All of them have a boost driver..
I tested all of these except the powerlight...
- With SKU 3762 the head doesn't unscrew.
- I wanted to use SKU 3760 for my Blu Rays, as when i ordered it for the first time, the head did come off, but once i ordered a large quantity, all of them came with the head in one piece with the body.
- The 1120 (and other colors) is a good flashlight. I modded one to a CREE LED, but i'm not gonna use them for a laser. They would offer enough space for a heatsink for an open can tho. The build is good, most of the guts can be used to hold something or mount something.
- SKU 5352 (SAIK) is what i ended up using for my Blu Rays after the host screwup. It's a good flashlight, but there is very little room in the head. I had to redesign my CC boost driver completelly, to make it fit (had to make it double sided).
Also, when you order the SAIK, you can get a mixture of SAIKs and Rominsens. The SAIK is a bit darker in color but they look almost identical. The build is the same.
But...With the SAIK, the gray UltraFire batteries don't fit! With the Rominsen, they do. The SAIK can take a blue TrustFire protected Li-Ion but it's tight. I actually stripped a Ni-MH when trying to push it in - It's also a very good flashlight btw... That's why i even tried a Ni-MH. But the circuit dies with a Li-Ion.
If you can fit all the parts into the tiny room in the head (18mm dia, 26.5mm depth after the PCB), it's also a very nice laser. But you can't use the original guts (for mounting) and battery contact PCB, because they are in a big long chunk of aluminum. You'd have to cut that off just above the PCB, and then you also need to fit a heatsink in there. And you can't fit an entire AixiZ module in there.
The "SAIK" is what i'm using for my Blu Rays now (with heatsinks, that make the AixiZ module fatter), and will be using from now on, as DX obviously cycles manufacturers, and i can't rely on getting unscrewable heads with other models. I asked DX to only ship me the Rominsens only, so the batteries don't get stuck or stripped..
The one thing all of them have in common is the VERY limited room. You have to plan the use of the space down to a fraction of a milimeter and there is no room for error. In fact, the ones where the head does not unscrew have much more room (much more = 3mm more.. At this point 1mm of extra room means a lot to me...), because the threads of the body don't go into the head - it's all one piece. But this also means you can't just screw the module in place.
Oh, and i hope no one gets the idea to use the boost circuits inside to power a laser. Those circuits are completelly unregulated and unfiltered, and blink the LED very rapidly (at the switching frequency). LEDs can take that sort of abuse easily, but LDs can't.
With filtering and a series resistor it is possible to make it work, but the current would change with the LD heat and the battery voltage, meaning you have to drive the LD lower, to make sure it doesn't go over the top. With a full battery, the current would climb at first, with heat, and drop with the battery voltage.
The only thing you can safely do with the internal boost circuit is, put an AMC after it (with or without a bypass resistor, depending on your diode), and drive a red from a single alkaline or Ni-MH (unless it doesn't fit
)...
P.S. Oh, and i also ordered 6 of the UltraFires (with GITD tailcap), that have the same shape as SKU 3762. Ni-MHs and Li-Ions don't fit in there AT ALL. It's worse, than with the SAIK. I ordered them with express shipping, and i'll have to return them all...
The cheap ones have large battery holes, but you never know if the model you get will unscrew at the head or not.
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