Oh that's a pretty darn good price for a driver. The only thing I would fear with using LED drivers are the current fluctuations, but I searched around and many people did it, I guess I will try my luck.
Today I printed new lids for the pill and the tailcap as I decided to not use the silicone lids yet,
provided originally by Sinner.
Even the printed lid allows me to fix the ground to the host easier, or allows easier dismantling
later on when needed.
As a wire to the host I chose a soldering iron head which is 1.25mm thick of full copper.
I am also thinking about how to finish the tail button with the spring.
The easiest way would be to use a very thin metal sheet that could be fixed
with the switch's fixing ring to the tail,
and a weak spring could be soldered to it then simply glued from the big button side.
I try finding some thin steel or copper sheet for that.
For keeping the tail spring and big button in place, I decided to press fit and glue
a printed 2x3mm wide o-ring.
This I printed from a luminescent material so at least it gives some glow in the dark
I have ordered the switch finally so it on the way.
Now I need to decide only which diode and driver to put into the host.
Most possibly it will be a 465nm 4W diode.
The host arrived today, thanks, Hussain!
It is beautiful and a nice base for my 462 project.
I have already used the X-boost driver for my M140. Re-set it from 1.1A to 1.5A.
Works flawless, but only ~30 seconds, then it starts flickering.
I assume it can be the inbuilt heat protection. Can anybody, using this driver (X-boost micro v7)
assure me that the flickering is normal in case of possible overheating?
The other issue is the tailcap of the Sinner host.
Can possibly anybody having the same host give me a clue what kind of switch should I build
into and how? I see there is a thread in the hole, is there any kinda threaded switch or
what is the intention behind this.
Also I am thinking about that what will keep the tail button in the place (fix it to the host's tail)?
I am sure I find a solution to this but it would be better to see someone's tailcap so the
solution is nice and elegant. I suppose Sinner did know well why he built it like that...
Hi icah93, Sorry about the delayed response. These tailcaps use Judco 10A switches linked below. https://www.digikey.com/products/en?mpart=40-4675-00&v=78
Unforutunately there's no elegant solutions to this particular tailcap design and lot's of two-part epoxying needs to be done. good luck!
EDIT: looks like you've already figured it out. Again, sorry about the late reply. You can email me at contact(at)sinnercustoms(dot)com at any time.
Sinner, it is great to hear from you after so much time. Many of us wish you were still making the awesome hosts that you did for us all. I am out of reps or I would give you some. I'll come back and rep you later.
The switch finally arrived, so I finish the tailcap soon.
However, the thread diameter of the switch is smaller than the thread in the tail piece, so I am a bit sad about it
because I was nearly sure that the two threads match.
Fortunately, the switch can be fixed with the fixing ring so it is only a minor problem.
Still, I am unsure why Sinner created a thread in the tail piece if nothing can match it? (I assume all the suitable Judco switches have the same thread diameter)
The N465 diode from Jordan is on the way and should arrive in a few days,
so I expect the build to get finished by the next week.
I had to cut a door into the printed cylinder so the switch's wires fit into the tail head.
Instead of the soldering iron head "washer" solution rather I drilled a hole into the head then
tightened the screw and soldered the wire into it, so the "classic" solution.
I cut the inside plastic rod from the tail button, and used a spring together with the
previously printed o-ring which I glued into the head, as planned.
The battery contact side has simply been epoxied into the head.
Kudos to you icah93, you nailed it despite of the quirks in this particular tailcap design, I later updated it to a reverse clicky and a rubber boot on the Cyp-IIIb hosts and never had any issues with the KAN28 switches.
Paul, as much as I loved making them my work schedule doesn't allow much of a hobby time lately. I have had several ideas for new hosts and i might eventually build something. I'm glad the community is still thriving, I appreciate you asking :thanks: