, every time I pushed the switch to activate the laser."
1. What current is read at the tailcap?
I only have an analog tester, so it's not very precise, but it reads about 5 mA.
 
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I only have an analog tester, so it's not very precise, but it reads about 5 mA.

Seems like the diode is blown unfortunately.

A very low current reading (but not zero) may indicate an open circuit at the diode side (blown) but the driver is consuming some parasitic current.
 

DTR

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Not sure what driver he is using but it drawing 5mA or so sounds like what the X-drive draws when it has been blown with reverse current. Any chance the batteries were ever put in backwards?

When that is done with the X-drive it does not kill the diode but the driver would need to be replaced. Not that expensive of a fix but I am not sure if that is the driver he is using.

If it is an X-drive you can confirm by looking at the 8 pin chip it will have a small circular burn mark in the lower corner. It is the most common damage I see the 9mm modules with X-drive take but the diode always survives which is good. It will look like this.
3ymi.jpg
 
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oh yeah duh. clearly I was confused and thinking of some other type of short maybe.

@ Op: you can imbed the youtube vid directly here to avoid making anyone go there. there is a little youtube link insrt tool here, simply copy and paste just the part of the youtube link that comes after v=

for example:



I have a dominator semi- taken apart, give me a sec to post driver pics. did yours have low- med- high- and strobe mode or anything like that? if not then there is a good chance the pic I post is like yours

Here we go, some type of buck driver, can anyone I.D.? It has small pieces of what appears to be aluminum thermal pasted on to provide extra heatsinking and brace it against the battery board to ensure it would not come loose in the pill, though it is so well thermal pasted to the pill that I worry if I tried to pry it off it may break

 
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Joined
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Not sure what driver he is using but it drawing 5mA or so sounds like what the X-drive draws when it has been blown with reverse current. Any chance the batteries were ever put in backwards?
No. With the batteries I have, the positive end is marked with a notch, all around the battery, that is absent at the other end. And the tailcap spring is clearly supposed to touch the negative end of the batteries, so that's how I always put them.
did yours have low- med- high- and strobe mode or anything like that? if not then there is a good chance the pic I post is like yours
My driver had only on and off.
@ Op: you can imbed the youtube vid directly here to avoid making anyone go there. there is a little youtube link insrt tool here, simply copy and paste just the part of the youtube link that comes after v=
Thanks for the tip, I edited the message accordingly.
 
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Spring is supposed to touch the battery yes BUT its not good to touch the spring to the battery and laser host while screwing it on. It causes a quick jolt of power and tends to fry everyteverything everything in its path. Reread what was said, we know what we are talking about
 

DTR

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Here we go, some type of buck driver, can anyone I.D.?

Yea that is a FMT iDRV3 Buck driver. There were issues with the cap on the first batch maybe 50 drivers but he sent out replacement caps for all the affected ones unless whoever had it forgot to install it. Other than that it is a solid driver.;)
 
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How many volts of power would a spring create?:san:

[/trollish]

On a less joking note, make sure other members of the household, or even friends, don't have unattended access. They might not realize that it is a custom piece and might insert the battery in backwards, thinking that the worst that could happen is that it needs the battery turned around.
 
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Anyway, I PM'd Blord and he told me to ship the head of the laser back to him, so he'll make the necessary repairs and send it back to me. I made the shipment, and now I only have to wait.
 
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its not good to touch the spring to the battery and laser host while screwing it on.

But that is electrically the same thing as flipping the switch. If flipping the switch won't damage anything, then shorting the switch won't either.
 

ru124t

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I was thinking the same thing cyparagon. I do know that batteries fresh out of the charger sometimes are a little overcharged. I usually wait 5 or 10 minutes after I take them out to put them in a laser. I read that somewhere maybe it is wrong but if not maybe this is what is happening. Anybody know more info on what I am saying?
 




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