Welcome to Laser Pointer Forums - discuss green laser pointers, blue laser pointers, and all types of lasers

Buy Site Supporter Role (remove some ads) | LPF Donations

Links below open in new window

FrozenGate by Avery

WTS: Sinner's "Secret Weapon" Host, X-Boost Driver

What current were you running them at Paul? Ive built quite a few mits at 1.4 - 1.5 A and a couple of 700s at 1.4 A. The mits I kept degraded down to 850 mW from 1.4 W over a few years and was probably due to the open can. Cant say about the 700s as they were custom builds, but I didnt receive any complaints? :beer:

You know I don't remember. The two I built and are still working are both over 1 watt. Don't use them as much because of the divergence issue. I measured one just to see and it is 1040 mW. IDK if the open can causes degradation over many years of use. I've only had this one for 3 1/2 years. I know the two Oclaros I built died early deaths at currents I have the Mits at. :thinking:
 





I only have one high power red, it's a Mits. 500mW in a Sinner host (Lil Dragon) , running at 1.4A, and doing 1.1W -1.2W output, or at least it was!
This thread has me wondering how it's holding up after all these years, like Paul, I don't use this much because of the beam quality. It's 4yrs old now; I'll check it out on my LPM this afternoon and report back with a health check. :)
 
Ha! I have that same build in a sinner's Cyprus II copper host. That was my first build with this diode. They were a bit more expensive than they are now. It is still going strong, though.
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. Definitely interested in your measurements Bowtie, Id like to see how your diode has held up. In actual fact my mits spent most of its time in a draw and it probably had a total of an hour of run time. ;) :beer:

P.S - Just saw your build thread, very nicely done!
 
Last edited:
I just re-checked my old Mits. build, and as you can see, it's as close to exactly the same as you can get. (see the original in my sig.)
I'm pretty surprised that it hasn't degraded at all in over 4yrs., although it has had very little use, I'd estimate < 1 hr. total on the diode.

@Paul - That was my first build with that diode also!

@grainde - Mine has been sitting in a drawer also, I've got it in one of those old green plastic boxes that Jetlasers used to ship their lasers in.

Thanks, glad you liked the build, it was one of my first! :yh:


JWMSBVA.jpg
 
Oh my that's one resilient diode. But I don't get why you expected it to degrade overtime if you weren't using it?

I just re-checked my old Mits. build, and as you can see, it's as close to exactly the same as you can get. (see the original in my sig.)
I'm pretty surprised that it hasn't degraded at all in over 4yrs., although it has had very little use, I'd estimate < 1 hr. total on the diode.

@Paul - That was my first build with that diode also!

@grainde - Mine has been sitting in a drawer also, I've got it in one of those old green plastic boxes that Jetlasers used to ship their lasers in.

Thanks, glad you liked the build, it was one of my first! :yh:


JWMSBVA.jpg
 
It wasn't so much as I was expecting it, as it was that it wouldn't surprise me if it had.
 
Mine is putting out basically the same power it had when I first built it. I wouldn't expect it to degrade as this diode wasn't decanned. It is built without a can.
 
The host arrived today, thanks, H!
It is beautiful and a nice base for my 462 project.

I have already used the X-boost driver for my M140. Re-set it from 1.1A to 1.5A.
Works flawless, but only ~30 seconds, then it starts flickering.
I assume it can be the inbuilt heat protection. Can anybody, using this driver (X-boost micro v7)
assure me that the flickering is normal in case of possible overheating?

The other issue is the tailcap of the Sinner host.
Can possibly anybody having the same host give me a clue what kind of switch should I build
into and how? I see there is a thread in the hole, is there any kinda threaded switch or
what is the intention behind this.
Also I am thinking about that what will keep the tail button in the place (fix it to the host's tail)?

I am sure I find a solution to this but it would be better to see someone's tailcap so the
solution is nice and elegant. I suppose Sinner did know well why he built it like that...
 

Attachments

  • full1.jpg
    full1.jpg
    167.6 KB · Views: 32
  • tail11.jpg
    tail11.jpg
    147.7 KB · Views: 22
  • tail21.jpg
    tail21.jpg
    134.8 KB · Views: 20
Last edited:
In the meantime I checked the thread diameter and it is 9mm.
Unfortunately I could not find a single 9mm thread push button on the market so I am really lost.

Normally I would think that there should be mounted a threaded switch in the hole then a spring glued
between the inner side of the tail piece and the big aluminium tailcap.
This way the spring would keep the aluminium tailcap in place...
 
Found Judco 10A switch which should fit the thread in the host.
Selling @Digikey, part number: 512PB-ND, cost around 2USD.
BUT the shipping is ultra expensive, around 50USD to EU, that is unacceptable.
IF anybody would send me one for a reasonable shipping fee I would be grateful.
Otherwise I have to fit a switch with a smaller diameter (7mm) and that would
not be the nice solution I was hoping for.
PLS, somebody :-)
 
The switch is inside the tail cap that screws onto the battery tube. It has a large spring contact on it for the battery, but the switch is inside and I can't take that apart without damaging it. Sorry.
 
No problem, thanks.
With that Judco switch I think I can easily finish the tail cap assuming that the threads inside fit the switch.
It would be good to know it for sure before ordering the switch for much money.
I contacted Sinner maybe he reads my pm and helps.
 
Hi Robert,

I honestly do not know much about choosing parts. This host was way too advanced for me. Hopefully someone here will be able to help out in choosing parts. Keep me updated and if there is something else I can help with let me know, but hopefully sinner or someone else here will get back to you with answers.
 
Sure, thanks.

BTW if you do decide to get it the switch you were talking about, and they want to charge you $50 to ship it from the US to Hungary, let me know and maybe I can help you out by buying it and shipping it to you in a small envelope which should cost much less. That is if the shipping domestically is free or cheap enough that you would save money.

Good luck
 


Back
Top