FREE DIY open source BOOST driver!!! Tested & working!!

You surely how to produce them en masse !

rhd said:

Yes sir:
CQG S1 World's thinest CREE XP-G R3 1xAAA EDC Flashlight_XPG/XPE Flashlights_Flashlights_Electronics Wholesale online

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Wow, nice.
That thing almost looks smaller than my Trustfire XP-E F23, and maybe lighter*. :undecided:

Check the LPM vid:



*will weigh later today

Ash said:

Wow, nice.
That thing almost looks smaller than my Trustfire XP-E F23, and maybe lighter*. :undecided:

Check the LPM vid:



*will weigh later today

Click to expand...

Lol, it is SUBSTANTIALLY smaller and lighter. Different ballpark completely.

Yeah its way smaller then the F23:

Here is a comparison video i did along time ago of pretty much most of the smallest 10440 that are known around the forum:

Removed Video...........

There is No Comparison. You cant get any smaller unless you shorten it lengthwise.

The 14500 version that i have of this host is pretty much the same size of the F-23.:crackup:

lazeerer said:

Yeah its way smaller then the F23:

Here is a comparison video i did along time ago of pretty much most of the smallest 10440 that are known around the forum:

Skip to 3 Minutes:

There is No Comparison. You cant get any smaller unless you shorten it lengthwise.

The 14500 version that i have of this host is pretty much the same size of the F-23.:crackup:

Click to expand...

What driver is that using to get it to pulse?

I know everyone was real jazzed about adding OVP, but I'm really having an issue with grafting it onto this board the way we have (instead of creating a second fork that gets independently tested). Specifically, I don't understand why R4 isn't going to screw up our FB pin's reading.

Two issues I have:

1) We're placing R4 between (R1,R2) and (GND). So at the very least, isn't this going to throw off current setting?
2) The layout also creates a much longer path between the FB and the GND pins. In most layout tips I've read, this route is usually minimize. Here we're going from the GND side of the current setting resistors, back to the GND through-hold, onto the other side of the board, over to the vias under the IC, back up, and to the GND pin. This seems like a long route.

I'm sure I'm missing something here because I know a lot of eyes have cracked away at this. But it just doesn't seem right to me. I don't have the actual OVP board in front of me, so I don't know any of this to be an issue. But conceptually, this is bugging me.

Are we just counting on R4 not to drop any (much) voltage, since the mass of current won't be flowing over it?

EDIT: Here's a render, with my understanding of the new FB route on it. (Red for top of board, Cyan for bottom)

Ah ok cool, thanks! Looks pretty sweet.

rhd said:

Lol, it is SUBSTANTIALLY smaller and lighter. Different ballpark completely.

Click to expand...

Yeah,.. Mine is Stainless Steel and weighs more than 50grams.
But, at least at 600mW it doesn't get very hot, but the 10440 doesn't last very long at that power. :undecided:

Personally, I know what powersource I will be using with this driver, so I don't feel a need for OVP. :yabbem:

rhd said:

I know everyone was real jazzed about adding OVP, but I'm really having an issue with grafting it onto this board the way we have (instead of creating a second fork that gets independently tested). Specifically, I don't understand why R4 isn't going to screw up our FB pin's reading.

Two issues I have:

1) We're placing R4 between (R1,R2) and (GND). So at the very least, isn't this going to throw off current setting?
2) The layout also creates a much longer path between the FB and the GND pins. In most layout tips I've read, this route is usually minimize. Here we're going from the GND side of the current setting resistors, back to the GND through-hold, onto the other side of the board, over to the vias under the IC, back up, and to the GND pin. This seems like a long route.

I'm sure I'm missing something here because I know a lot of eyes have cracked away at this. But it just doesn't seem right to me. I don't have the actual OVP board in front of me, so I don't know any of this to be an issue. But conceptually, this is bugging me.

Are we just counting on R4 not to drop any (much) voltage, since the mass of current won't be flowing over it?

EDIT: Here's a render, with my understanding of the new FB route on it. (Red for top of board, Cyan for bottom)

Click to expand...

R4 has basically zero current going across it, so it's going to drop basically none of the feedback voltage. The FB pin is already a high impedance input, adding 100 ohms won't do anything to it

As far as I know, you don't have to worry about the ground side of the FB path being a bit long because it is a large plane across the board not skinny little trace. (not completely sure though)

I'm still going to use the non-ovp design in my builds though. I think it just adds unnecessary crowding and complexity to the board. I don't see why I would need it, I always use actual soldered wires not alligator clips. I highly doubt I would ever apply power without a load connected.

well on a brighter note, I would like to say good luck to everyone trying to build/sell these boost drivers, and also to everyone who is trying to learn more about all there different driver options.

geekypyro21 said:

well on a brighter note, I would like to say good luck to everyone trying to build/sell these boost drivers, and also to everyone who is trying to learn more about all there different driver options.

Click to expand...

speaking of selling.

Once the boards arrive (i'm really hoping for tomorrow) I'll probably do a presale on these drivers.
I don't really have the ~$500 laying around for the parts.
I'm waiting for the boards to arrive first though, as i know Mouser will have my order to me in 3 days, but the PCB orders can vary anywhere from 2 weeks to a month.


I also placed an order for an additional 300 boards.

This first batch is for 100 boards but i think we'll run through them fast, so i wanna get a jump on the second batch.

How much are you planning on selling them for Moh?

I think they're going to be around $12.

adding up the cost, each driver will cost $6.34
That's with ordering all the parts from Mouser.
The LM3140 is about $1 cheaper on the future electronics site, but i know nothing about them. Do they ship from the US?

Ben had wanted me to sell them for $10, but $3.64 to assemble, clean, package, and ship them just wouldn't be worth the time and effort for me.

What will probably happen is they will be on my site for a higher price, and then they're gonna pop up here in batches for much cheaper prices, kind of like my kits are $40 on the site and then they pop up here for $30 all the time.

Future Electronics is great. I've only ever used them for the LM3410s, but they were my source for most of the ICs I used in testing this driver (beyond the first 2 or 3)

I'm curious to know what current you're going to set them for?

I'm finding that practically speaking, they need heatsinking above 1A. I'm also finding that I don't really like them above 1.2A, even though I've had some luck at 1.4A. It definitely seems like the 1.2 to 1.4A range is the range in which you need some luck. I wouldn't have thought there would be variability from driver to driver, but I've had some 1.4A set drivers that just can't do it even when heatsinked. I also suspect that at 1.4A, they'll start to REALLY struggle when supply voltage sags.

I can tell you what my build approach will be going forward, and that's basically to use these in singles for small builds, set at 1A, heatsinked to whatever I have available to heatsink them to. For slightly larger high powered builds I'll use two set to ~900mA each.

I'll have to look and see which resistor I got.
I know that 1.2A was the max that I went to when picking the resistors, just can't remember the values.

Hey Moh...

Are you also planning to sell Driver Kits... Just the board
and unmounted parts for the members that might want
to roll their own...:thinking:

rhd said:

I'm finding that practically speaking, they need heatsinking above 1A. I'm also finding that I don't really like them above 1.2A, even though I've had some luck at 1.4A. It definitely seems like the 1.2 to 1.4A range is the range in which you need some luck. I wouldn't have thought there would be variability from driver to driver, but I've had some 1.4A set drivers that just can't do it even when heatsinked. I also suspect that at 1.4A, they'll start to REALLY struggle when supply voltage sags.

Click to expand...

Welcome to my world....


Jerry

You can contact us at any time on our Website: J.BAUER Electronics