WTB: 2+Watt Laser with forward-side clicky

[Jaxz]

Hi, currrently my Jayrob's kit not able to perform up to expectations despite giving it 1 year of chance to perform, very disappointed with its output power. Looking forward to add on to my laser collection checking out if anyone is able to D.I.Y the laser and post it to my country. Here are the required specs:



Minimum Output power after 5mins of constant burning = 1.8 - 1.9 Watts. (Requirement not set in stone. Let me know if this is realistically possible or not)
Peak Output Power = Not concern
Configuration = 2x 32600s. (Will get batteries myself)
Lens = 405-G-1
Diode = 445 M140
Module = 12mm Copper Module
Driver = Maker to recommend, with Driver configured, and current set
Heatsink = Custom Copper Heatsink
Host = with Side Button Forward Clicky. (NO Rear on/off button). Maker to recommend
Safety = Key switch tail cap mod
Wires = Silicon Wires + Heat Shrinking Tubes required. Quick Connector for between the Driver and the Host
Construction Fee = Maker to quote, will consider price.
Shipping with tracking and bubble Wrap to my country = Maker to quote



I welcome different suorces of quotes. Let me know, thank you very much.

 

[rhd]

....do you actually have a reason for all of those obscure "specs" ?

Like: "Quick Connector for between the Driver and the Host"
- Do you plan to be removing the driver from the host frequently ?

Or: "1/2 inch Copper Module"
- Why do you want the diode pressed into a non-standard module size, if that module is just going to be sitting inside a larger copper heatsink anyway?

Or: "Diode = 445 XJ-A140"
- Why wouldn't an A145 diode work? Or an M140 diode? Or an M150 diode? What's your rationale here?

Or: "Silicon Wires"
- Why would you, as the end user, care? Silicon wires are great because they make the build easier to accomplish due to their flexibility. But it's not exactly like non-silicon wires won't hold up to the heat or current found in a 2W laser build. If your builder is competent and happy to use thick non-silicon traditional wires, what difference does that make to you?

IMO, or perhaps IMG (In My Gut), you either have some incredibly specific task with requirements that frankly seem difficult to imagine (where would an A140 diode work, but not an M140?), or you're just making up "specs" so that it doesn't look so much like you basically just want to "burn crap".

 

[HaloBlu]

The "Quick Connector" & "1/2 inch Copper Module" could be explained if he has or plans to create other hosts with a 1/2 hole. I'm thinking he doesn't realize its not necessary to specify "XJ-A140". I can see asking for m140 in light of recent threads.
The "silicon wires" you could chalk up to perfectionist & perhaps attempting to get a competent builder (not that you need silicon to be competent). I can see just like the idea silicon wire.
I feel a long list might just be easier when there is bit of a language barrier. He might not mean to come off sounding demanding. I haven't read any of his other posts tho.

 

[Jaxz]

Hi, English is not my fort, I didn't know I sound demanding but due to disappointment with my 2D Magkit, the money I paid but I did not get the performance I asked, so sorry if I sound demanding I don't mean it thanks for pointing out. I just don't want to suffer another disappointment again. I owned both Kenometer Pro and nospin LPM, and I owned 2 OEM thermopiles so there couldn't be wrong in the readings. Don't tell me I am very unlucky to get both my OEM thermopiles damage. When I say I am not very satisfied with my current 2D Magkit for the price paid (I guess probably due to various makers involved in the process), I am not, I hope I make myself very clear. Many thanks.

Thanks Haloblu for understanding, and provide the link for me to read up on the M140. I am new to it.



@rhd
Let me answer you one by one

1) The Quick Connector Concept is given by DTR to me when he proposed to repair my damage Maglite 2D. I don't mean my Maglite 2D arrived damage but the driver and the diode just wasn't working that time. In the end DTR was engaged for help as he bothers to reply my pm's. The problem was diagnosed and I paid the money and got new components from DTR, this time DTR gave heat shrinking tubings, also he provided dummy-proof solution. With the quick connector, I could easily disassemble the damage parts from my Maglite and installed the new components and easily reassembled them back. This is my rationale. My Laser unit needs to be friendly for easy repairs.

2) The Module holds both the Laser Diode and the G-1 Lens. Without the Module, you don't expect me to press fit my diode into my Copper Heat Sink and damage it. How am I suppose to take out my diode when it dies again? I don't expect to throw away my copper heatsink and get new ones just beacuse my diode is permenetly pressed into the heatsink. Also I don't want to have any screw threads on the Heatsink to host my G-1. I use the focus function a lot and we all know copper is a soft material. Prolong and constant usage of screwing in and screwing out, I don't want damage my copper heatsink in the long run. I don't expect to buy another copper heatsink just because the screw thread are torn and it can no longer hold my G-1 lens. My stand is simple. Hope you understand what I mean. Thank you very much.

3) I owned a A140 diode, but I don't know what or how good is the so called M140, I don't have it. May I know is there any difference between the two? Is it better in terms of performance as compared to the A140? Is it more cost effective? What is the life-span? I don't know anything about it. Got to explain to me if want to counter-propose. If M140 is better than A140, then I will definately choose M140. Thanks.

4) It makes a difference to me because I expect to self-repair and change the driver and my diode as and when my driver and diode dies. I did that previously with my Magkit when my driver and diode didn't last. IF I get stiff low quality wires, I am going to end up changing more components unnecessarily. I had the damage Magkit verified with Jay himself and DTR as I sent photos to them but I realised it was my responsibility to get it repaired in the end. The Diode was from Daguin, but the driver was from Jay. Luckily Jay used good quality wires for the host and I self installed the new components I got from DTR very easily. Presently, my Magkit is doing well and it functions fully for almost a year of burning. I appreciate my laser however I want an even higher performance burner now as I am not satisfied with my current Magkit. I don't even know when I need to repair my kit again for I am not sure how long my diode will last this time but I know the previous one didn't last one minute of usage. Can you gurrantee that rhd that I won't need to self-repair in the future? What if I need to self-change the diode once more on my Magkit? Anyway I just don't know why is the output power so low for the amount of money I spend on it. Mind you, 1400mW is very unacceptable for me for the price paid. I don't blame DTR for he is just being fair, he told me the problem for the low output power could be on the diode, but he don't cherry-pick diodes for his customers. I don't blame him, he is a nice person and helped to trouble-shoot what's previously wrong with my kit and diagnose the problem, I guess I am just unlucky that I got a lousy diode. That is the problem I have when I got different suppliers for my D.I.Y build. Jayrob only build's the host but he doesn't provide the diode. This leads to my new requirement. From my bad experience, hopfully I can get only one person to make my laser unit this time.

5) Last sentence from you, sorry please forgive my bad english I don't understand what you had written. I don't understand your slang so you have to break it down simpler for me. Anyway the tone of your words don't sounds positive to me anyway, so I am going to ignore your last sentence I am not going to reply on it. Thanks.




p.s., I welcome different proposal from different Makers, I will give my considerations. Thank you very much.

 

[rhd]

Interesting - Ok, I was perhaps too critical. It seems like you have reasons for most of your request, even though I still don't quite understand all of them.

1) I wouldn't have thought a quick-connector system wise, on account of the potential for imperfect connections when components aren't soldered together permanently. But if DTR did it, I'm sure there was a logical rationale. I'm also not quite understanding how it would make repairs easier, since swapping in a new part would still require soldering a "quick connector" onto that new part first (so why not just solder a new part on directly, if you'll be soldering *something* anyway?). But regardless, I now understand that you did have a rationale for your request - Even if I don't quite understand it.

2) Why not go with a copper 12mm module, instead of asking someone to create a 1/2 inch version instead? 1/2 inch is so close to 12mm too, that I can't understand what practical difference an extra 0.7 mm of diameter to the module will make. I can't see this having any thermal benefit, since it just means the hole in your heatsink needs to be ever so slightly larger. If your objective is to make repairs easier, I'd think you'd want a standard module size, no?

3) It USED TO be somewhat accepted that all of the 445 diodes were more or less the same. Perhaps A140 was better than A130. But A145 would probably be no different (neither better nor worse) than A140. However, there is a lot of suggestion emerging recently that M140 is higher powered than A140.

4) If you're doing self-repairs, you understand this stuff. Why not do your own DIY build from scratch? Getting a host from Jayrob and a diode from someone else isn't your problem. I mean, most of the builders you would pay to put this together for you, probably do EXACTLY that. They'd buy the diode for your build from DTR, the host from Jayrob, etc. The host doesn't dictate anything to do with the burning power (unless of course it's an inappropriate host or something like that). You've already got the best lens you could be using (the G1), so why don't you just put together a build, running at whatever current you want?

Your power is really a function of:
A) The diode and/or your luck
B) The current you run it at

So buy a few diodes from someone like DTR, test two or three yourself to identify the most efficient, and then run it at the highest power it will handle. It sounds like you're sophisticated and knowledgable enough to build this stuff, so what benefit is there to getting someone else to do it? I don't know many builders who would sit there and bin their diodes to give you their best one (unless of course you were paying them for 3 or 4 diodes, and/or indemnifying them for deaths)

 

[Jaxz]

4) Thanks bro, problem is just that, I stay in small apartment flat in my country, I don't got the luxury of space. My house not that large to keep many sophiscated equipments especially if your guys talks about DC-power supply, etc. I do owned a Fluke Meter but because it is small and portable and it is something I use constantly for work. However talking about other bulky electronic/electrical equipments is not really a feasible choice for me. Plus, I don't manufacture Lasers like DTR and sell them, it's not so cost effective for me...

Next, I'm still figuring out what could have previously caused my diode to have such a short life span. I have been wondering could it be caused by the environment (Humindity and temperature of our climate) or worksmanship. Unfortunately I don't own an air-condition in my house. I have done soldering before but according to Jay, the diode could have got over heated during installation so that's why it didn't last. After hearing this I didn't want to do DIY any longer cuz I feel it is a waste of diodes if environment is the cause for such problems. I mean, I didn't even do anything I just get the sodler melted and stick the leads on it that's it, but the diode just got burned out. I don't get it. Or I could be I accidentally touch the case pins with my sodler during assembly, but it's just a slight touch...

I could probably lack certain necessary setups for such delicated job. I probably need to find out how it is done correctly manually. I don't got extra help in the house to hold both diode and wire in stable position probably that's the reason why I didn't do a good job. I am doing this alone. If the setup requires space in the house, then I need to consider carefully whether or not I need to get it since it might not be cost effective for me as I don't manufacture Laser to sell...

But thanks for understanding bro.

1) DTR probably did it out of considerations so I have convenience and absolutely no soldering required for the reassembly. Totally dummy-proof

2) I copied this specification out from Jayrob's Magkit thread at te LAser Pro Shop Section. In his thread he has an option for his customers to use a 1/2" Copper module instead of an Aixiz module. There must be a reason why Jayrob choose this for his Magkit. I copied down this specification instead of asking for Aixiz again because I want to minimise the possibility of my diode loosing unecessary power due to heat. If Aixiz is not good enough, I wanna try the copper version, that's what I thought. Lmk your advise.

3) Yes I accept your explanation. If these diodes tend to output a more constant performance, I will choose M140 over A140instead. Thanks for advise.



I will find out what tools and equipments are necessary for DIY job, would appreciate if you can advise, thank you.

 

[rhd]

Interesting -

If anything, I would recommend getting a copper 12mm module, instead of a copper 1/2 inch module. To be perfectly honest, I'm not even familiar with 1/2" copper modules.

The benefit of going with 12mm, is that it's super common. If your objective is easy repair, and simple maintenance, etc, I'd try to grab a 12mm copper module, but not a 1/2 inch one.

 

[Jaxz]

Thank you very much, I will amend the o/p, hopefully this laser can be made

 

[SerpantSlayer]

How am I suppose to take out my diode when it dies again? I don't expect to throw away my copper heatsink and get new ones just beacuse my diode is permenetly pressed into the heatsink.

you can use this to take your old diode out - http://laserpointerforums.com/f64/diode-press-sale-pushes-out-diode-42614.html#post559783

 

[DTR]

1) I wouldn't have thought a quick-connector system wise, on account of the potential for imperfect connections when components aren't soldered together permanently. But if DTR did it, I'm sure there was a logical rationale. I'm also not quite understanding how it would make repairs easier, since swapping in a new part would still require soldering a "quick connector" onto that new part first (so why not just solder a new part on directly, if you'll be soldering *something* anyway?). But regardless, I now understand that you did have a rationale for your request - Even if I don't quite understand it.

3) It USED TO be somewhat accepted that all of the 445 diodes were more or less the same. Perhaps A140 was better than A130. But A145 would probably be no different (neither better nor worse) than A140. However, there is a lot of suggestion emerging recently that M140 is higher powered than A140.

I think there might be a miscommunication. I am not 100% sure which unit I helped him with but I have never used anything but a secure soldered wire between the diode and the driver. I may have used a quick connect between the driver and the battery for him as that would not put the diode at risk of a spike but I would have to see it to know if that is what he is referring to.

Yes even if the M140 continues to test out more efficient that does not guarantee that an individual A140 diode will be less efficient than a M140 diode. Just like the A130's you could get a lower than average efficiency A140 that would be less efficient than a higher average efficient A130. It is just the law of averages. If you got an A140 diode you have a much greater chance of getting a more efficient diode than if you got an A130 but it is not a guarantee. It will become a mute point here soon anyway as anyone that is actually selling diodes out of brand new projectors will have to switch to them anyway as you can't get the A130/A140's anymore.:beer:

 

[Jaxz]

Hi, I didn't know I am sill not clear at my original post but if read carefully, I did mention like what DTR said, between the Driver and the battery, except I mention as between driver and the host. Lmk if that's unclear I will rephrase it

@DTR, I welcome you if you have the time to do this unit for me.