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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Where do I start? Looking for a programmable show...

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LFI also works well for just logos, but I'm not so sure about DAC compatibility besides the soundcard DAC.
 





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I am putting shims/blocks under everything- if not some parts, when needing to be swapped out, will require you to turn your PJ upside down. With the Al Plates I cut and drilled myself-

items... Dichro/scannerblock/turning mirror or the laser modules are first attached( in some cases from underneath) to the shim plate then that plate is attached to your base plate. mine are not fancy anodized/aircraft grade Al and all but so far look like they will work and for the cost of one from a laser show parts retailer (@$25) I have plates for all my components and change leftover.

Regular Al fab shops have lots of scrap pieces so as long as you get all the same thickness you can mark the sizes you need on the scraps and for a six-pack they may cut them down to your sizes on thier chop-saw-- I cut one with a hacksaw and that was not the 'WAY'..use or borrow a simple drill press for you holes and cut the threads a by hand- ( taps are cheap at pawn shops-take your 'bolts/screws' and a nut that fits and just match up a tap to the nut) sand away he rough places. spray with flat black paint and no one will be the wiser..

One thing that helped was that all my laser modules and my scanner block required the same base to beam height..

GL ....hak
 
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I see the Reke500 here...

300mw 650nm Red 50mW 532nm Green 150mW 450nm Blue Laser RGB Full Color Animation Laser Light DJ Equipment Auto Sound DMX512 ILDA PC Master Slave Stage Laser Light Projector Reke-500RGB

What else would you need to accomplish my goal with this? Just software and a computer?

Basically just some pretty graphics, text and a logo. Maybe a sound activated light show as well?

Thanks!

Laptop, interface, and software.

For sound mode you don't need anything at all though.
 
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Might be a little shady, considering the c&p text regarding 30s duty cycles in the section after the pictures.

I see the Reke500 here...

300mw 650nm Red 50mW 532nm Green 150mW 450nm Blue Laser RGB Full Color Animation Laser Light DJ Equipment Auto Sound DMX512 ILDA PC Master Slave Stage Laser Light Projector Reke-500RGB

What else would you need to accomplish my goal with this? Just software and a computer?

Basically just some pretty graphics, text and a logo. Maybe a sound activated light show as well?

Thanks!
 

vk2fro

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Sound triggered: put the REKE 500 into sound mode.

For anything else (that you want to show that isnt contained inside the projectors show card), you will need a computer, some software, a DAC and an ILDA cable.

Don't pay a fortune for "ILDA" cables at a laser show shop, go to the local flea market or electronics shop and obtain a 25pin male to female straight through cable (each pin wired directly to its partner on the other end of the cable). If their length is too short, buy several, and join the male end of 1 into the female end of the next, like an extension cord.
 
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The speaker has to be VERY close to the reke btw, the mic is really really bad. Read someone modded theirs to be line in instead.
 

vk2fro

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My cheapy also had this issue - before it blew up, I added in a small microphone amplifier that had about a 3-4x gain. Any higher and it would pick up its own noise and false trigger (e.g. from the galvos)
 

ARG

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The speaker has to be VERY close to the reke btw, the mic is really really bad. Read someone modded theirs to be line in instead.

Are other peoples really that bad? Mine can pick up my laptop speakers on the other side of the room.
 
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Are other peoples really that bad? Mine can pick up my laptop speakers on the other side of the room.

Speaker had to be ~5 inches from the mic, and pointed directly into it. Granted it was late, so the volume was turned down, but even so, yeah, it's pretty bad.

Sensitivity setting knob was turned to the max obviously. If it's turned the other way I doubt a bomb going off would get a reaction.
 
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That diagram above looks more complicated than it is. Really, you're just creating a non-inverting amplifier like this (could be inverting too; it doesn't really matter). Just adjust the two resistors to change the gain (amplification), or use a pot as the feedback resistor (Rf or R2 in the second diagram).

It's a good thing to learn how to use these, because you can make circuits such as correction amps for your DAC, etc. cheaply and easily.
 
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You guys have been a great help so far! It sure seems like,the reke500 is a good starter unit, especially if the price drop happens this week. Then I just need to nail down software, cables and a DAC?
 

vk2fro

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I think the correction amp is only needed for the sound card dac. This type of dac works, but the drivers for the c-media sound card suggested are very flakey under windows 7 (I should know, I'm using one of them as an actual sound card since I blew the motherboard one up). The other dacs (riya, pangolin, etc) do not need the amp.
 
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